• These commercial threads are for private transactions. diyAudio.com provides these forums for the convenience of our members, but makes no warranty nor assumes any responsibility. We do not vet any members, use of this facility is at your own risk. Customers can post any issues in those threads as long as it is done in a civil manner. All diyAudio rules about conduct apply and will be enforced.

Third GB - MAYA advanced R-2R logarithmic ladded

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hi Pieter,

I do not use any plexyglass. I personally like very much oled colour and I expose display directly on the front panel.
In case you manage to find a proper glass, it will be nice to share here info about glass type.

For power on indication you may use the relay for tube plate delay, or speaker soft on/off in case you do not use them. You may power the led before Maya regulator or after.
Starting with firmware 2.0 Maya will indicate standby by a moving dot in the down right last digit.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Hi Tibi, If you want to expose the oled display as such, you have to make an exact cavity in the front panel for only the oled display. In addition, we need to make a separate hole/cavety for the IR receiver. To get that hole/cavety aligned with the display cavety, I need to telocate the current IR receiver (and unsolder it).

Anyway, I still opt for a plexiglass display filter. I'll post results later. It still takes me few months to complete....

BR Pieter
 
And the bluetooth receiver can be located behind the 10mm thick alu front panel, right?

It might be better to put it behind the windows as well, but that depends on how good your metal case is closed for RF signals.
The alu panel is also blocking the RF signals so it might reduce the working distance.

An option for the plexiglass is a transparent version, and stick solar blocking/tinting film (for car windows) on the back of it it to tint it.
The Oled gives enough light (i have done it with both blue and white Oled), and it still looks good.
 
And the bluetooth receiver can be located behind the 10mm thick alu front panel, right?

Bluetooth module is detachable. You can mount at the back of the pre/amplifier or any other position that is convenable in your design. The single condition is to have 3cm around BLE antenna for optimum reception.
It may stay behind 10cm thick alu front panel as long your enclosure is not full metal (Faraday cage).


Regards,
Tibi
 
FPE Front panel for MAYA GB3

I made a new front panel today in front panel express software, based on the modushop Slim Line 02/350 chassis. The central cavety should fit the OLED display that goes with the third MAYA GB. See PDF and FPE file. You can review it with the free FPE-software from Schaeffer Berlin.

I plan to insert a 3 mm thick plexiglass window at the front side (not from behind!). I have a blue oled screen so I ordered a number of colored transparant pieces of plexiglass 3mm thick: light and dark grey smoked, purple and dark blue (plexiglasstunter.nl). Lets see which one suits best.

The hole on the left is for a Bulgin 22mm button (MPI002/28/d4) as I use these for the power buttons of all my audio equipment. Another hole on the right is for the 'encoder / volume'. I still need to find a place for the select button (SPST-NO). See below.

Looking for help! Concerning this select button: I am still looking for a small (6-8mm diameter, max 10mm) steel/aluminum looking push button that integrates well with the anodized aluminum front of modushop? I don't want to use another big Bulgin button. Maybe you have suggestions/tips for me? I want a button that does not stick out of the front panel (or as little as possible) and which can be mounted in/through the front panel. I include two examples of what I found. Can i use this piezo button as such? Anyone experience with these type of button (it should be SPST Momentary and normally open).
 

Attachments

  • FRONT PANEL EXPRESS FPE PRE_AMP front_80mm_MAYAGB3.JPG
    FRONT PANEL EXPRESS FPE PRE_AMP front_80mm_MAYAGB3.JPG
    58.4 KB · Views: 300
  • FRONT PANEL EXPRESS FPE PRE_AMP front_80mm_MAYAGB3.zip
    931 bytes · Views: 50
  • Piezo button example.JPG
    Piezo button example.JPG
    36.2 KB · Views: 294
  • Push button momentary SPST-NO panel mount.JPG
    Push button momentary SPST-NO panel mount.JPG
    43.3 KB · Views: 301
Tibi, I suppose I can also use another Rotary Encoder that has an integrated tact switch to accommodate MAYA's select function (tact switch). Then we have Encoder and Select in one knob. So I have one button and one hole less in my front panel.

How about this one available at Mouser?
PEC11R-4225K-S0024 Bourns | Mouser Nederland

Which Electrical Characteristics (specs) do I need to account into account? It has 24 pulses per revolution like Maya's encoder. Do the other specs match the one needed for Maya? https://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/0fa5/0900766b80fa5804.pdf

In the end I have to add two capacitors (I see C20 and C21 on your encoder pcb) of 47 nF between common and the two channels? what type of through hole capacitor can I use (type and voltage)?
 

Attachments

  • Preamp overview.jpg
    Preamp overview.jpg
    150.4 KB · Views: 125
  • How a 2mm edge looks like.jpg
    How a 2mm edge looks like.jpg
    55.3 KB · Views: 155
  • Plexy glass window inserted.jpg
    Plexy glass window inserted.jpg
    98.3 KB · Views: 154
Great build my both Mayas have been sitting in a drawer for a while. Time to get back to it :)

I have a question about button caps ) where do you get yours to accommodate maya stock buttons. Its definitely worth a very nice ones

It looks like the piezo button link does not open up. It was my dream to do something with piezo buttons similar to the initial PS Audio DACs. If we could do this it it would be a very hi end design :)
 
I used another tactile switch than the original Maya switches because you have to find a suitable combination of switch and switch cap. Start your search with the switch cap, then the switch follows.

I ended up with this cap from Digikey: TAGBLK, no. EG109d1-ND, it is 8,80mm dia. x 10,50mm H. So its height is enough to cross the 10 mm modushop front panel. I chose this cap also because it had to look similar to my headphone jack. See my build log on amb audio for more details.

With the cap specifications, I found this matching tactile switch: TL1100F160Q, it is 12mm size and can be bought at digikey (no. EG1821-ND). The construction of the switch on the front panel with a small prototype pcb is straight forward. The standoffs are m3 / 5.0 mm. The pcb has 2.54 mm hole pitch.
 

Attachments

  • Menu switch 1.jpg
    Menu switch 1.jpg
    207 KB · Views: 211
  • Menu switch 2.jpg
    Menu switch 2.jpg
    198.7 KB · Views: 211
  • Menu switch 3.jpg
    Menu switch 3.jpg
    117.9 KB · Views: 211
  • Menu switch 4.jpg
    Menu switch 4.jpg
    142.3 KB · Views: 203
  • Menu switch 5.jpg
    Menu switch 5.jpg
    226.2 KB · Views: 206
  • Menu switch 6.jpg
    Menu switch 6.jpg
    119.6 KB · Views: 93
An option for the plexiglass is a transparent version, and stick solar blocking/tinting film (for car windows) on the back of it it to tint it.
The Oled gives enough light (i have done it with both blue and white Oled), and it still looks good.

A little late, but thank you Audiohome for this tip! In the end i found suitable grey tinted plexiglass which also works.
 
Hi, I too would be interested in buying ...
if it is possible, what is the price?

Yes it is possible, but I'll not ship now due corona-19 pandemic.

Stereo - 250euro
Balanced - 350euro
For Hans BPBP - 150euro

Shipping EU - 22 euro
Shipping non EU - 38euro
Paypal fee 4%


If anyone interested, please make a list here and I'll try to serve all subscribed.
Please mention OLED display colour. Colour can be blue, green, yellow, white.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.