The pallet should be filled very soon. I will ask them how much more room is on the pallet. I'll let it go just a bit longer, then order some items to fill it the rest of the way up.
I do have you down for two JMLC-350's in white with the 1.4" throat.
If anyone wants anything, or thinks they will in the near future, please let me know as soon as you can.
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Having missed the last boat, I'd like to get in on this shipment! The website says they can make horns with the RAL color system. Can they can make the RAL 9005 matte black? I see in at least one photo a smaller horn that's matte finish, not gloss. Anyway, I want in but I need a little assistance with the paperwork and funds transfer. Please let me know at your earliest convenience how to proceed. Can't wait!
My goal is to stay away from the high gloss finish. I'm currently using stereo-lab horns and I like their finish enough that I designed the new bass bins' color scheme with that flat black in mind. I looked up Nextel and I'm not sure I need its "suede" texture but if you think that's the best chance to get a good finish surface, I'll certainly consider it. As I wrote above, though, my main goal is to avoid gloss. Flat, matte, dull, whatever we call it, this is my preference. Also, to keep the added cost for color in the 10% region. Thanks!
Geddes has really nothing to gain and he has consistently been negative for years. Negative about everything that is not his own and he definitely has no chance in the style department. He actually thinks people buy for sceince over style
He sold wavegeuides that looked home made for $400I asked why $400 once and he ranted on about thats what it cost...I called BS then and I was proven right by the offerings now.
I think we hurt his feelings when saying these are the best looking waveguides
I have a tax rebate coming my way, and have been eager to blow it on some audio stuff. And I was looking at the offerings at Jacek's (sp?) site.
But I really can't come up with a single good reason to get rid of my Summas. And keep in mind, I was one of those neurotic hobbyists who was NEVER satisfied with his toys. I have six bicycyles and two cars, and despite writing thousands of posts about car audio I don't have a stereo in either one of my cars. (I can't find one that I'm happy with.)
I've been running Summas continuously for over three years now, and this is the only time in my life when I've had the same set of speakers for more than three months in a row.
I know that it's lots of fun to screw around with audio, but lately I've been messing with my bikes more than my stereo, simply because I can't really do anything to improve my Summas.
I know that's kind of a boring review, I wish I could talk about how they excel at midrange purity or extended treble or something. At this point they just do everything I need them to do. The only thing I'd change is their damn size, they are big and opressive and heavy.
I guess the only real downside to owning Gedlee Summas is that you'll have to find a new hobby. Portland is a great city to be a bicyclist, and I'm really enjoying my new hobby.
How much did you pay for your Summas? The Gedlee site now has the Abbeys for ~$4,000 as a kit ($5000 assembled). The Summas price is not indicated but I'd bet they're somewhere around $8,000.
I've noticed that the 18" SEOSs' sonograms appear to be even better that the Summas. A DIYer could probably assemble a pair of the 18" for less than $2000 using high quality components. Perhaps you should sell your Summas, participate in the group buy and take the $$$$ you save and buy some more bicycles.
How much did you pay for your Summas? The Gedlee site now has the Abbeys for ~$4,000 as a kit ($5000 assembled). The Summas price is not indicated but I'd bet they're somewhere around $8,000.
Perhaps you should sell your Summas, participate in the group buy and take the $$$$ you save and buy some more bicycles.
Up until I bought the Summas I found that a lot of my audio projects were a half-assed pile of parts. So when the project was done, I'd ended up flushing a few hundred dollars down the toilet.
My unity horn projects are a good example of this. Between various midranges, compression drivers, and crossover parts, I easily spent a thousand dollars.
After spending a thousand dollars on my Unity horns, I probably listened to them for about fifty hours. So thats, what, $20 per hour?
And because my Unity horns were an ugly pile of parts, I would be lucky if I was able to sell the bits and pieces for $200.
Compare this to the Summas. They retail for $8000. I listen to them for 8-12 hours a day, 5-7 days a week. I've had them for over a thousand days now. Let's call it 10hrs a day, for 850 days. That's 8500 hours, at a cost of less than a buck an hour.
But the best reason, hell the ONLY reason I could justify this kind of investment is that I'll probably recoup at least half of my investment IF i want to sell. Geddes has done a nice job of publicizing his product.
I've sold quite a bit of stuff on Craigslist and eBay, and I've generally found that "classic" and "collectable" items get 75-125% of their original value.
In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if I could get a hundred percent of what I paid for these IF i wanted to sell.
Here's how I ended up buying them:
I emailed Geddes about the 12" version. He had a waiting list, and I had a check burning a hole in my pocket that I wanted to spend. Rather than wait a few months, I bought what he had, which was the Summa.
I know a ton of guys just like me in the software biz, guys who occassionally get the bug to buy a toy, and end up with a ten thousand dollar bicycle or a thirty thousand dollar boat. Even if the Gedlee speakers didn't sound good, I am going to get a heck of a lot more use out of them than I would from a bike or a boat. Hell, there is literally nothing in my entire house that I use more than his speakers. (Well, I guess my chair and my laptop?)
I spend more time with my Summas than I do with my girlfriend or my family :O
I've probably listened to Summas more than Geddes has
I'm sorry to ask potentially 'really dumb' questions, but I suspect I haven't been following along carefully enough.
- Where can I see colour/coating pics? (I'm very interested in matte/suede black)
- Do I just order on DIY Sound Group ?
- Are these shipping outside USA? (I'm in Australia)
(I'm talking about the SEOS-15 if it makes any difference)
Thanks :-D (All involved, your work is MUCH appreciated)
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You can choose any of the RAL( http://www.ralcolor.com/colors) colors for extra $....10%. Matt colors I don't know.
Here you can see matte/suede black:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/166312-waveguides-horns-58.html#post2596973
We can ship directly or by DIY Sound Group.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/166312-waveguides-horns-58.html#post2596973
We can ship directly or by DIY Sound Group.
Group Buy
Erich, I would like to get in on the current group buy pallet. Please let me know how to proceed (PayPal etc.) and where I should sign up.
Would like a pair of the JMLC1000 in blue and a pair of the Iwata 300 in white.
In reference to the Iwata 300 I'm looking for suggestions from other members on the advantages or disadvantages of a 1.4" vs 1" vs 2.0" compression driver when used in a 2 way system WITHOUT an additional super tweeter.
Thank you, Daniel.
Erich, I would like to get in on the current group buy pallet. Please let me know how to proceed (PayPal etc.) and where I should sign up.
Would like a pair of the JMLC1000 in blue and a pair of the Iwata 300 in white.
In reference to the Iwata 300 I'm looking for suggestions from other members on the advantages or disadvantages of a 1.4" vs 1" vs 2.0" compression driver when used in a 2 way system WITHOUT an additional super tweeter.
Thank you, Daniel.
Go to augerpro's (Brandons) site and look at the data he's measured. Even the best compression drivers go to hell in the top octave. You'll see the problem in the CSD plot - it's basically swamped with resonances.
There are two ways to improve performance:
#1 - improve the diaphragm. For instance, use beryllium instead of aluminum.
#2 - use a smaller diaphragm
A BMS compression driver and a JBL compression driver. The throat size is identical. The diaphragm size is not. The BMS is light years ahead of the JBL from 5khz to 20khz, even when the JBL has been upgraded. The JBL is light years ahead of the BMS from 1000hz to 2000hz, so there's still no free lunch, and they are both good drivers.
In addition to the size of the throat, you also might consider the size of the diaphragm, the geometry of the phase plug, and the geometry of the diaphragm.
IMHO, even a three inch diaphragm is a bit too large. I have personally found that the very small compression drivers sound noticeably better in the top octave than conventional compression drivers that have 3" diaphragms and 1" throats. For instance, the BMS 4540 and the Celestion CDX1-1425 both have diaphragms which are about the size of a conventional dome tweeter. And you can see the difference in the CSD - the data is right there on Brandon's site.
The downside is power handling and xover frequency, of course.
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color selection
I found the color chart to be at the following link:
RAL Color Chart | www.RALcolor.com
...slightly different than the link posted above
HTH
I found the color chart to be at the following link:
RAL Color Chart | www.RALcolor.com
...slightly different than the link posted above
HTH
1" vs 1.4" vs 2.0" comp drivers
Thanks for the response Patrick. I have a Geddes based speaker that uses the B&C DE 250 1" comp driver and I really like it. My thoughts on the Iwata 300 based system is to use a 1.4" comp driver as a compromise. Good extension out to at least 10k and one that would also allow me a lower crossover to take advantage of the waveguides directivity below 1000Hz. Also I much prefer the sound of the polymer diaphragm comp drivers that I have heard over the titanium ones. Although I haven't heard the beryllium ones.
Has anyone heard/used any of the Faital Pro drivers like the HF144 ?
Thanks, Daniel.
Thanks for the response Patrick. I have a Geddes based speaker that uses the B&C DE 250 1" comp driver and I really like it. My thoughts on the Iwata 300 based system is to use a 1.4" comp driver as a compromise. Good extension out to at least 10k and one that would also allow me a lower crossover to take advantage of the waveguides directivity below 1000Hz. Also I much prefer the sound of the polymer diaphragm comp drivers that I have heard over the titanium ones. Although I haven't heard the beryllium ones.
Has anyone heard/used any of the Faital Pro drivers like the HF144 ?
Thanks, Daniel.
Erich, sorry I need to change that group buy request to a pair of E-jmlc 1000 in blue. I left off the elliptical part.
Jzagaja, can you clarify the "ring radiator " and "Beyma studio" reference ?
I would definitely be interested in a E-jmlc 300 but haven't seen any measurements or examples of it being used yet. (?)
What type of crossovers are being used with the coaxial 2" BMS ?
Thanks, Daniel.
Jzagaja, can you clarify the "ring radiator " and "Beyma studio" reference ?
I would definitely be interested in a E-jmlc 300 but haven't seen any measurements or examples of it being used yet. (?)
What type of crossovers are being used with the coaxial 2" BMS ?
Thanks, Daniel.