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GB for F5T Convertible amplifier boards

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Here is a more picturesque version of the same message.

he F5TC boards and Larger Dual Rail Power Supplies are available.

I have changed the thickness of the boards to 2.0mm. This comprimises some rigidity if mounting lots of Fets to the sinks, but makes it a lot easier to desolder if needed.

The price of the boards are 15.00 each. So a stereo set is 30.00 a pair.

Here are some pics.

IMG_1458.jpg


IMG_1459.JPG


The power supply boards at others request now take up to 40mm caps. This makes the boards a bit larger as you can see below. (also see blog on matter as well).

These are 25.00 each. I was able to use 35v 47000uf caps for my V2 type version. ( Still using one per channel)
You can also now use 63v 22000uf caps by panasonic, or some other wider exotic ones if they support the same mounting pattern.

IMG_14501.jpg


IMG_14521.jpg


IMG_14511.jpg


Please PM your paypal email and I can send you an invoice for what you want. I will also qoute you for shipping. Since these are heavy and large boards, I am charging actual shipping and materials cost for each person.

Let me know if there are any questions.


Power Supply Blog
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/tea-bag/923-dual-rail-power-supply-f5t-f6.html
 
Information about cutting trace.

Hi,

I decided finally to use my F5T Convertible amp boards to build one of the amps described in the thread F5 with 2SK2013/2SJ313.

In order to do so I believe that I have to cut four traces (and add a few jumpers). Because the boards are so nice and I have not done it before, I was wondering whether you could offer a tried and true method of doing a clean job of it.

Here is the link to the schematic that I followed (version referred to as mk 1) : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...512859426-f5-2sk2013-2sj313-f5-toshiba-mk-gif.

I have attached a photo of my build so far. Thanks.
 

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Hi,

I decided finally to use my F5T Convertible amp boards to build one of the amps described in the thread F5 with 2SK2013/2SJ313.

In order to do so I believe that I have to cut four traces (and add a few jumpers). Because the boards are so nice and I have not done it before, I was wondering whether you could offer a tried and true method of doing a clean job of it.

Here is the link to the schematic that I followed (version referred to as mk 1) : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...512859426-f5-2sk2013-2sj313-f5-toshiba-mk-gif.

I have attached a photo of my build so far. Thanks.

In my setup, I just jumpered the Q7-8 as you have done to bypass the V3 front end. I am not certain what the differences are between Jumas setup and the more basic V1-2 setup here.

As far as cutting traces, when I have needed to, I drill them out if possible. start with a smaller bit, then go a little larger is less destructive.
 
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