Just saw this old post while rereading material while building, yes he's quite the chassis mechanic!
there is an old picture either here or on Audiokarma of my first F-5 build, he's a tiny kitten that we rescued....someone dumped him in the middle of a highway of all things. Again it is profitable to say, "Humans are the only animal that blushes, or has any need to."
Russellc
Still cant believe I killed a P3....
Buzz, I sent an email about this, I'm afraid I need to buy an extra.......if you got one. I'm a fanatic about all the parts being the same.Russellc
Buzz, or anyone, the last "mystery" part I have are these big honking .1 resistors. I assumed they went along the sides of the power supply board, like the pic in Tea-bags blog, but I have four of them, which still leave 2 unexplained. Did I get 2 extras, or like usual, am I missing something and they are for something else?
Thanks in advance,
Russellc
Thanks in advance,
Russellc
F5T article shows .05 ohms to minimize loss. Double them up.
Ahhh, they take the place of all those .47 resistors, I see. I was wondering what happened to them!
Looks like it will be easier to use staggered holes b/c of the thick wire. I guess one could be on top of the board and the other underneath as well.
Russellc
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Which position for the 120 R resistors?
Another question for Buzz, or any kit builder that knows: The 120 R resistors with heat sink. Does it matter which of the two sets of holes (inside, for R10 and R8, or outside for R7 and R9 are used for them? I assume the outside positions would be preferred, just to move the heat (albeit very little from what I've read) will be to the outside of the board, but this is just my SWA guess.
Also, I havent found anything addressing this, but I assume nothing in the "open position" needs a jumper installed? Thought I had better ask.
looking at the schematic, it appears that they could go in any of the holes, as long as one in on each side of course. It also appears nothing would need to be jumpered either. But again, I better make sure. desoldering from this board will be difficult. Very thick boards, holes are deeper and hold noticeably more solder. Good Joints yes, difficult to desolder? seems like it would be. Hopefully that can be avoided being careful.
Russellc
Another question for Buzz, or any kit builder that knows: The 120 R resistors with heat sink. Does it matter which of the two sets of holes (inside, for R10 and R8, or outside for R7 and R9 are used for them? I assume the outside positions would be preferred, just to move the heat (albeit very little from what I've read) will be to the outside of the board, but this is just my SWA guess.
Also, I havent found anything addressing this, but I assume nothing in the "open position" needs a jumper installed? Thought I had better ask.
looking at the schematic, it appears that they could go in any of the holes, as long as one in on each side of course. It also appears nothing would need to be jumpered either. But again, I better make sure. desoldering from this board will be difficult. Very thick boards, holes are deeper and hold noticeably more solder. Good Joints yes, difficult to desolder? seems like it would be. Hopefully that can be avoided being careful.
Russellc
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well, I will be using the cascoded input J-fet, so it doen's look like I need to jumper anything, cool.
On the out put boards, (Tea-bags) I notice most of the pics I've seen of Turb F-5 V-2 with 2 pairs per side that the mosfets and diode are not in the first two positions on the boards, but are spaced out to make better use of the heatsink. Is it just a matter of where you install the fet, diode, and associated resistors, or does something need jumped here?
Looking at schematics and so forth, and staring at the board it appears this is the case. (That it does NOT need jumped) To me it looks like you just choose the best positions and install the parts there. common sense tells me to proceed, yet the difficulty of removing a part on this thick board still haunts me, dont want to repeat that again if at all possible, thus my incessant questions.
Am I good to go just installing the parts on the boards, (Oh, BTW these are Tea-bag's boards, not store) with no added jumpering?
Getting closer, and thanks in advance...
Russellc
On the out put boards, (Tea-bags) I notice most of the pics I've seen of Turb F-5 V-2 with 2 pairs per side that the mosfets and diode are not in the first two positions on the boards, but are spaced out to make better use of the heatsink. Is it just a matter of where you install the fet, diode, and associated resistors, or does something need jumped here?
Looking at schematics and so forth, and staring at the board it appears this is the case. (That it does NOT need jumped) To me it looks like you just choose the best positions and install the parts there. common sense tells me to proceed, yet the difficulty of removing a part on this thick board still haunts me, dont want to repeat that again if at all possible, thus my incessant questions.
Am I good to go just installing the parts on the boards, (Oh, BTW these are Tea-bag's boards, not store) with no added jumpering?
Getting closer, and thanks in advance...
Russellc
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