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Tube-I-zator Professional PCB

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pinnocchio

pinnocchio

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Joined 2010
quebecdiy.forumactif.com/
headrott said:
Any news yet on this Do? Interested in ordering some 2575's tomorrow depending on your review. Thanks again and sorry for the added pressure.:bomb:

Greg
Click to expand...

Hi Greg,

I must be a really good guy since after a long weekend of non-stop renovations I still found the time to get this done about 2 hours ago...

I can only listen at low level at this time since the kids are asleep so I'm keeping the noise floor low...

For what I can tell so far, at low level it seems a little better but the real test will be at moderate levels which I will run in the morning.

I will let this run all night for some burn in and to make sure it stays at the right temperature (Aleph 5 in class A). Then I will run this through a series of listenings and will let you know.

Thanks
Do
 
pinnocchio

pinnocchio

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Joined 2010
quebecdiy.forumactif.com/
For anyone interested in the Buffalo II/III implementation with the nice Tube-I-Zator, here my conclusion of the R I/V resistor change.

Initially I tried the 56R resistor at R I/V since I didn't know which value would actually work well here. Did some tests and using the Volumite on my Dual Mono BII I was getting some pretty good sound at low levels, however at mid levels and up I was getting the whole music track extremely busy, as if all instruments were mashed together, no more sense of air and bass was taking over everything... Not really pleasing!

After talking to Russ White from TPA, he gave me some pointers about what those values should be. Anything between 21R and 32R would be his recommendation.

I have ordered some 32R TX-2575 resistors and removed the 56R and replaced them with 32R. Let the Tube run all night and did some listening tests this morning for about 1 hour at different sound levels.

Here's my conclusion in short:

WOW! :eek:

Here's my detailed conclusion:

Much wider soundstage and no sense of air loss at low, mid and mid high listening levels.
I also found that it is also very quiet now. Although last night I had an episode of wind draft coming from my left side... I swapped the tubes from one Tube-I-Zator to the other and voila! Magic, no more wind blowing through my ears! :D
There a little less bass but it is still punchy. I believe it is at the right level now and this could have been the cause of having all instruments mashed up together before. I could not listen to contrebase, i mean many tracks were just non-listenable at mid levels.
Now fine detailed are all there in their glory and positioning is also better. Sometimes I had voice centered at correct height then piano almost on the floor, etc... Was weird... Now it all seems fine!

Keep in mind that I'm running dual mono BII + dual tube-i-zator and using the volumite (volume is controlled directly from the BII, not preamp). I should in fact have twice the current output in dual mono.

Anyways, 32R works good for me

Ciao!
Do
 
H

headrott

Member
Joined 2010
Thanks Do for your impressions of the 32R TX2575 resistors. I decided to try some 28R TX2575 resistors in my balanced Tube-I-Zator boards. I will let you know my impressions after I recieve them. I should get them in a week Janet at Texas Components said. Aslo, what tubes are you using in you boards? I know they are 12Ax7's, but what brand, year(s), getter type, etc.?

I would also like to see a softstart in revised Tube-I-Zator board if Oliver does another one.

Greg
 
pinnocchio

pinnocchio

Member
Joined 2010
quebecdiy.forumactif.com/
headrott said:
Thanks Do for your impressions of the 32R TX2575 resistors. I decided to try some 28R TX2575 resistors in my balanced Tube-I-Zator boards. I will let you know my impressions after I recieve them. I should get them in a week Janet at Texas Components said. Aslo, what tubes are you using in you boards? I know they are 12Ax7's, but what brand, year(s), getter type, etc.?

I would also like to see a softstart in revised Tube-I-Zator board if Oliver does another one.

Greg
Click to expand...

Hi Greg,

Here are the specs

http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/tjfm_12ax7.pdf

Those TJ Full Music are the best of the best for 12AX7

Ciao!
Do
 
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pinnocchio

pinnocchio

Member
Joined 2010
quebecdiy.forumactif.com/
Wwan said:
Hi guys,

I look thru ebay and some stated 6n1p= to 9622. I have 2 6922 and plan to use it for a start. If using it is possible, should I do any changes on anything?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

To use 6922, you will have to set the switch at 6N1P position. The 6N1P can only work at 150V and over. The 6922 however is much more flexible... They are pin compatible but I have not tried yet. I would buy some cheap 6922 (6DJ8, E88CC) just to make sure it all works... I have some E88CC tubes at home but they're running on my preamp... Also note the the filament section of the 6N1P is more current hungry then the 6922 (~600mA vs ~365mA)

Thanks
Do
 
A

albertob

Member
Joined 2009
Hello,
I'm building the tube-i-Zator for my buffalo II DAC.
Now I have all welded components. A couple of questions:

- The regulator for the heater and the mosfets irf (shunt) must be isolated from the heatsink?

- What is the process for adjusting the SSHV and pcb tube-i-Zator before placing the valves?

Thanks for the help

AL
 
pinnocchio

pinnocchio

Member
Joined 2010
quebecdiy.forumactif.com/
headrott said:
I have used some 6922 tubes (Siemens CCa's actually) in the Tube-I-Zator. They work fine. I love the flexability of the Tube-I-Zator.

Greg
Click to expand...

I just tried my Mullard E88CC (6922) with the switch set to 6N1P and I'm getting a really loud strident sound coming out of the speakers...

How did you get them to work on yours?

Did you get your resistors yet?

Ciao!
Do
 
pinnocchio

pinnocchio

Member
Joined 2010
quebecdiy.forumactif.com/
albertob said:
Hello,
I'm building the tube-i-Zator for my buffalo II DAC.
Now I have all welded components. A couple of questions:

- The regulator for the heater and the mosfets irf (shunt) must be isolated from the heatsink?

- What is the process for adjusting the SSHV and pcb tube-i-Zator before placing the valves?

Thanks for the help

AL
Click to expand...

For the SSHV you just have to omit the tubes for now, power it and probe the output (black probe to GND and red probe to Output) and turn the pot slowly until you reach about 150V. It will move over time as the mosfets get hotter. re-adjust the voltage after about 15 minutes. Make sure you read DC Volts.

For the heater, don't put in the tubes and power it. On your probe set to DC, black probe on star ground (middle hole on Tube-I-Zator PCB) and red probe on on 124R resistor near the regulator where you see the arrow with 6.3V. Turn the pot slowly until you reach 6.3V.

If all is ok, hookup the tubes and test!

Ciao!
Do
 
pinnocchio

pinnocchio

Member
Joined 2010
quebecdiy.forumactif.com/
albertob said:
thanks Pinocchio, seems easy.
Do the sinks have to isolate them from the irf?
Click to expand...

I would isolate them since you can always short them with the case, srewdriver... I would not take a chance... It is not mandatory but highly recommended! ;)

You know there's one of the 220uF/450V that you do not connect if using the Salas Shunt. There's a few pictures on this thread.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/156149-tube-i-zator-professional-pcb-55.html

There's some of my pictures in there to guide you.

Ciao!
Do
 
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