Finally hooked mine up to confirm its ability to make music. I hooked my Pono player in single-ended mode, as it was quicker than fabricating balanced interconnects for the Wiener and the iNuke sub amp.
I'm totally pleased. It's hard to imagine it sounding better using differential outputs from Pono, but I'm eager to give it a go.
Thank you Gary.
I'm totally pleased. It's hard to imagine it sounding better using differential outputs from Pono, but I'm eager to give it a go.
Thank you Gary.
Thermal pad shouldn't be required in the majority of applications. If you're driving high average power into low impedance loads, have the switching frequency set high, have the card mounted in a not well ventilated enclosure, etc... you might heat up the TPA to the point of setting off the thermal protection. If you figure you need it, the thermal pad's available from Digikey:
H48-6G-20-20-4-1A t-Global Technology | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
You'll also need four 1/8" (#4) or 3.5mm (M3) standoffs and hardware.
I forgot about the alternate address and sent it to your Paypal address, is that OK?
Right now I've got 2 unclaimed stereo cards put together, 4 ohm and 6 ohm IIRC, but I can convert them to 8 ohm. I'm waiting for everyone to receive their cards before I put them on the market.
Someone's asked me to make 3 stereo cards for them, if that goes through I might do a quick "2 day open order window" if anyone else wants a card, it would be nice to hit quantity 10's on the parts order. I'm out of PBTL PCBs so I'll only be doing stereo cards.
Someone's asked me to make 3 stereo cards for them, if that goes through I might do a quick "2 day open order window" if anyone else wants a card, it would be nice to hit quantity 10's on the parts order. I'm out of PBTL PCBs so I'll only be doing stereo cards.
Hi, nice to hear you are still producing these, thought I missed out. Currently using an SMSL SA-60 (TPA3116) fed by a linear bench supply @ 19v/5a, curious to see if your board can beat it.
I am interested in 1 finished stereo board. My speakers (ascend cbm170se) are rated at average impedance 8ohm, so presumably that is what I want?
If it is completely "finished" in a case that would be a nice bonus, as my diy skills are limited, but I'm sure I can figure something out with just the board, just not sure how volume control is done with your implementation.
Please PM at your convenience!
I am interested in 1 finished stereo board. My speakers (ascend cbm170se) are rated at average impedance 8ohm, so presumably that is what I want?
If it is completely "finished" in a case that would be a nice bonus, as my diy skills are limited, but I'm sure I can figure something out with just the board, just not sure how volume control is done with your implementation.
Please PM at your convenience!
I found an impedance graph for my speakers I mentioned above, as I said they claim 8ohm average, but I want to see if that is appropriate to drive them.
http://ascendacoustics.com/images/products/speakers/cbm170/170SE_Bode.gif
from 10-20khz it looks like 5ohm actually, but there are a couple of big spikes elsewhere, presumably due to crossover. my knowledge in this stuff is limited to a year of college physics so I'm not exactly sure what considerations have to be made on the amplifier side.
I do have a variable linear supply so I'd also like to know what voltage you think is best for this board. My TPA3116 seems to sound best at 19V, going 1 volt up or down noticeably degrades the sound.
http://ascendacoustics.com/images/products/speakers/cbm170/170SE_Bode.gif
from 10-20khz it looks like 5ohm actually, but there are a couple of big spikes elsewhere, presumably due to crossover. my knowledge in this stuff is limited to a year of college physics so I'm not exactly sure what considerations have to be made on the amplifier side.
I do have a variable linear supply so I'd also like to know what voltage you think is best for this board. My TPA3116 seems to sound best at 19V, going 1 volt up or down noticeably degrades the sound.
6 ohm amp should do the job. Main thing is to make sure that the speaker impedance matches the amp's designed load impedance up past 10-20KHz, otherwise you can get HF peaking or rolloff - that speaker has a nice ~5 ohm resistance at the high end, I figure a bit of speaker cable inductance/resistance will nudge that up nicely towards 6 ohms. 5 ohms isn't a bad mismatch anyway.
Don't really have an opinion on power supplies. I use a 12V battery for testing cards when I build them, and I use a Mean Well RS-75-24 switcher for my "lab" stereo setup.
Nice, thanks for the advice. Based on your suggestion, please put me down for:
-1 finished stereo board at 6ohm (not 8 as I said earlier).
A lot of people putting those custom-built Cinemag input transformers, for those who have, are they expensive/worth while? From my understanding these are just stepping up the V on the line signal, acting as a pre-amp, or very close to it. Is this correct?
I think just a handful of us built with input transformers. These amps sound great with/without them. I wanted to take things all the way for my little nearfield setup. It's an expensive way to gain a little something, at least if you go the CineMag route. You could leave room for them and then add later if you got curious. Really they just allow you to bypass the input cap, get a pseudo differential input and perhaps add some coloration due to non linearity.
BK
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