ES9023 / WM8804 S/PDIF "Subbu DAC V3" GB Interest - Page 55

houghtkj · 22nd January 2013, 04:12 PM

If you are in the UK and you aren't doing a load of SMD work, I suggest you get this from Rapid: SMD rework jelly and solder pack
The flux will last ages and the solder is 62% tin, 2% silver, 36% lead.

Unless you have masochistic tendencies, dont use lead free solder, you wont go far wrong with 80/20 or 63/37 solder 26SWG.

I also suggest getting a temperature controlled iron of about 50W - The one you have is a bit low powered at 25W (lower power means that the iron struggles to maintain tip temperature, so requires more time to do the job). Take a look at this from Maplin: 48W LCD Display Solder Station : Temperature Controlled Irons & Solder Stations : Maplin Electronics

Ken

JJGB · 22nd January 2013, 09:36 PM

Spreadsheet Updated, 1 Bal kit.

BackinBlack · 24th January 2013, 01:44 PM

Just a quick comment. I notice that Uriah recommends not to use silver loaded solder for the lighter note, in particular for the LED optocoupler a the cadmium sulphide LDR is easily damaged by excess heat. I'm still using good old (very old!!) Ersin multicore, essential to clean excess flux from completed joints after though. There are still available lead/tin solders, such as Autosol from Rapid, good for most purposes.
Ian.

Witty · 25th January 2013, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jean-paul

All I can say is that an SE version seems ready for production of prototypes and Subbu is grinding his teeth on the BAL version.

I am wondering how true balanced output (i.e. +ve part out of one channel and -ve signal out of the other) is obtained here. From limited information ES9023 has no +ve and -ve outputs (only SE L&R output) so using two ES9023s only double the maximum output current. Unless the I2S is divided into +ve and -ve stream before entering ES9023.

Wiggly · 25th January 2013, 08:36 PM

Put myself down for an SE kit, thanks for for all the hard work you guys are putting in to make this happen.

samoloko · 26th January 2013, 09:19 AM

I bought v2.6
would you please explain benefits of v3

pilli · 26th January 2013, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samoloko

I bought v2.6
would you please explain benefits of v3

...for one thing, v3 group buy is sttill open, so that's a trivial benefit for those like me, who saw this project "a bit late"...

And with some improvements that are hinted at the beginning of this thread.

.

MrSlim · 26th January 2013, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samoloko

I bought v2.6
would you please explain benefits of v3

isn't it obvious... its at LEAST .4 better..

.

I was out of the loop during the 2.6 group buy so this is my chance to get in on the fun.. Until there is a final completed product to compare to 2.6, it's anyone's guess how much better it will be (if it would even be noticeable by TinEars like me...) I'll at least be able to compare it to my existing DAC's

jean-paul · 26th January 2013, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samoloko

I bought v2.6
would you please explain benefits of v3

None if you are happy with 2.6.

henryve · 27th January 2013, 05:19 AM

Added to spreadsheet. What the hell, will be my first DAC. Bought or DIY.

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22nd January 2013, 04:12 PM	#541
houghtkj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Lancashire, UK	If you are in the UK and you aren't doing a load of SMD work, I suggest you get this from Rapid: SMD rework jelly and solder pack The flux will last ages and the solder is 62% tin, 2% silver, 36% lead. Unless you have masochistic tendencies, dont use lead free solder, you wont go far wrong with 80/20 or 63/37 solder 26SWG. I also suggest getting a temperature controlled iron of about 50W - The one you have is a bit low powered at 25W (lower power means that the iron struggles to maintain tip temperature, so requires more time to do the job). Take a look at this from Maplin: 48W LCD Display Solder Station : Temperature Controlled Irons & Solder Stations : Maplin Electronics Ken

22nd January 2013, 09:36 PM	#542
JJGB diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2011	Spreadsheet Updated, 1 Bal kit.

24th January 2013, 01:44 PM	#543
BackinBlack diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009	Just a quick comment. I notice that Uriah recommends not to use silver loaded solder for the lighter note, in particular for the LED optocoupler a the cadmium sulphide LDR is easily damaged by excess heat. I'm still using good old (very old!!) Ersin multicore, essential to clean excess flux from completed joints after though. There are still available lead/tin solders, such as Autosol from Rapid, good for most purposes. Ian.

25th January 2013, 08:36 PM	#545
Wiggly diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Salisbury, Wiltshire	Put myself down for an SE kit, thanks for for all the hard work you guys are putting in to make this happen.

26th January 2013, 09:19 AM	#546
samoloko diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	I bought v2.6 would you please explain benefits of v3

27th January 2013, 05:19 AM	#550
henryve diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Strand	Added to spreadsheet. What the hell, will be my first DAC. Bought or DIY.