Alas I can't try this combination as Mouser slaps a ridiculous shipping fee if I order a couple of parts.
dewdrop,
Did you check Element14 Singapore? Last time I checked they had quite a few options for 0.33 Ohm 3 watt resistors.
Had the M2 on top for a few weeks. Good definition but darker and seemed rolled off on the top. Switched back to Aleph J on top and the outstanding female voices of Von Otter were back. Can build another Aleph J or an M2 with your mosfets. Not sure what to do. Do you have the B5 for crossover?
Hi Scranton,
I don't have any experience with the Aleph J. I know some people do really like it.
The M2 might appear rolled off because the transformer is not listed about 20k. I am not sure.
My ears are over 48 years old not, so I dont think I can hear about 14k last I checked. If so, its other parts of my body, not my ears.
I do use a B5 for a crossover with the open baffle. But In my basement system I just use plain M2.
In my experience, the Harris was a 'smoother' less shrill option that the Vishay IRFP9240. I believe the distortion curve problems in those were possibly the problem. Well, it's all I changed to resolve the issue.
The Fairchilds that were put into the original M2 from screenshots of the M2 papa amp, I tried those, they are good as well, but they are not really available at all anymore unfortunately. They were not as smooth as the Toshibas when I tried both in a F5 in the past, but then I found the Toshibas dry and sterile. An M2 I don't think is either of those things, Toshibas or not.
I still believe the M2 signature is dominated by the transformer. I was only able to change the sonic signature a little with cap tweaking or resistor changes.
I don't have any experience with the Aleph J. I know some people do really like it.
The M2 might appear rolled off because the transformer is not listed about 20k. I am not sure.
My ears are over 48 years old not, so I dont think I can hear about 14k last I checked. If so, its other parts of my body, not my ears.
I do use a B5 for a crossover with the open baffle. But In my basement system I just use plain M2.
In my experience, the Harris was a 'smoother' less shrill option that the Vishay IRFP9240. I believe the distortion curve problems in those were possibly the problem. Well, it's all I changed to resolve the issue.
The Fairchilds that were put into the original M2 from screenshots of the M2 papa amp, I tried those, they are good as well, but they are not really available at all anymore unfortunately. They were not as smooth as the Toshibas when I tried both in a F5 in the past, but then I found the Toshibas dry and sterile. An M2 I don't think is either of those things, Toshibas or not.
I still believe the M2 signature is dominated by the transformer. I was only able to change the sonic signature a little with cap tweaking or resistor changes.
Query on Tea-bag M2 boards please... I am thinking about the grounding arrangement for my M2 which I have started building using Tea-bag's boards. Inspecting the boards I see that of the 6 mounting holes, one of the hole pads is connected via the thick ground trace from PSU-G via IN-G on the way. Thus, heatsink is likely to be connected to chassis at this point. I thought that the normal scheme was to connect chassis to ground (star or T off the +/- reservoir crossing) via RL-60 thermistor _only_ as per F5 manual PSU drawing. Should ground trace be broken near pad to avoid potential hum/noise? Or use an insulating mounting on that screw? Thanks.
Sorry, I meant ground is likely to be connected to chassis at this point.
I tested a board this morning. If we take a default board which is v-scored into two channels, the inner rings next to "Left Channel" and "Right Channel" are grounded. This is meant to ground a potential shield covering of signal transformer if one is used. However, this is a round hole. The square holes are meant for chassis connection. Are you testing from the square holes?
Deeno,
You can refer to post #1 of this thread - Tea-Bag has a link for a bill of materials:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...ds-120mm-ums-spacing-tea-bag.html#post4612640
You can refer to post #1 of this thread - Tea-Bag has a link for a bill of materials:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...ds-120mm-ums-spacing-tea-bag.html#post4612640
I didn't have much luck searching the thread so... I'm building up these boards, and the bournes potentiometer I sourced (from the BOM's recommendation) does not seem to correspond to the connections on the board.
- The pot has three connections. One of them lines up with a pad that is not connected, and one of the pads that is connected lines up with a missing connection on the pot.
- When you line up the pot with the pads, it appears to be a mirror image of the markings on the board.
Any clues as to what's going on?
- The pot has three connections. One of them lines up with a pad that is not connected, and one of the pads that is connected lines up with a missing connection on the pot.
- When you line up the pot with the pads, it appears to be a mirror image of the markings on the board.
Any clues as to what's going on?
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