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Old 19th May 2010, 06:36 PM   #141
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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You pull the output from the tda1541 chip right.
The TC9237BN chip has negative and positive out put from both left and right. Does this board count for that.
Also I am splitting a kenwood DP-R5550 CD player this weekend. The TC9327BN chip is in my kenwood DP-M4550 which is a carousel type CD player, that carousel takes up too much toom inside to be able to run tubes inside it, and I dont want to run em outside. The 5550 is a cartridge style and may have a lot of extra room for tubes. Plus I have a remote for it.
I'll get back with what chip it has in a bit.
Thanks.
Srinath.
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Old 19th May 2010, 06:45 PM   #142
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Quote:
You pull the output from the tda1541 chip right.
Correct.

Quote:
The TC9237BN chip has negative and positive out put from both left and right. Does this board count for that.
Use only the positive output, like with the Buffalo II.

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Old 19th May 2010, 08:32 PM   #143
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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Positive only, would that not cause more noise in the output ?
Thanks.
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Old 20th May 2010, 05:14 AM   #144
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toufu connected his Buffalo II in this way (post #74). He reported that it sounds perfect.

Surely you could also use two Tube-I-zator pcbs, one for the positive and one for the negative line.
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Old 20th May 2010, 02:20 PM   #145
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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If I did + and - how does the output get merged or does it go separate into 2 RCA jacks to the output ?
Now what did they do on the original CD player. Did they just lose the - because I only have 1 output jack.
Thanks.
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Old 20th May 2010, 03:43 PM   #146
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I think that directly after your DAC, there will be the TA2009 chip.

This chip is the analog filter IC. At its output (Pin6 left output, Pin 3 right output),
you have a normal unbalanced signal. Thats are the points where you can steal the signal.


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Old 20th May 2010, 04:50 PM   #147
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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OK I will go look. TA2009 eh, Let me check. BTW I scored a 200 cd changer sony with a cxp chip in it. Complete with remote. Plenty of room in it to do what I please I think.
Cool.
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Old 27th May 2010, 01:55 AM   #148
joemana is offline joemana  United States
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Oliver,

My tubeIzator work with 12ax7 without the switch or jumper, it sounds good, the pop was gone since adjusted the heater voltage to 6.3V.

Now, I just got the 6n6p, I replaced the 1k resistor at b+ with 50k resistor, the b+ voltage drop down to (from 220V) 120V as you recommended. Then I add a jumper at 6n2p side via and the middle via.

When powered up, It's not working. There is no glow on the tube even a tiny bit. Is this had something to do with the jumper that I added?

Thanks,

Joe
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Old 27th May 2010, 05:14 AM   #149
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Hi Joe,

did the relays click at power up?

Remember that the jumper is constructed for a toggle switch. So if the switch is on the 6N2P side,
the middle and 12AX7 pin is closed!!

Best,
Oliver
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Old 28th May 2010, 07:30 AM   #150
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I made a few modification at the Tube-I-zator Module.

First i insert receptacle pins for all resistors in the tube stage.
So its easy to change the values without soldering if necessary.

Second i changed the Rk & R I/V resistors to my beloved TX2575.
It is really fascinating, what these resistors do to the sound.


Click the image to open in full size.


The last thing for now are the output caps. I changed to Ampohm 2,2 F polyester in oil, bypassed by the russian K72P-6 teflon.


Click the image to open in full size.


Now its time to fine-tune the sound with the right output caps....


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