Odysseas;3239052Do we have any estimation on when they're going to be ready?[/QUOTE said:If you were following the thread you already know how the story is, this is an effort of selfless people having his private life, your comment is not positive
Just my 2 cent
Thank you guys for your effort, and take your time
Alberto.
Guys, I don't really want to ask anybody for a help if I can complete assembly myself. It is just bigger sense of satisfaction, which I pursue alongside with musical and sound qualities only matter.
If only smd would be beyond my skills, I would appreciate help from fellow forum members , and knowing this is possible put more confidence into my hands.
If only smd would be beyond my skills, I would appreciate help from fellow forum members , and knowing this is possible put more confidence into my hands.
I agree with what you said. Well, what you can do, is buy some smd parts (resistors for example, and any smd board and try to solder them. Even better you could buy one of those electronic kits like a timer for a few euros just to experiment. It's not difficult, it just takes some practice.
Liquid flux might be handy for the chips, although it is quite expensive.
The most important thing is to check for short circuits and clean the board, when you're done with a residue removal.
Liquid flux might be handy for the chips, although it is quite expensive.
The most important thing is to check for short circuits and clean the board, when you're done with a residue removal.
I think this one is quite nice tutorial EEVblog #186 - Soldering Tutorial Part 3 - Surface Mount - YouTube.
I bought antex xs25 iron, so can buy tip required (hope this one is fine to use). It did good job with my b1 assembly. Soon has to come LDR Note from Uriah and salas psu.
It is addiction.
I bought antex xs25 iron, so can buy tip required (hope this one is fine to use). It did good job with my b1 assembly. Soon has to come LDR Note from Uriah and salas psu.
It is addiction.
Soldering SMD parts isnt such a PITA as you all think. Before my first try to solder SMD parts I was like "Noooohoooooo way I am goin to solder this onto that" , and after some tries I was like "Wohooooooo, Thats easier than I thought". (I had some sodering skills before mainly soldering for my Robots. But no SMD Parts were involved then) And that were some Ram Chips which I soldered to my old Xbox to ramp the 64MB Ram to 128MB Ram up!
And that is quiet hardcore I think regarding smds.
THe best results you will get with good preperations and with good tools.
So I would recommend to use flux on the Pads so that the Soldering iron will stick better to the pads and will be easier to cope with regarding those little pins on the chip.
And a good Soldering-Station with temperature control is essential for good soldering results.
Especially for SMD a really thin and clean soldering tip is required to be able to solder it. With thick soldering tips you have no chance.
And that is quiet hardcore I think regarding smds.
THe best results you will get with good preperations and with good tools.
So I would recommend to use flux on the Pads so that the Soldering iron will stick better to the pads and will be easier to cope with regarding those little pins on the chip.
And a good Soldering-Station with temperature control is essential for good soldering results.
Especially for SMD a really thin and clean soldering tip is required to be able to solder it. With thick soldering tips you have no chance.
I agree in general with what you've said. Though I would like to suggest that a larger tip is very handy for SMT work when there are large amounts of copper in power/ground planes. I do most of my SMT work with a 2.4mm chisel tip like this - https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_d.html
A larger tip allows a larger thermal mass in the tip and less temperature drop when soldering to another large thermal mass. This means that you can make the solder flow quicker and spend less time heating up the component.
There is one issue that as you get older your hands may not be steady enough and your eyesight may not be good enough to continue to work on these things. In that case I can see where there is a very legitimate concern about being able to successfully work on SMT assembly.
Cheers,
Chris
a larger tip is recommended even without ground plane sucking the heat, as ive said before around here, its counter intuitive, but a 2-3mm chisel is perfect for doing fine pitch work. yes most people seem to get all scared about SMD, when its easier.
plenty of flux, good desoldering braid and you can with practice just drag a bead of solder down an entire side of a part, then just neaten it up with the tip of the braid. its really not as hard as people convince themselves it will be
^^ this is the only legit reason for not persuing SMD, otherwise you may as well give up DIY now, it wont be long before you cant make anything at all
plenty of flux, good desoldering braid and you can with practice just drag a bead of solder down an entire side of a part, then just neaten it up with the tip of the braid. its really not as hard as people convince themselves it will be
^^ this is the only legit reason for not persuing SMD, otherwise you may as well give up DIY now, it wont be long before you cant make anything at all
I'm sure age will get the better of me eventually, but at 55 - and with the help of the right tools + a good lighted 5x magnifying lens; it's more than doable. Just takes practice and technique (mine is similar to all those mentioned above - though I prefer not to drag solder). Count me in with those that prefer SMD. I find it fairly easy now, and really like the electrical/package benefits.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.