BOM
it has been asked several times in this thread for a BOM and the schematic. How soon could we get one?
Being as we will need these as a minimum to build the dac, sooner would be better than later. it would allow time to order/scrounge parts and generally get familiar with the design.
thanks
it has been asked several times in this thread for a BOM and the schematic. How soon could we get one?
Being as we will need these as a minimum to build the dac, sooner would be better than later. it would allow time to order/scrounge parts and generally get familiar with the design.
thanks
We have been busy with this for 4 months (at least). We are still busy testing and selecting parts to avoid unnecessary surprises. Subbu is busy with the BOM and I made things complicated again by changing some things the day he was ready to send the files for production, publish the BOM and the schematic to the participants. Those had to be changed accordingly. Just a little patience, it will be ready within a week.
Some notes as we get flooded by email with the most elementary questions which cost a lot of time:
- you need a decent 5V DC regulated power supply with a separate transformer. Not AC, not 9V not 12 V but 5V DC 250 mA to 1 A. It depends a little which regulators you are going to use on the DAC PCB but 5V is the best choice with either of them. Beefier supplies can be used but they will not make things better. A Velleman K1823 will work OK together with a Nuvotem 60010 transformer (you can parallel the secondaries as it has 2 of them) or any 250 mA to 1 A 7V to 9V transformer. A 6V will probably work too with this small load but officially it is too tight. In real life it will be OK though as 6V transformers give 7V or more normally with 50 mA load. The EI types and Rcore types are technically better but they are mechanically somewhat more difficult to mount or they're more expensive. The Nuvotem will give you 10 V DC at the buffer cap. More than enough. Questions like: "can I use my 24V power supply", "can I use the existing power supply in device Y" will not be answered.
- You will need a metal casing, not wood not plastic but metal be it aluminium or steel, copper or whatever. DACs need some shielding when a 50 MHz clock is used. Wood might be nice to work on and it certainly looks OK but it is not OK for DACs or you would have to use a internal shield.
- You will have to use isolated RCA/cinch connectors for L+R outputs if you mount them in the casing
- You will have to connect either 115V or 230V primaries (depending in which part of the world you are living). I would like to advise to work safe and tidy and to use a fused connector block. I use these frequently, they're safe and it will be mechanically OK:
http://nl.farnell.com/metway-electrical-industries/1003si03e/terminal-block-fused-1-3w/dp/1134208 Please keep in mind that the middle connector is connected to the chassis by the mounting screw as it is the PE connection. Use isolated cable shoes on flexible wires 0.75 to 1.5 mm2.
- First build the power supply and test it with a DMM. Adjustable power supplies need to be adjusted to 5V before they will be connected to the DAC.
- Don't start this project if you are inexperienced either with mains voltage, transformers, correct grounding, soldering, SMD parts, electricity/electronics or audio in general.
Some notes as we get flooded by email with the most elementary questions which cost a lot of time:
- you need a decent 5V DC regulated power supply with a separate transformer. Not AC, not 9V not 12 V but 5V DC 250 mA to 1 A. It depends a little which regulators you are going to use on the DAC PCB but 5V is the best choice with either of them. Beefier supplies can be used but they will not make things better. A Velleman K1823 will work OK together with a Nuvotem 60010 transformer (you can parallel the secondaries as it has 2 of them) or any 250 mA to 1 A 7V to 9V transformer. A 6V will probably work too with this small load but officially it is too tight. In real life it will be OK though as 6V transformers give 7V or more normally with 50 mA load. The EI types and Rcore types are technically better but they are mechanically somewhat more difficult to mount or they're more expensive. The Nuvotem will give you 10 V DC at the buffer cap. More than enough. Questions like: "can I use my 24V power supply", "can I use the existing power supply in device Y" will not be answered.
- You will need a metal casing, not wood not plastic but metal be it aluminium or steel, copper or whatever. DACs need some shielding when a 50 MHz clock is used. Wood might be nice to work on and it certainly looks OK but it is not OK for DACs or you would have to use a internal shield.
- You will have to use isolated RCA/cinch connectors for L+R outputs if you mount them in the casing
- You will have to connect either 115V or 230V primaries (depending in which part of the world you are living). I would like to advise to work safe and tidy and to use a fused connector block. I use these frequently, they're safe and it will be mechanically OK:
http://nl.farnell.com/metway-electrical-industries/1003si03e/terminal-block-fused-1-3w/dp/1134208 Please keep in mind that the middle connector is connected to the chassis by the mounting screw as it is the PE connection. Use isolated cable shoes on flexible wires 0.75 to 1.5 mm2.
- First build the power supply and test it with a DMM. Adjustable power supplies need to be adjusted to 5V before they will be connected to the DAC.
- Don't start this project if you are inexperienced either with mains voltage, transformers, correct grounding, soldering, SMD parts, electricity/electronics or audio in general.
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Of course I was too late to edit my post but saying "aluminum, steel, copper or whatever" for shielding could be just enough for 20+ pages on what material is best for shielding. In my experience steel and aluminum will be OK.
BTW I was busy encasing one of the prototypes and maybe it gives some impression how things can be done regarding the power supply. Take the picture with a grain of salt as the wiring is not done yet. Electrical fundamentalists will see that a single pole switch is used and no PE grounding is used while the case is made from metal. Don't do that, this is a prototype that looks too good for a prototype. I know AndrewT will tick on my fingers but I would like to advise to use PE on the casing and to have the electronics "floating" so no connection of audio GND to PE. This case will probably be fitted with a 3 pin IEC C13 or "Euro" connector with the PE pin connected to the middle connection of the Metway connector block so that the case will be grounded.
The secondary wiring of the transformer is finished with yellow isolated cable shoes like it should be.
BTW I was busy encasing one of the prototypes and maybe it gives some impression how things can be done regarding the power supply. Take the picture with a grain of salt as the wiring is not done yet. Electrical fundamentalists will see that a single pole switch is used and no PE grounding is used while the case is made from metal. Don't do that, this is a prototype that looks too good for a prototype. I know AndrewT will tick on my fingers but I would like to advise to use PE on the casing and to have the electronics "floating" so no connection of audio GND to PE. This case will probably be fitted with a 3 pin IEC C13 or "Euro" connector with the PE pin connected to the middle connection of the Metway connector block so that the case will be grounded.
The secondary wiring of the transformer is finished with yellow isolated cable shoes like it should be.
Attachments
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You can use a 50V shunt supply with russian teflon caps if you like but don't be surprised if your DAC will stay eternally silent 
Since someone connected it straight to a transformer I just know I have to be repeating that it needs 5V DC ... let alone that questions will arise if it can be used with LiPo batteries (that are 3.7V).....
Since someone connected it straight to a transformer I just know I have to be repeating that it needs 5V DC ... let alone that questions will arise if it can be used with LiPo batteries (that are 3.7V).....
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You can use a 50V shunt supply with russian teflon caps if you like but don't be surprised if your DAC will stay eternally silent
Since someone connected it straight to a transformer I just know I have to be repeating that it needs 5V DC ... let alone that questions will arise if it can be used with LiPo batteries (that are 3.7V).....
You mean a black background, right?
All -
Here is the final list of members in the Group Buy. Please take a moment to review the sheet and let me know if you find any errors.
BOM has been added to the first post of this thread.
The board has been sent for manufacturing and ES9023 ordered. Lead time for manufacturing is 11 business days + 2 days for shipping.
In the next few days I will send and email to all participating members with the shipping address.
Thanks
Subbu
Here is the final list of members in the Group Buy. Please take a moment to review the sheet and let me know if you find any errors.
BOM has been added to the first post of this thread.
The board has been sent for manufacturing and ES9023 ordered. Lead time for manufacturing is 11 business days + 2 days for shipping.
In the next few days I will send and email to all participating members with the shipping address.
Thanks
Subbu
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It will work even better in a metal enclosure. And if it is not your DAC that works better it will be other electronic devices in its vicinity that will. Basic principles are eh ... basic principles. Electronic devices with high frequencies should be shielded and a bonus of shielding is that RF from outside can not get in the DAC too. You might be lucky when your petrol car runs on Diesel but it will run better on petrol.
Ah I almost forgot: the DAC needs a 5V DC 250 mA to 1A power supply
Ah I almost forgot: the DAC needs a 5V DC 250 mA to 1A power supply
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HOORAY!
Thank you, Subbu and Jean-Paul for posting the much-anticipated bill of materials. I immediately dove in, and populated a new project at Mouser with the materials.
Now, I have a small question/favor to ask of our gracious hosts, or any other builder who is more knowledgeable about electronics than me (which is most of you).
I like to buy from Mouser over DigiKey, but three items are not available from Mouser. I selected what I think are the most similar items. I was hoping someone could take a look at the substitutions I've selected and tell me it they're a good choice. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this question, just the first to ask.
R14, R15 (Jumpers)
Digi-Key: RES 0.0 OHM 1/8W SMD 0805 - MCU08050Z0000ZP500
My substitute: CRCW08050000Z0EA Vishay/Dale Thick Film Resistors - SMD
U3 (3.6V low dropout regulator)
Digi-Key: MIC5205-3.6YM5 TR Micrel Inc | 576-1260-1-ND | DigiKey
My substitute: LP2985IM5-3.6/NOPB National Semiconductor (TI) Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators
U4, U5, U6 (3.3V low dropout regulator)
Digi-Key: MIC5205-3.3YM5 TR Micrel Inc | 576-1259-1-ND | DigiKey
My substitute: LP3990MF-3.3/NOPB National Semiconductor (TI) Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators
Also, Mouser has a feature which lets people with accounts share projects. If anyone would like me to share my project with them, send me a PM with the name and e-mail address you have on file with Mouser. It could save some time populating your project or shopping cart.
-Byron
Thank you, Subbu and Jean-Paul for posting the much-anticipated bill of materials. I immediately dove in, and populated a new project at Mouser with the materials.
Now, I have a small question/favor to ask of our gracious hosts, or any other builder who is more knowledgeable about electronics than me (which is most of you).
I like to buy from Mouser over DigiKey, but three items are not available from Mouser. I selected what I think are the most similar items. I was hoping someone could take a look at the substitutions I've selected and tell me it they're a good choice. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this question, just the first to ask.
R14, R15 (Jumpers)
Digi-Key: RES 0.0 OHM 1/8W SMD 0805 - MCU08050Z0000ZP500
My substitute: CRCW08050000Z0EA Vishay/Dale Thick Film Resistors - SMD
U3 (3.6V low dropout regulator)
Digi-Key: MIC5205-3.6YM5 TR Micrel Inc | 576-1260-1-ND | DigiKey
My substitute: LP2985IM5-3.6/NOPB National Semiconductor (TI) Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators
U4, U5, U6 (3.3V low dropout regulator)
Digi-Key: MIC5205-3.3YM5 TR Micrel Inc | 576-1259-1-ND | DigiKey
My substitute: LP3990MF-3.3/NOPB National Semiconductor (TI) Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators
Also, Mouser has a feature which lets people with accounts share projects. If anyone would like me to share my project with them, send me a PM with the name and e-mail address you have on file with Mouser. It could save some time populating your project or shopping cart.
-Byron
Byron,
Sure you can use the substitutes mentioned above.
For R14, R15 you can just jumper them with solder. We added that resistor if some one wanted to experiment with different values.
The component values will differ for the regulator section if you go with LP2985 series. I will make an update to the BOM with appropriate component values for the different regulators.
Regards,
Subbu
Sure you can use the substitutes mentioned above.
For R14, R15 you can just jumper them with solder. We added that resistor if some one wanted to experiment with different values.
The component values will differ for the regulator section if you go with LP2985 series. I will make an update to the BOM with appropriate component values for the different regulators.
Regards,
Subbu
Hi Unixdeveloper,
Based on your list, it shows that I haven't sent you my shipping address. As far as I know, I already emailed you this information last June 1st. If you did not received it, then let me know so I can email it to you again.
Thanks,
Fred
Thank you, Subbu and Jean-Paul for posting the much-anticipated bill of materials. I immediately dove in, and populated a new project at Mouser with the materials.
Now, I have a small question/favor to ask of our gracious hosts, or any other builder who is more knowledgeable about electronics than me (which is most of you).
I like to buy from Mouser over DigiKey, but three items are not available from Mouser. I selected what I think are the most similar items. I was hoping someone could take a look at the substitutions I've selected and tell me it they're a good choice. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this question, just the first to ask.
R14, R15 (Jumpers)
Digi-Key: RES 0.0 OHM 1/8W SMD 0805 - MCU08050Z0000ZP500
My substitute: CRCW08050000Z0EA Vishay/Dale Thick Film Resistors - SMD
U3 (3.6V low dropout regulator)
Digi-Key: MIC5205-3.6YM5 TR Micrel Inc | 576-1260-1-ND | DigiKey
My substitute: LP2985IM5-3.6/NOPB National Semiconductor (TI) Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators
U4, U5, U6 (3.3V low dropout regulator)
Digi-Key: MIC5205-3.3YM5 TR Micrel Inc | 576-1259-1-ND | DigiKey
My substitute: LP3990MF-3.3/NOPB National Semiconductor (TI) Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators
Also, Mouser has a feature which lets people with accounts share projects. If anyone would like me to share my project with them, send me a PM with the name and e-mail address you have on file with Mouser. It could save some time populating your project or shopping cart.
-Byron
Parts were chosen on their specs notably the regs. Using the parts in the BOM will save us from a lot pages solving possible issues. I think that is the reason BOMs are made.
Be glad you have Digikey over there and just order the parts there. If there is a reg with similar qualities it would be ADP151 but there does not exist a 3.6V version of that one. I used ADP151 on an all 3.3V version and results are very good. One needs to omit the 470 pF bypass caps. The ES9023 performs better on 3.6V.
This is my last reply on the typical questions "can I use this for that ?". I don't know if this is a cultural thing but in any case I get pretty tired of PM with questions like: " can I use square wheels instead of round wheels" and some days after that" my car drives fine with square wheels". I certainly do not want to be a annoying type of guy but we provide a design, a PCB and a chip + BOM + schematic. Now it is up to you to find the subscribed parts and populate the PCB. It can not be asked from us to answer every question on substitutes by people who also expect us to know the outcome of using the substitutes too !
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