Tube-I-zator Professional PCB - Page 75

DQ828 · 6th March 2013, 08:30 PM

DVD

Crom just made me aware of the Rohpoint GG102A resistors that you are recommending

Do you have any idea what value would be suitable for BIII as the I/V resistors?

Also in the attached photo's it shows little brass stand offs, do you know what they are called I'm having trouble finding them?

Crom · 6th March 2013, 10:42 PM

DQ828, Phew, glad you saw that tb1- tb2 connection that was needed -that's what I was trying to point out to you a while back. Make sure it happens on the tube side as per picture.

Re the I/V resistor, I'm using stock 56R and it sounds lovely. Russ / Brian from Twisted pear seem to recommend experimenting from 20R-32R so I've bought a few options which I'll be trying over the next week or so. I'll report back. I think the difference that you should notice is that it distorts (or you lose separation between the instruments) when you play it loud. I think it has something to do with the ability to deal with voltage swings. However, if someone can explain the logic behind the values I'm all ears ;-)

DQ828 · 7th March 2013, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crom

DQ828, Phew, glad you saw that tb1- tb2 connection that was needed -that's what I was trying to point out to you a while back. Make sure it happens on the tube side as per picture.

Yes, thank you, I was torn between advice.

pinnocchio · 7th March 2013, 12:54 AM

I was using 30R and it sounded better than 56R in my tests.

BTW, if anyone wants a Tube-I-Zator, I'm selling mine. I changed my entire DAC so it is available.

Don't get me wrong, it is an absolute amazing I/V but I decided to leave tubes for a while. In all I have built 4 of the Tube-I-Zator!

I had a balanced setup but one is already sold. I'm using ClarityCAP MR on coupling and TX-2575 for R I/V (x2) and Rk (x4). Salas SSHV2 for high tension and the Tubes are TJ Full Music 12AX7. All parts are very good quality.

See here : FS : Tube-I-Zator DAC IV

See here for my first two boards using DVBProjekt / Salas SSHV1 post #543
Tube-I-zator Professional PCB

Thanks
Do

palmito · 7th March 2013, 01:42 AM

In the photo of post #741, where can I get the little sockets the resistors are plugged into? They look ideal (as their use in the photo suggests) to swap things and test them without soldering/desoldering. Thanks.

DQ828 · 7th March 2013, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmito

In the photo of post #741, where can I get the little sockets the resistors are plugged into? They look ideal (as their use in the photo suggests) to swap things and test them without soldering/desoldering. Thanks.

That's what I want to know

DQ828 · 7th March 2013, 08:57 AM

Well with the yellow wire in place it makes no difference to the voltage, The SSHV Vin is reading 161V & the Vout is reading 151V DC this is after about 20min with the tubes in place.

I still have one very hot heat sink & one luck warn, if fact it may be picking it's heat up from the heat sink beside it, as you don't need to put you finger on it to know it's hot ouch.

dvb-projekt · 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DQ828

Well with the yellow wire in place it makes no difference to the voltage, The SSHV Vin is reading 161V & the Vout is reading 151V DC this is after about 20min with the tubes in place.

I still have one very hot heat sink & one luck warn, if fact it may be picking it's heat up from the heat sink beside it, as you don't need to put you finger on it to know it's hot ouch.

The different temperatures on the heatsinks are normal. In our configuration we have a power dissipation of ~5.8W for IRF840 and ~1.2W for IRF9610.

With the usage of R1=56R (current adj.) we get a constant current of ~40mA.
If everything is ok, the SSHV input voltage should be ~180VDC.

I remember that one member had a problem with his transformer, witch wasn´t able to get a stable voltage for 40mA current...

Anyway, how changes your input voltage, when you turn the output voltage slowly down?
Perhaps we must lower the resistor value in the C-R-C filter a bit, to get more input voltage to the SSHV.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DQ828

And lastly is it normal for the heater elements to glow brightly for about a second when you first turn it on?

The heater flash on startup is normal for a wide family of tubes. Nothing to worry about.

dvb-projekt · 7th March 2013, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DQ828

Also in the attached photo's it shows little brass stand offs, do you know what they are called I'm having trouble finding them?

Get normal 2.54mm component straight sockets like the Mill-Max 310...001 series. Get rid of the plastic and you could use the pins as on my photo

palmito · 7th March 2013, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvb-projekt

Get normal 2.54mm component straight sockets like the Mill-Max 310...001 series. Get rid of the plastic and you could use the pins as on my photo

Thank you so much, this would have saved a couple of PCB's lives had I used them...

7th March 2013, 12:54 AM	#744
pinnocchio Just DIY! diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Montreal	I was using 30R and it sounded better than 56R in my tests. BTW, if anyone wants a Tube-I-Zator, I'm selling mine. I changed my entire DAC so it is available. Don't get me wrong, it is an absolute amazing I/V but I decided to leave tubes for a while. In all I have built 4 of the Tube-I-Zator! I had a balanced setup but one is already sold. I'm using ClarityCAP MR on coupling and TX-2575 for R I/V (x2) and Rk (x4). Salas SSHV2 for high tension and the Tubes are TJ Full Music 12AX7. All parts are very good quality. See here : FS : Tube-I-Zator DAC IV See here for my first two boards using DVBProjekt / Salas SSHV1 post #543 Tube-I-zator Professional PCB Thanks Do __________________ PREAMPs : AMB α10 + JC-80 clone \| Balanced DCB1 \| AMPs: AMB β24 \| Aleph 5 \| Symef \| Hiraga \| ML-2 \| Fetzilla \| Telos 390 Clone DACs : TPA Buffalo II + NTD1 I/V \| TPA OPUS + IVY III Speakers : Jim Holtz Statements \| Astasia SD \| Tubasson Mark 2

7th March 2013, 01:42 AM	#745
palmito diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Florida,US	OT question... In the photo of post #741, where can I get the little sockets the resistors are plugged into? They look ideal (as their use in the photo suggests) to swap things and test them without soldering/desoldering. Thanks.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
STK Professional V-6 Amp--need schematics	wcarthur	Instruments and Amps	0	21st April 2009 01:59 PM
I need a professional opinion...	sparky3489	Car Audio	0	25th June 2006 03:31 AM
professional opinion	rv1890	Multi-Way	2	12th January 2005 04:22 PM
Professional Anodizing - How to?	tiroth	Everything Else	20	30th January 2004 08:15 PM
Anyone tried Professional DIY PHILIPS CD kit ???	till	Digital Source	6	4th June 2002 10:06 AM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

6th March 2013, 10:42 PM	#742
Crom diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2012	DQ828, Phew, glad you saw that tb1- tb2 connection that was needed -that's what I was trying to point out to you a while back. Make sure it happens on the tube side as per picture. Re the I/V resistor, I'm using stock 56R and it sounds lovely. Russ / Brian from Twisted pear seem to recommend experimenting from 20R-32R so I've bought a few options which I'll be trying over the next week or so. I'll report back. I think the difference that you should notice is that it distorts (or you lose separation between the instruments) when you play it loud. I think it has something to do with the ability to deal with voltage swings. However, if someone can explain the logic behind the values I'm all ears ;-)

7th March 2013, 08:57 AM	#747
DQ828 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Lake Macquarie, East Coast Australia	Well with the yellow wire in place it makes no difference to the voltage, The SSHV Vin is reading 161V & the Vout is reading 151V DC this is after about 20min with the tubes in place. I still have one very hot heat sink & one luck warn, if fact it may be picking it's heat up from the heat sink beside it, as you don't need to put you finger on it to know it's hot ouch.