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#391 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SF Bay Area
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I strongly suggest you you look at the advice for adjusting quiescent levels in the book by Douglas Self (i.e we don't adjust for quiescent current ). This amplifier is a HIJACKED version of his design with trivial modifications.A lot of the advice given here regarding it's operation is just plain incorrect
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#392 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Rudi, Carlos: Completed 2 boards, MKII Supercharged and as expected, they sound greatttttt. I attach a photo and hope it comes through ok.
A couple of assembly notes: 1- mounted the damping coils underneath just for looks, 2- had some problem like Rudi had with shorting to heat sink but with the MJE's not the BD - poor quality shoulder washer or tightened to much! 3- must remember to mount the board MJE with correct pin allignment- board shows BD139 layout. 4- Opted for a trimpot and the MKII lineup for C19/C20 in the end. Also I might get just away using the 10000uf/63V so far so good. If not I'll add a pair off board. Great project, now I wonder what design to go with for the other 2 boards. Thanks again for all your help. Jean |
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#393 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Recife - Brasil Northeast
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Thank you by the nice picture and your opinion about.
regards, Carlos
__________________
Audiophoolery; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7ERMu825m4; Dx Super Etching; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WED3Bvmxepk |
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#394 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
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Jean,
nice job! Thank you for the picture. Sorry. I forgot to mention in my Builder's Manual that you have to flip Q7 by 180 degrees if you do not install an ECB transistor (like BD139) in this place. You will receive strange results else! Enjoy the music now. Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos |
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#395 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
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#396 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
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Dear DX Blame friends,
after adjustment of the quiescent current (to about 50mA) and measurement of the DC voltage on the speaker's output (between 3 and 6 mV), I powered up the 1st channel of my DX Blame MKII: and - Aaarrrgh: Smoke coming from the PCB. I forgot to unsolder the 100 Ohm resistor, that I used during the adjustment procedure, and this resistor melted away .The fuse, that I inserted into the fuse-holder after my adjustments have been completed, is 2A. I measured it; it is o.k. This should have never happened, because the current is flowing through the fuse now! I am using 15.000µF power caps, and the power to the PCB is currently delimited to <60 Watts by means of my light bulk tester. These things are very strange. Has anybody an explanation for what is happening? Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos |
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#397 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Belgium the land of chocolate
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Rudi,
I think it's the current that those powersupply caps are drawing when you fire up the amp the first time.Insert a 5watt 0.1 ohm resistor inline with the DC rails Last edited by meanman1964; 15th May 2011 at 04:14 PM. |
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#398 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
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Patrick,
I have been able to adjust the quiescent current according to Carlos recommendation, I measured very little (2-7mV) DC on the output, ..., the AMP worked as designed during the adjustment phase. When I connected a source and a speaker to it, something happened. Moreover: I am currently no more able to adjust the quiescent current to "low values" (about 50mA). The minimal quiescent current, that I can achieve when I turn the BIAS trim poti to its maximal value (500 Ohm), is about 80mA. This is strange as well. I did a mistake somewhere. But currently I have no idea, where. Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos |
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#399 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
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... or re-definition of Ohm's Law.
The rail-current is not flowing through the fuse (which is intact) - that would be too easy -, but through the 100 Ohm resistor, that I used during the setup procedure, and melts the resistor. I measured the fuse afterwards: it is o.k. http://www.abload.de/img/fusexey2.jpg Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos |
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#400 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Recife - Brasil Northeast
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Maybe you gonna need more compensation because of different transistors and different board.... if you obtain AC in the output, without signal entering, then increase the Miller capacitor till this stops.
Good luck. regards, Carlos
__________________
Audiophoolery; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7ERMu825m4; Dx Super Etching; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WED3Bvmxepk |
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