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Old 6th March 2013, 08:30 PM   #741
DQ828 is offline DQ828  Australia
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DVD

Crom just made me aware of the Rohpoint GG102A resistors that you are recommending

Do you have any idea what value would be suitable for BIII as the I/V resistors?

Also in the attached photo's it shows little brass stand offs, do you know what they are called I'm having trouble finding them?
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Old 6th March 2013, 10:42 PM   #742
Crom is offline Crom  United Kingdom
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DQ828, Phew, glad you saw that tb1- tb2 connection that was needed -that's what I was trying to point out to you a while back. Make sure it happens on the tube side as per picture.

Re the I/V resistor, I'm using stock 56R and it sounds lovely. Russ / Brian from Twisted pear seem to recommend experimenting from 20R-32R so I've bought a few options which I'll be trying over the next week or so. I'll report back. I think the difference that you should notice is that it distorts (or you lose separation between the instruments) when you play it loud. I think it has something to do with the ability to deal with voltage swings. However, if someone can explain the logic behind the values I'm all ears ;-)
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Old 7th March 2013, 12:06 AM   #743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crom View Post
DQ828, Phew, glad you saw that tb1- tb2 connection that was needed -that's what I was trying to point out to you a while back. Make sure it happens on the tube side as per picture.
Yes, thank you, I was torn between advice.
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Old 7th March 2013, 12:54 AM   #744
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I was using 30R and it sounded better than 56R in my tests.

BTW, if anyone wants a Tube-I-Zator, I'm selling mine. I changed my entire DAC so it is available.

Don't get me wrong, it is an absolute amazing I/V but I decided to leave tubes for a while. In all I have built 4 of the Tube-I-Zator!

I had a balanced setup but one is already sold. I'm using ClarityCAP MR on coupling and TX-2575 for R I/V (x2) and Rk (x4). Salas SSHV2 for high tension and the Tubes are TJ Full Music 12AX7. All parts are very good quality.

See here : FS : Tube-I-Zator DAC IV

See here for my first two boards using DVBProjekt / Salas SSHV1 post #543
Tube-I-zator Professional PCB

Thanks
Do
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Old 7th March 2013, 01:42 AM   #745
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Default OT question...

In the photo of post #741, where can I get the little sockets the resistors are plugged into? They look ideal (as their use in the photo suggests) to swap things and test them without soldering/desoldering. Thanks.
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Old 7th March 2013, 06:59 AM   #746
DQ828 is offline DQ828  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmito View Post
In the photo of post #741, where can I get the little sockets the resistors are plugged into? They look ideal (as their use in the photo suggests) to swap things and test them without soldering/desoldering. Thanks.

That's what I want to know
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Old 7th March 2013, 08:57 AM   #747
DQ828 is offline DQ828  Australia
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Well with the yellow wire in place it makes no difference to the voltage, The SSHV Vin is reading 161V & the Vout is reading 151V DC this is after about 20min with the tubes in place.

I still have one very hot heat sink & one luck warn, if fact it may be picking it's heat up from the heat sink beside it, as you don't need to put you finger on it to know it's hot ouch.
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Old 7th March 2013, 01:02 PM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQ828 View Post
Well with the yellow wire in place it makes no difference to the voltage, The SSHV Vin is reading 161V & the Vout is reading 151V DC this is after about 20min with the tubes in place.

I still have one very hot heat sink & one luck warn, if fact it may be picking it's heat up from the heat sink beside it, as you don't need to put you finger on it to know it's hot ouch.
The different temperatures on the heatsinks are normal. In our configuration we have a power dissipation of ~5.8W for IRF840 and ~1.2W for IRF9610.

Click the image to open in full size.

With the usage of R1=56R (current adj.) we get a constant current of ~40mA.
If everything is ok, the SSHV input voltage should be ~180VDC.

I remember that one member had a problem with his transformer, witch wasnt able to get a stable voltage for 40mA current...

Anyway, how changes your input voltage, when you turn the output voltage slowly down?
Perhaps we must lower the resistor value in the C-R-C filter a bit, to get more input voltage to the SSHV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DQ828 View Post
And lastly is it normal for the heater elements to glow brightly for about a second when you first turn it on?
The heater flash on startup is normal for a wide family of tubes. Nothing to worry about.
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Last edited by dvb projekt; 7th March 2013 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 7th March 2013, 04:13 PM   #749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQ828 View Post
Also in the attached photo's it shows little brass stand offs, do you know what they are called I'm having trouble finding them?
Get normal 2.54mm component straight sockets like the Mill-Max 310...001 series. Get rid of the plastic and you could use the pins as on my photo
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Old 7th March 2013, 04:25 PM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvb-projekt View Post
Get normal 2.54mm component straight sockets like the Mill-Max 310...001 series. Get rid of the plastic and you could use the pins as on my photo
Thank you so much, this would have saved a couple of PCB's lives had I used them...
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