DX Blame Group Buy - Page 30 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Commercial Sector > Group Buys

Group Buys Members group buys

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 9th March 2011, 05:35 PM   #291
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: HK
Hi Rudi,

I end up decide to order 10pcs, 5 or 6 mono block for my AV system, 4 maybe a trail of full balance mono block, so please resever 10pcs for me.

I refer red and gold as your previous version.

By the way, confirm me once you receive the postage.

P.S. Since I am not log-in fequently, plus I may need to travel a lot for business trip, so please contact me via email, I will email you my email, thanks.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th March 2011, 01:30 PM   #292
diyAudio Member
 
Rudi_Ratlos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
I have been asked, where and how to connect the speakers' wires.

Have a look into the Builder's Manual, page 26, please:

Click the image to open in full size.

Connect the AMP's speaker's output to either the relay input of the LSProt PCB (in case you have bought it as well)
or directly to the speaker's input connector.

In case you have also bought the PSU PCB, connect a speaker's return wire to a connector, marked with a green "star"
(this is the "Starground area") on the PSU's PCB (see the image above, the blue wire).
In case you did not order my PSU PCB, do it the same with your own PSU.

If you have 2 PSU PCBs (Dual-monoblock design), each channel has its own PSU and starground, that does not interfere with the other one.

If you drive the AMP's 2 channels from one PSU, make sure to connect both speaker's return wires to the PSU's starground.

In case you have a metal case (I do not have) and want an ellectrically required and proven Protect Earth connection as well:
drill a hole into the bottom plate of your case and run a thick wire(s) from a starground-connector to this hole and bolt it together with the PE wire.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos

Last edited by Rudi_Ratlos; 11th March 2011 at 01:33 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 09:02 AM   #293
diyAudio Member
 
Rudi_Ratlos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
Dear DX Blame friends,

those of you, who are going to build the SuperCharged version of the DX Blame and will equip it with one or two transformers rated at > 500 (!) Watts totally,
may also want to have a "Soft-Power-On" circuit, that prevents the fuses to be blown due to the high inrush current, that flows,
when you turn you big transformers on.

Here is what you need.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Connect the "hot" wire of your 115VAC resp. 220 VAC mains voltage to Pin 4 of connector X1 and the return wire of the mains to Pin 1 of connector X2.
Connect your transformers to Pins 1-3 of connector X1 resp. Pins 2-4 of connector X2.

The hot wire is connected to connector X3 as well. Insert a switch between the 2 poles of connector X3.
This switch can be a very small, nice-looking one, being capable to switch 220V/250 mA.
This is the switch to turn your AMP on.

The onboard-transformer is a EI30 type, 12 VAC/250mA.

Its output is regulated by a 7812 voltage regulator.
As soon as the 7812 shows 12 VDC at its output, relay K1 (Omron G6C-117P) switches on, and the current is flowing through 2 thermistors
with a total resistance of 44 Ohms, thus delimiting the inrush current to the transformers to about 5A.
(In case you are operating from a 115VAC mains voltage, take 2 thermistors of 10 Ohms each).

The 7812 voltage regulator also provides the voltage for a LM555 timer, that triggers its output at pin 3, as soon as the delay,
defined by R1/C1, has passed.
Then relay K2 will be switched on as well, bypassing the thermistors, and the current can flow without any limitation.

I used 100K/10µF as R1/C1, giving a delay time of about 1 sec.
This time is big enough for the transformers to get "settled", and you do no more be afraid, that any fuse in your house will be blown.

I am using this circuit since several months.

I append the PDF - solder side of the circuit to this post, so you can either etch it yourself or ask an etching company in your country,
if you want to have a "Soft-Power-On-Delay" - PCB.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SPO_brd.pdf (11.7 KB, 29 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 09:21 AM   #294
diyAudio Member
 
Rudi_Ratlos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
Sorry,

I missed to insert a text on the solder side, so you know about the direction of the solder side layout.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SPO_brd.pdf (12.1 KB, 28 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 10:15 AM   #295
diyAudio Member
 
meanman1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Belgium the land of chocolate
Rudi,also for me two amp boards that is the new one with rectifier and caps onboard

Last edited by meanman1964; 12th March 2011 at 10:38 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 10:28 AM   #296
diyAudio Member
 
Rudi_Ratlos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamburg / Germany
The current status:

Click the image to open in full size.

@HotChocolate (CafeNoir): may I have your votes, please?

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 10:30 AM   #297
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
 
peranders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
Blog Entries: 4
Rudi, not so bad but I have a couple remarks.

1 Traces to close to the screwholes, > 8 mm

2 Why don't you swap the primary connections for the transformers?

3 Fater traces for the 230 V nets. Do you plan to use 70 or 105 um copper?

4 It's rather unnecessary to feed the relays with stabilized voltage.

5 The BC557 doesn't need a jumper. Move the 4k7 and let this part be jumper.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ikm2kcki_pax.jpg (71.9 KB, 143 views)
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me
Super Regulator SSR03 Group buy

Last edited by peranders; 12th March 2011 at 10:33 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 10:37 AM   #298
diyAudio Member
 
destroyer X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Recife - Brasil Northeast
Default Rudi, two 350 watts transformers or a single one

able to sustain 700 watts will be better.

This amplifier is informed as a 100/200 watts power amplifiers... and this was made this way in combination with the power supply, a 350 watts transformer will be the limiting factor that will protect output power transistors (only two pairs used to save folks money, to be cheap, to be simple).

If people use 500 watts transformer to each channel, (for instance), the amplifier will be able to put out 65 percent of this power...or something around 330 watts in 4 ohms if the listener tolerate a little distortion.

Power transistors will be forced to work into their limits...and people, sometimes, driver their amplifier hard.... this may damage the amplifier if the guy insert a sustained level of square waves, distorted music from heavy metal guitars or other modern sustained music that is already distorted in the master and added to amplifier distortions at high levels will drive the machine too hard.

I have already measured this power...the amplifier really does that... to limit that huge power, and because my bad L shape adaptors i am using a single 550 watts power transformer...but a 700 watts can be used too.

I do suggest people, to be in the safest side, to bougth two 350 watts transformers or a single 700 watts transformer.

Because of modern music, i do believe people tolerate much more distortion that i had in my imagination ten years ago.... this amplifier with moderate distortions can really put out a lot of watts...a loosen speaker wire will have arcs of voltage jumping from the wire to the connector... and this is a litle bit dangerous....my transformer ratio is conservative and made that way on purpose and premeditated to allow us to use only two pairs in the output.

This power amplifier, cannot operate 2 ohms and not even 3 ohms......users must check their speakers...i have tested with some crazy ones here and i felt the amplifier was beeing forced into the limits when the speaker has some dips, or valleys of impedance because of passive crossovers or the speaker itself and have drops of impedance in some frequency.

I do think i may be a good idea to cut off board to allow people to assemble power transistor direct to the heatsink, to avoid thermal resistance to heat transference.

Please folks, substitute both VAS transistors by MJE15032 to 55 volts models and to BD139 to 35 volts models...keep the 220 ohms first VAS emitter resistance and increase 33 ohms rail resistance wattage to 1 watt...install heatsinks in both VAS transistors to the 55 volts model (Supercharged)

Nice circuit Rudi.

regards,

Carlos
__________________
These words sounds alike English..but they are not.. these are words without meaning, just sounds made by humans; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_7iMHugXM
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 10:39 AM   #299
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
 
peranders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
Blog Entries: 4
Excuse me to butt in but I might arrange a group buy if you guys are interested my softstart.Click the image to open in full size.

The difference between Rudi's and my design is that I don't use a transformer and the delay can't be so long as with a 555 but 600 ms is sufficient for most applications. My design is also "hot", lethal to touch, always.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me
Super Regulator SSR03 Group buy
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2011, 10:43 AM   #300
diyAudio Member
 
destroyer X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Recife - Brasil Northeast
Default Nice board Peranders...i do think he already have a circuit

but for sure yours are beautifull.

regards,

Carlos
__________________
These words sounds alike English..but they are not.. these are words without meaning, just sounds made by humans; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_7iMHugXM
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Dx Blame ST - Builder's thread - post pictures, reviews and comments here please. destroyer X Solid State 1711 17th August 2014 01:37 AM
Tea-Bag's IXYS Depletion Mosfet Group and SemiSouth R100 JFET group buy. Tea-Bag Group Buys 330 20th May 2013 01:03 PM
Dx Blame ES .... based into the Blameless, i am trying a new amplifier destroyer X Solid State 1826 12th February 2011 07:11 AM
Dx Blame ST, operating from 18 to 24 Volts (unloaded) - Class A destroyer X Solid State 51 15th June 2010 10:26 AM
Tuning the DX Blame amplifiers, for newbies... smartx21 Solid State 3 15th May 2010 04:56 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:41 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2