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Amanero Isolator/Reclocker GB

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H

hochopeper

Member
Joined 2009
Gents,

I am considering doing a small GB for say 10 - 20 of us who are getting these PCBs. Since small orders from DK to non-USA customers can be expensive after including shipping fees.

I will post back here tomorrow details of my offer, likely won't be a huge discount on DK part cost but should be a small saving and certainly cheaper than ordering from RS/Farnell. I need to consider keeping the GB small to avoid import duty charges into Aus or we'll likely lose any gains that we might have made. Please don't start lists or anything for it yet, if we do this I'll start a separate thread to avoid polluting the PCB thread.


Cheers,
Chris
 
A

acko

Member
Joined 2008
sites.google.com/site/ackodac/home
Last edited:
A

acko

Member
Joined 2008
sites.google.com/site/ackodac/home
BOM

Before you order all the parts as indicated on the BOM, please note that there a two versions of the re-clocker on one pcb panel. S01 uses conventional Flip-flops and S02 uses PotChips. So if you are just after one type then get the parts accordingly for some savings.

Also, depending on how you wish to use the boards there are again further options:
1. For instance if you only need the isolation function then there is no need to load the FFs and related parts. Just wire out the outputs from the isolator of the AKL unit to the DAC or device. On the S01 board there are pin pads marked "Data" "LRCK" etc just before the FFs to make this easier. e.g. if you are using Ian's FIFO-Reclocker and want to provide some form of isolation before the I2S signals go into the 'BackDoor' unit of the FIFO module. Or, if you feel that somehow the ESS DACs will eliminate or sufficiently reduce any jitter from the isolator that makes it pointless for any external re-clocker?


2. If your transport or device already has isolators e.g EX2UI, WaveIO then there is no need to populate the isolator section of the AKL units. Just wire in straight from the transport signals to the FFs of the AKL units. Again, on the S01 board there are pin pads marked "Data" "LRCK" etc just before the FFs for this purpose.
 
A

acko

Member
Joined 2008
sites.google.com/site/ackodac/home
BOM- more options

The LDOs on-board and related parts are also not needed if you have an external 3.3V source from DAC side, etc. Not much savings here but less labour pains soldering these tiny parts! Connect external 3.3V supply to the headers marked.

But note that there is fair amount of switching going on at re-clocker section so it best not to share DAC supplies if possible.
 
DQ828

DQ828

Member
Joined 2010
hochopeper said:
Gents,

I am considering doing a small GB for say 10 - 20 of us who are getting these PCBs. Since small orders from DK to non-USA customers can be expensive after including shipping fees.

I will post back here tomorrow details of my offer, likely won't be a huge discount on DK part cost but should be a small saving and certainly cheaper than ordering from RS/Farnell. I need to consider keeping the GB small to avoid import duty charges into Aus or we'll likely lose any gains that we might have made. Please don't start lists or anything for it yet, if we do this I'll start a separate thread to avoid polluting the PCB thread.


Cheers,
Chris
Click to expand...

I'm in when you are ready, no hurry for me.
 
H

hochopeper

Member
Joined 2009
neskor said:
Can we summarize now, what will be best option to build for Amanero + Buffalo IIISE?
S01 or S02?
Re-clocking or not?
Do I need iL711 (U2,U8) or not?
ADP150 LDO 3.3V or external 3.3V from Amanero (external Salas BiB 3.3V power supply)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Is hard to know with 100% certainty.

If it was me with that setup I would build S02 with reclocking. And S01 with just isol. Then compare. If you don't have any external controller you won't need U2 or U8, unless you use amanero DSD enable or mute signals already then you aren't going to have anything to connect them to.

Chris
 
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