Joachim Gerhard Filter Buffer for ES9022 - Page 46 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Commercial Sector > Group Buys
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Group Buys Members group buys

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 28th January 2013, 11:03 PM   #451
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
I got to building tonight. A word of warning: those 150pf capacitors are easy to bugger up. I did it to 2 of them, and melting off the end cap on them. Be warned! Also, just so you remember to use the 18.7k resistor for R1 rather than the 10k. It's the only one that is unmarked.

  Reply With Quote
Old 29th January 2013, 05:22 AM   #452
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Yes, you should really used low-temperature solder and reduce iron temperature to 300C maximum, and have speedy hands.
Melt the solder on the PCB first before putting the cap in place will help.

Practice makes things perfect. No other way.

  Reply With Quote
Old 29th January 2013, 10:10 AM   #453
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Yeap, once you get the hang of it you can work really really fast.

SMD lten lernen (0805+0603) - YouTube

As I've said before, I actually find it faster (and more fun) than working with through hole components.
Also, in tight layouts and if temperature is too high (or you don't move fast enough) you'll have solder re-flowing in neighboring pads; which is never a good idea because parts near the one you're working on will start moving!

The only thing you can never really practice enough is trying to find an 0402 or 0603 component that you drop on the floor...
I actually lost one of the caps (or was it a resistor?) when I was soldering this filter board! Good idea to include a spare one in the kits..!
"You have a hierarchy: a mathematician, a physicist (which is a failed mathematician), and an engineer (which is a failed physicist)." - Andrew Jones

Last edited by TheShaman; 29th January 2013 at 10:13 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th January 2013, 12:38 PM   #454
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
diyAudio Member
qusp's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brisbane, Australia
yes, large work bench, locking tweezers and NOT carpet, or lay down some paper. of course that wont stop it happening.

man that guy uses a lot of solder on that vid
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th January 2013, 12:41 PM   #455
Can you say Audio?
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Aurora, Colorado
I have to agree - I find I prefer SMD work these days. I'm 55 and requires a good 5x viewing glass, but I find it more enjoyable. I think part of it is seeing my technique improve as I do it. I added a reflow oven to my bench awhile back, but I still prefer to lay components down by hand. I find it relaxing.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th January 2013, 01:56 PM   #456
shoom is offline shoom  Europe
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Worcestershire
Hi All
OK I know that most of you guys here are old hands at SMD work but Im still pretty new to it all.
Others may be also
Here is what I usually do.
Adjustable temp soldering iron. (Set for around 300deg C)
Good quality low melt solder (I use Cardas as its nice to work with)
10x magnifying loop
A pair of fine pointed nose tweezers
A flux pen
An old aerosol lid in white preferably. (Stops SMDs disappearing into thin air)
A sheet of white paper.
I use a board clamp but Im sure that a couple of blobs of blue tack or such like will stop the board from skidding around.
1) Select the SMD component to be soldered and drop it into the aerosol lid.
2) Solder one of the pads for the SMD on the board
3) Take out the SMD from the lid and put it onto the white paper with the tweezers.
4) Apply flux to the end of the SMD to be soldered to the pre soldered pad.
5) Grab the SMD with the tweezers and place it flux side to the pre soldered pad
6) Quickly apply heat to the pre soldered pad and device once you have it correctly aligned.
7) Check the joint with the loop
8) If happy solder the other end of the SMD and check both joints with the loop.
With resistors I usually check for continuity with a Multimeter from the pad before to the pad after.
Remember to take as much time as needed
The only thing that should be quick is your work with the iron.
Im new to all of this stuff but I was lucky enough to have help getting started but if Ive got it wrong or missed something please chip in as your experiences may help others.
Good luck
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th February 2013, 01:53 PM   #457
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
mmm. I soldered up my boards, fried one of the 150pF caps in the process. That was replaced, and it measures OK. But there is something wrong, I get distorted sound on one channel and almost nothing on the other. If I plug out the distorted channel, I get sound on the silent one.

I made a boo-boo somewhere....

EUVL - I am using your dac. Ground and signals are going from the outputs on your dac straight to the JG filter (what would have gone to the rca jacks). Power is +/-12V supply from a Salas shunt. Dac on its own is perfect, so its deinfitely something in how I have assembled/wired the filter.


Last edited by woodturner-fran; 4th February 2013 at 01:56 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th February 2013, 03:04 PM   #458
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Sounds like you swapped the Gnd and the input signal wires to the filter, or shorted them somehow on the PCB.

Suggest you do the following :
Use a functions generator (or sound card output) to supply a 1kHz Sine wave to the filter, one channel at a time.
Use an oscilloscope to see the waveform.

This will at least tell you which channel has gone wrong, and why.

So simple circuit !!!!!!!!!


Last edited by EUVL; 4th February 2013 at 03:08 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th February 2013, 06:16 PM   #459
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
Err, em. Fess up time. I had gnd and + output wrong way round on one channel. That was the reason for sound on one side only. Distortion was because I had set the shunt incorrectly and Vs was low. Easy to make such silly mistakes late at night under pressure.

Sound: more 3d soundstage, more detail and reality to the sound of each instrument. It doesn't jump out at you, but when you switch back and forth its apparent.

+1 for the design team!

  Reply With Quote
Old 4th February 2013, 06:48 PM   #460
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
Actually, it's very apparent on more dense complex music. Playing "no man will ever love you like I do" by raghu dixit is a great track, and very complex. The extra resolution without any harshness is a real bonus.
  Reply With Quote


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Anybody using the new ESS Vout DAC (ES9022)? jkeny Digital Line Level 605 20th July 2014 07:36 PM
ZDL thread by Joachim Gerhard jamikl Multi-Way 14 21st July 2011 06:10 AM
ESS Sabre ES9022 announced sjalloq Digital Line Level 2 3rd September 2009 03:18 PM
OPA627 as a Filter/Buffer? D_GR8_1 Chip Amps 7 10th November 2004 12:17 AM
Filter for buffer carlmart Chip Amps 8 1st June 2004 07:57 PM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:13 AM.

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2016 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2