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Old 25th February 2011, 11:53 AM   #491
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Jeez, how many "DAC-1"s are there in the world?

I like "The Fat Lady". It sounds like a good name for a beautiful wooden boat. The only problem for me is it creates an image in my mind of a rather horribly obese woman, not the opera singer you perhaps had in mind.

So, we need a name with allusions to:

German, Phillips, DIYAudio, Oliver, Salas, Lukas "Lampizator" Fikus, TDA1541a, 6N6P, LARGENESS....etc

Consider:

"The Olivator" hehe

Also, because the main designers of the DAC's main features come from Greece (Salas), Holland (TDA1541a), Poland (Lukas Fikus), Germany (Oliver), Russia (6N6P), (and ignoring for a second that most of the parts are made (and also perhaps designed) in Japan and China) it is notable that this is a very European DAC.

"EuroDAC"???

On the other hand, the name Oliver means:

Oliver \o-li-ver\ as a boy's name is pronounced AH-lih-ver. It is of Latin origin, and the meaning of Oliver is "olive tree". Name of one of Charlemagne's knights in the 12th-century poem "Chanson de Roland". Also possibly from Alfihar (Old German) "host of elves" or Olafr (Old Norse) "ancestor". Biblical: the olive tree is a symbol of fruitfulness, beauty, and dignity. Today "extending an olive branch" traditionally signifies an offer of peace. Literary: the title character in Dickens' "Oliver Twist". Film director Oliver Stone; actor Oliver Platt.

Note that in old norse, Olafr means "ancestor" which is indeed relevant because this DAC uses a trusty old DAC, the ancestor of all others (except 1540, but that can be used in this DAC without issue) so we are dealing with the "Abraham", the ancestor of all DACs.

So I will be naming it in honour of the ancient "common ancestor" DAC chip and also the most helpful Oliver in realising this project...

Olafr - the ancestor DAC
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Last edited by LucasAdamson; 25th February 2011 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 25th February 2011, 01:31 PM   #492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasAdamson View Post
Jeez, how many "DAC-1"s are there in the world?

I like "The Fat Lady". It sounds like a good name for a beautiful wooden boat. The only problem for me is it creates an image in my mind of a rather horribly obese woman, not the opera singer you perhaps had in mind.

So, we need a name with allusions to:

German, Phillips, DIYAudio, Oliver, Salas, Lukas "Lampizator" Fikus, TDA1541a, 6N6P, LARGENESS....etc

Consider:

"The Olivator" hehe

Also, because the main designers of the DAC's main features come from Greece (Salas), Holland (TDA1541a), Poland (Lukas Fikus), Germany (Oliver), Russia (6N6P), (and ignoring for a second that most of the parts are made (and also perhaps designed) in Japan and China) it is notable that this is a very European DAC.

"EuroDAC"???

On the other hand, the name Oliver means:

Oliver \o-li-ver\ as a boy's name is pronounced AH-lih-ver. It is of Latin origin, and the meaning of Oliver is "olive tree". Name of one of Charlemagne's knights in the 12th-century poem "Chanson de Roland". Also possibly from Alfihar (Old German) "host of elves" or Olafr (Old Norse) "ancestor". Biblical: the olive tree is a symbol of fruitfulness, beauty, and dignity. Today "extending an olive branch" traditionally signifies an offer of peace. Literary: the title character in Dickens' "Oliver Twist". Film director Oliver Stone; actor Oliver Platt.

Note that in old norse, Olafr means "ancestor" which is indeed relevant because this DAC uses a trusty old DAC, the ancestor of all others (except 1540, but that can be used in this DAC without issue) so we are dealing with the "Abraham", the ancestor of all DACs.

So I will be naming it in honour of the ancient "common ancestor" DAC chip and also the most helpful Oliver in realising this project...

Olafr - the ancestor DAC
Jesus Christ...What a brainstorming. Chapeau!

Thats a cool naming: Olafr - the ancestor DAC
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Old 25th February 2011, 04:58 PM   #493
Malka07 is offline Malka07  England
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Default UPDATE

On wednesday i spent most of the day removing the tl431 shunt section from both my Dac Boards, then i Cut the boards in order to make the connections from Salas Shunts to Dac Boards Short, Drilled some holes in the boards to Mount the boards ontop of each other and to chassis. And then Spent a long time problem solving why things were not working...

Here is a picture of the modified Boards and a list of things i had to do to get it all working.

Click the image to open in full size.

On the picture you can see numbers 1-4

Here i will describe what they are.

1) This connection (yellow line) needed to be added to supply the -15v through the 2k2 resistors to pins 16,17 of the tda1541a dac chip

2/3) Because the board was cut the Red Ground lines(3) were no longer grounding the Tda1541a Chip, so a connection as indicated by the black line(2) was added.

4) whilst desoldering this tl431, all 3 pins were soldered together on the board causing a short on the salas shunts...it caused a voltage difference of 2v between digital ground and anolog ground...severe hum the result and also when i tried connecting the grounds together (anolog and digital) the +5v(digital) dropped to 3.83v...this was solved eventually by finding the short at the (removed) tl431 pins on board and desoldering so that all pins were seperated.

Soooooo enough of how i did it, how does it sound? is it better then with the tl431 shunts on board? well the answer is a BIG YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

From the first 3 notes coming out of the speakers i knew it was much much better sounding then with the tl431's (this also confirmed by people i played music to, saying 'WOW' out loud within the first 3 notes being played!!!) the soundstage is deeper, wider higher, very 3d sounding, lots of air inbetween instruments, there location is now easily identifiable, detail amazingly has also improved (i thought it was already very detailed) now i hear things i never did before. Even the bass sounds better more tuneful, more in harmony to the rest of the other frequencies, Treble too has improved, cymbals etc sound real...I HIGHLY RECOMMEND Supplying this dac direct with the Salas Shunts. Lucas is right...this Dac (whatever is will eventually be called) Sounds SUBLIME.

So how about the Olafr Sublime Dac...hehehe

OLIVER you HAVE to do this MOD...you will not be dissapointed.

So what next? well next i will cut any traces onboard that are not needed anymore...(will also take more pictures, so that others who want to do this mod can find it more easy to do.

Alon
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Old 26th February 2011, 02:40 AM   #494
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Alon - I'm glad you agree that it's a worthwhile mod. Like I said already, I can't say I conducted a fair comparison, because I wasn't burned in at all when I did the mod, but it certainly is quite logical and I'm sure a better DAC for it.

It is a bloody messy business though, I'm sure you'll agree, and not very tidy looking, but also quite possible to make structurally sound.

For anybody wanting to do this mod, you will need to saw your DAC board in half - both of them if you have a twin DAC like me (I used a sliding De-Walt chop-saw to get a lovely clean cut), cut some traces, (I find it satisfying to peel the excess trace off too) scrape the mask a bit over the trace to create a pad and solder onto it, like this:

Click the image to open in full size.

Ah yes, the two thin blue traces that I have put question marks by - they need to be connected together with the 2x 2.2K resistors, as they are in the original circuit. This image is from when I was asking Oliver to confirm that I was on the right track, and he set me straight about those resistors.

Personally, I removed the master/slave traces, as they're not really necessary at all - you can link the two board's outputs at the main output terminals and reduce signal wire length. Also, I feel with a twin output (parallel) DAC, you really want identical signal lengths, for a correct time constant, though perhaps that's a bit paranoid, seeing as the signals are travelling at the speed of light... :P
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Old 26th February 2011, 10:20 AM   #495
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Hi Alon and Lucas,

very interesting modification!
For those who dont want to cut the DAC module, i have made a nice overview for the modification:


Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 26th February 2011, 10:36 AM   #496
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I have not yet started populating the boards and was going with the non-TL431 version - it seems to me that it is possible to position/stack the shunt boards over the top of the dac board(s) and get very short leads to the points indicated by Oliver.

Would I be right in thinking that no tracks would need to be cut in that case?
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Old 26th February 2011, 10:50 AM   #497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanElsdon View Post
I have not yet started populating the boards and was going with the non-TL431 version - it seems to me that it is possible to position/stack the shunt boards over the top of the dac board(s) and get very short leads to the points indicated by Oliver.

Would I be right in thinking that no tracks would need to be cut in that case?
Thats correct.
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Old 26th February 2011, 11:18 AM   #498
Malka07 is offline Malka07  England
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I chose to solder the salas shunts to the 220uf decoupling caps for 3 reasons..
1. Soldering the positive and ground(salas shunt) to the tl431 pins is difficult as the 3 pins are very close to each other and it's easy to create a short.
2. The tl431 pins are tiny, so it's difficult to use thick cable, which salas recommends. Also the solder points can easily lift of the board here.
3. I wanted to keep the positive and ground wires of same length...soldering to the 220uf decoupling cap enabled this.

I do not need to cut any tracks..it's just me being finicky!! Means I can sleep better at night

Forgot to mention before that now with the salas shunts I can dial in the voltages exactly -15v, -5v, +5v, +5v and they are very stable..previously with tl431's it was impossible to do, voltages were all over the place.

Also forgot to say that now notes from certain instruments(piano..etc) now hang in the air beautifully till they decay away..very nice indeed.

Alon
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Old 26th February 2011, 01:16 PM   #499
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I recommend 0.6mm solid core silver wire for the power connections from the shunts. I also agree that connecting to the old TL431 holes is impractical and suggest scraping a nice centimetre line of trace and soldering a silver wire to it, for strength and electrical solidity.

Otherwise, I'm guessing Oliver has considered this mod, and if he decides to do this for himself, he will perhaps consider designing a new smaller board, or am I wrong Oliver?
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Old 26th February 2011, 01:29 PM   #500
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I guess 0.6 solid core should fit in hole of the tl431 without shorting. Maybe drill some mount holes so that the shunt boards can be mounted on top of the tda board. Very short connections
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