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| View Poll Results: Surface Finish for future PCB´s | |||
| ENIG - Electroless Nickle/Immersion Gold |
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41 | 43.62% |
| Immersion Silver |
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30 | 31.91% |
| Immersion Tin |
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15 | 15.96% |
| OSP - Organic Solderability Preservatives |
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8 | 8.51% |
| Voters: 94. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#841 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Hi to all:
Please let me know your opinion about use Panasonic FM 220/35 on Salas Shunt reg. I´m unable to find Rubycon ZA 220/35, but I have in my hands 10 of 330/35 - it´s critical if I use them? Many thanks for your help, Antonio |
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#842 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oxford
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I've used Panasonic FM in my amplifier as they have slightly higher voltages available. ZA are obsolete but I've been using Rubycon ZLG in place of ZA on most things with excellent results. Best of all, they are a fraction of the cost ;-)
__________________
When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk JA-88D Class A, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
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#843 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Just one more question please:
What about your opinion about Rubycon ZL or ZLH? It´s more easy to find it on eBay than the ZLG! Thank you! |
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#844 |
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Owner and operator of irc.tenettenba.info
diyAudio Member
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Hi I'm considering constructing one of these DAC boards + Optical to I2S converter (Opus WM8804) in the same 1U project box (1U high, 10 inches deep), however.
I need it ALL to run from 12v-13.5v DC (Float SLA voltage) as I would like to use it in a mobile studio setup and I like to have my equipment run from a DC UPS system. So, wasting as little amount of power as possible on capacitors and linear regulators would be ideal. Also noise is an issue... Can I get some suggestions on what to use for a DC-DC converter which would be suitable for the dac? Btw I've tried finding the schematic in the thread, but the link is dead? Also, seeing as I'm super-poor I was hoping for a cheap buffer stage kit too, any suggestions on what to use for that? Transistor is fine, though a starved heater buffer stage would be nice. I should also add that I do not have much experience with DAC's, however I can build complex kits within an hour or so, I feel confident in tackling this project, its just that budget and enclosure constraints are limited. Last edited by freax; 14th October 2012 at 08:19 AM. |
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#845 |
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Owner and operator of irc.tenettenba.info
diyAudio Member
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Nevermind, I just found out about the red baron, far better and more compact for what I want, imho.
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#846 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Minnesota
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Hi everyone.
I'm finishing up the Red Baron dac board. I'm already running the Tube-I-zator (latest version and the 1st generation dac board). I'm not installing the MOSFET Buffer I/V stage parts, and I see from the pictures that the signal out is then taken from the (L/R) Master/Slave output next to the TDA1541A dac chip on the Red Baron board. Doesn't this need a ref (or ground) as well , or am I not seeing something? Could it be that the REF is taken from under the Red Baron board to the Tube-I-zator? Thanks, Chris |
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#847 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
look here to my grounding scheme: ![]() If you connect it like this with a star GND, you could use the GND of the Tube-i-Zator for the RCA-GND connction. I hope this answer your question.
__________________
Reference TDA1541A DAC project PCB´s / Tube-I-zator PCB / SSHV-Shunt PCB
Stock status in my Blog |
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#848 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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The screen from the main transformer should connect with a very short lead to the main enclosing metal box (Faraday cage), not a long lead to the star ground (Main Audio Ground).
I don't understand why each regulator has a separated power supply wire from the return supply wire. Surely the flow and return of each regulator should be a twisted pair into the part of the DAC that consumes current. Note also that all the wires feeding current have no return route associated with them. They must all be circuits and MUST have a flow and return. Showing anything less is confusing. Last edited by AndrewT; 20th October 2012 at 10:43 AM. |
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#849 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indonesia
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Hi Oliver
Looks like your DAC didnt have any change now this is the perfect time to start solder BTW i just have Tubeizator, DAC, shunt & hv (no need supply pcb) what is the other pcb i need to complete this ? (i saw a little pcb in the middle of your big picture) btw BOM this DAC can not see again (look blur) in this thread maybe you need to attach them Best regards |
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#850 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
the small pcb above the DAC V2.3 is the I2S switch (USB/SPDIF). All BOM´s you will find in my blog HERE.
__________________
Reference TDA1541A DAC project PCB´s / Tube-I-zator PCB / SSHV-Shunt PCB
Stock status in my Blog |
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