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Pearl phono PCBs Group Buy

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Ok, so Ill add some pics of a Pearl I have build for a good friend - the case is from Monacor, and the front plate is custom made out of dark glass. EI-core trafo and 80.000 uF in C-R-C combination is hidden in a external old housing for a B&O motor-steering device for sattelite dish.....
 

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and finnaly the most exiting part - the inside - although it looks a lot like the rest of the pearls that promitheus have facilitated - and thanks a lot for the job Ilias !!! I would never have been able to build such a great sounding RIAA without your effort - not to mention Wayne - Thnx !!

Only thing on my wishlist would be some sort of PCB for MC hi gain, that could be mounted in the box, using the pearls existing PSU and thus give the oppertunity of MC.

Cheers !
Hans
 

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Rated Voltage

FrankDIY said:
Nice job, mine is coming soon too. Pliton has been an error with my transformer. Even if it shows 2x30 volts, the output is in reality 2x39 volts. Now I am trying to get them replaced but it appears they are quicker to sell stuff then giving customer services.


All my Plitron transformers run real high output voltage. They deliver rated volts at rated current.
The 30 volt 50 watt one in my Pearl outputs right at 53 volts dc. Had to use 63 volt Panasonic caps on the input.
Never checked the output ac at the low draw of the Pearl, but dividing 53 volts by 1.4 gives right at 38 volts. So your transformers are right where the average Plitron comes in at.
The single output 300 watt, 36 volt one used in my Zen V4 put out 59 volts at 4 amps per side. Guess at 8 amps load it would have been closer to 52 volts.

George
 
Plitron power transformers are rated at AC RMS. So a rectifed output Voltage will be 1.414 times higher (peak voltage of a sine wave equals RMS times the square root of 2).

A 30 volt winding should produce 42.5 Volts at nominal input. Since inputs vary about 15% the output could be anywhere from 36 to 48 Volts DC.
 
The voltage should always be 30 volts no matter the current drawn.

I don't think that's correct. Most transformers have some internal resistance, and will exhibit voltage drop when load is applied. They don't regulate very well, as a rule. In order to get the specified voltage, you have to draw the specified current.

You may be able to add some static load to reduce the voltage.. e.g. a power resistor across the secondary.. but of course you'll generate more heat.
 
Dark side of the glass...

Thnx Ilias !
It is real glass, but you have to have it cut by a proffessional, as it is very difficult to make holes in glass - although I have heard that it can be done with a drill for rocks, and then you make a small "pond" of moddeling clay around the hole, where you add some water, to act as a cooling, so you are drilling under water....
This glass i rather expensive, so I shaked the moneymaker a little bit, to have it done... but it looks real cool - better IRL than on the pictures ;-)
 

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Any way to make it mount on the Pearl PCB, like a daughter board? I assume it will feed into the MM input, right?

BTW, thanks for the PCBs and parts. My Pearls are up and running, and making beautiful music. Went together without a hitch, worked perfectly first time.

I used a single power transformer feeding both bridges in parallel. I mounted my power supply in an old PC SMPS box, and used a microsoft mouse cable to connect to the Pearls in a separate box. The mouse cable is nice, 4 conductors with overall shield, and very flexible.
 
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