Discrete Low Jitter Clock GB - Page 27 - diyAudio
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Old 5th March 2013, 09:39 PM   #261
amc184 is offline amc184  New Zealand
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Hi guys, I'm on holiday at the moment (skiing in Park City, UT), so my replies will be few and far between.

Personally, I don't find soldering PCBs of this scale too hard. That said, you'd want to use a proper soldering station, a fairly fine tip and a finer diameter solder. I use a Hakko 936 with a 1.2mm chisel tip and Multicore 0.71mm 60/40 solder. With this sort of equipment and the correct technique you'll have no issues with a fine scale PCBs like this clock.

I realise sourcing the components can be tricky in low quantities, which is why I offered kits for the groupbuy (there wasn't much uptake, most people only got PCBs). I might start offering the kits all the time like I currently do with the PCBs, but please realise that it's quite time consuming, and I sell them at cost. If you really run into trouble, do contact me. I may be able to sell you some parts (once I'm back from holiday).

@j baldam: I'm glad your clock is working. The position you picked looks okay, but I'd be careful about using self adhesive standoffs. They're not very secure, it wouldn't take too much of a shock to peel them off. They also tend to lose their grip over time. I'd also think about adding some glue as strain relief where the wires attach to the main PCB (a bit like Marantz has done on many of the connectors). I also wouldn't have socketed the comparator.

The upgraded regulator is a good idea. There's a couple more things I would consider doing:
- Adding damping. There are threads arround on this topic.
- Upgrading the S/P DIF output circuit. Often they're just built as an afterthought to add value to the player, and can really be improved. Designing a transmission line driver isn't a trivial task though.
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Old 5th March 2013, 09:57 PM   #262
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Hi Anton, happy holidays.
I soldered mine with a 30watt iron with quite a large pointy tip, but I managed.
I socket-ed the IC because I didn't want to risk frying it, does it matter much?

I've had a short listen since and initially I've found that the player may be better as a player than a transport now, given that my Dac is chinese modded as per
DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532
This needs more investigation so I'll be doing more comparisons with and without the DAC.
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Old 8th March 2013, 08:09 PM   #263
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Hi, thought I'd post a couple of findings re the clock.
It's performing faultlessly and giving me a lot more ambiance to the sound.
Quieter sounds that cut off previously now go on for longer and music flows better.
It now sounds better for me as a transport and as a bonus my hybrid SACD gold version of Dark side now plays where it would not play on my 6000KI previously.
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Old 8th March 2013, 10:14 PM   #264
amc184 is offline amc184  New Zealand
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Glad to hear you like it, thanks for posting your results.
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Old 24th March 2013, 02:41 PM   #265
syklab is offline syklab  Hong Kong
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Hi Anton,
I want to connect your DLJ clock to replace the 16.93mhz Citizen oscillator which connects to the Xin and Xout of the IC LC78601E from my Shigaclone. Should I connect the low Jitter clock J101.1 to Xin and J101.2 to a Ground point nearby or pin 50 ? The Tent lab part is optional.

Thanks


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Old 26th March 2013, 05:37 AM   #266
amc184 is offline amc184  New Zealand
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@skylab: I'd remove C57 and C58 and solder the clock's signal line to the pad of XO1 connected to pin 61. I'd connect the ground to the via beside XO1s other pad (the via that is above the silkscreen 'C58' on the bottom side).
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Old 14th April 2013, 10:48 PM   #267
Ryssen is offline Ryssen  Sweden
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Where to find HQ crystals 24.576mhz?
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Old 15th April 2013, 06:13 AM   #268
amc184 is offline amc184  New Zealand
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Digikey or element14.
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Old 2nd November 2013, 07:39 PM   #269
Wungun is offline Wungun  Canada
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Are these still available?
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Old 3rd November 2013, 01:16 AM   #270
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Default Phase noise measurement

The phase noise plot using a 11.2896 Citizen CSA.309 Crystal.
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File Type: jpg Clark_Cit_BT.jpg (121.4 KB, 324 views)
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