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#421 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Quote:
I see the difficulty in keeping things in sync Subbu and I being on 2 different continents with different timezones and different lives and work etc. and how to publish changes/improvements along the way ? Should be a central point that can change dynamically. Yeah a website, heard your thoughts. I can't do it as I don't have that experience and the time and I simply don't want to do it as I better devote my time to designing a new DAC. Job description was: design DAC, design PCB, build it, test it, improve it. That's what I was hired for
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It's only audio Last edited by jean-paul; 27th August 2012 at 09:54 PM. |
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#422 |
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diyAudio Member
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Jean Paul, you answer was awaited as I'm managing the EU Parts GB...
I'm trying to do my best in this project, and as there are some money left, I'll place the order ASAP to Mouser's - SE & BAL - for all DIYer's who subscribed to the EU GB. Could you please check it twice ![]() Next project : USB to I2S... sorry, I've forget you aren't a USB guy
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#423 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Can't tell much but it will be USB + SPDIF + I2S + DAC and the PSU on one single board with connectors all on the PCB so only 115 V/230 V wiring. It will not be a Group Buy effort, sorry.
While I don't like USB the rest of the world does so I will adapt. Off to bed now, will check twice tomorrow.
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It's only audio Last edited by jean-paul; 27th August 2012 at 10:24 PM. |
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#424 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
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In fact, the cable is a long cable. The length is only 25cm. I did not try to carry the power over AC. I found most power separated commercial productions transmission the power over DC (filtered or non-filtered).
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Here's looking at you, kid. |
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#425 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
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Quote:
Quote:
Yes, filtering the DC in the power box may be good, but the power box is too small to fit additional capacitors. In my other projects, I compared filtering the DC in the power box with filtering the DC in the load box. The difference is insignificant. By the way, there is no smooth capacitors in 47 Lab power modules as well. I ordered two sets of the WM8804/ES9023. My plan is to tweak on one set and keep the other set on "default setting" for reference. Hi Syklab, I am sorry I misspelled your name.
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Here's looking at you, kid. Last edited by Marlowe; 27th August 2012 at 10:55 PM. |
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#426 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lawrence, a nice little college town in Kansas
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I threw together a PS and hooked everything up last night and got no sound. I found the voltage from the PS started at just below 5V, then dropped quickly. The decrease slowed as it approached 3V. Checked it with the scope there's no oscillation. It's a super simple design: An LM7805 with a 0.22uF ceramic cap to ground on the left pin and a 0.1uF polyester film cap to ground on the right pin. Power is a 9V battery. Regulator is well heatsinked and gets warm, but not hot. I've tried a few batteries, and the problem is not a dead battery.
So do I blame the lack of sound on the DAC or the PS? or maybe my TOSLINK module? Will the DAC work at all with 3V to 4V? I've ordered the Velleman kit, which should arrive by the end of the week. |
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#427 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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Does the input voltage stay 9V or does it also drop?
Ray |
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#428 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Quote:
This is not a project for SMD beginners. If you want to build it then build it as recommended which is not with a 9 V battery. I think the current is too much for a 9 V battery (this would be the best error of all as it is reversible easily) or there are shorts on the PCB or defective/overheated parts. Could be anything. TOSLINK module ? How is it connected ? To one of the onboard regs ? (oh no). The DAC can't work with 3 V as the regs need to deliver 3.3 and 3.6 V. But 4 V is no problem.Pics would help considering all possibilities.
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It's only audio Last edited by jean-paul; 28th August 2012 at 09:26 PM. |
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#429 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Jean Paul, I'm back with this point
Parts concerned by Tantalum replacement are : 1° - C19, C22, C26, C29 and C8 for SE 2° - C19, C22, C26 and C8 for BAL Would this one be a good candidate : http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/V...U2mVu6qTaAc%3d Verdict your Emeritus ? Last edited by korben69; 28th August 2012 at 09:29 PM. |
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#430 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Hi that cap is OK too.
Parts concerned by Tantalum replacement are : 1° - C19, C22, C26, C29 and C8 for SE 2° - C19, C22, C26 and C8 for BAL Confirmed but I have to tell I did not adapt the design for balanced use. Never built one but it seems OK to me. To all: the output caps for MIC5205 should be not too low ESR so no PPS or ceramic but please use tants 4.7 µF 10 or 16 V. Same for C8.
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It's only audio Last edited by jean-paul; 28th August 2012 at 09:48 PM. |
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