Diodes, use any three legged with Anode Cathode Anode legs. Example:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEwUVCuofpuJ8elz361Z6mD/We128j0pc=
(you can also use two legged, but then you need to bend the legs slightly)
Heatsinks, if you want to use onboard sinks use these:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe0UzSGKJGAHIA==
For the snubbers (resistor and capacitor) you can use 100ohm and capacitors in the 20-100nF range.
And of course you will need to buy 4 of each for one board.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEwUVCuofpuJ8elz361Z6mD/We128j0pc=
(you can also use two legged, but then you need to bend the legs slightly)
Heatsinks, if you want to use onboard sinks use these:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe0UzSGKJGAHIA==
For the snubbers (resistor and capacitor) you can use 100ohm and capacitors in the 20-100nF range.
And of course you will need to buy 4 of each for one board.
Hi Christian,
I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot my F5. The amp (built with your boards) has worked fine for many months. Sounded great in fact. Suddenly while playing music it stops and begins to buzz in both channels.
A quick check shows the 24v DC at the outputs. No visible damage to the boards but I can't keep it powered on for more than 20 sec or so.
What would be the best way to proceed? Thanks in advance.
Ron
I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot my F5. The amp (built with your boards) has worked fine for many months. Sounded great in fact. Suddenly while playing music it stops and begins to buzz in both channels.
A quick check shows the 24v DC at the outputs. No visible damage to the boards but I can't keep it powered on for more than 20 sec or so.
What would be the best way to proceed? Thanks in advance.
Ron
What happens after 20 sec? (don't connect speakers)
Do you have replacement components?
You have to start trouble shooting. If nothing burns when it is on, you can start to measure voltages - otherwise you have to figure out which component is shorting the whole thing (you solder out the power fets).
No speakers connected. Tested with inputs shorted and open. After 20 sec I start to smell burning. Power supply tests ok when disconnected.
I do have a second set of boards and components. I will build those while I troubleshoot these.
What doesn't make sense to me is that something happened to both boards at the same time.
I do have a second set of boards and components. I will build those while I troubleshoot these.
What doesn't make sense to me is that something happened to both boards at the same time.
Back at Pass
Hi Christian,
From your Jan. GB: I've been distracted lately with putting together/equipping a varily decent build/test bench: Just current with thread. Curious; the new PCB-3/13/09, Is only change to Q5 silk?
Also, new Rect.B PCB---2 diode bridges, etc. vs PCB. Is improvement because of 'better' ultra fast recovery of To-247 devices like MUR3020W? Or is mainly just to simplify/organize PS input? On brd heatsink option a +plus if needed; yes but I'm using big Conrads with plenty of surplus 'sink' for To-247 RBs . If no real advantage, RectB PCB seems more costly? Just curious, cause cuz last GB you only had 1/2 of PSU brds I needed so I got a couple of Peter's PSBs with snap off RB chips. Just considering my PS options.
Thanks
Charles
Hi Christian,
From your Jan. GB: I've been distracted lately with putting together/equipping a varily decent build/test bench: Just current with thread. Curious; the new PCB-3/13/09, Is only change to Q5 silk?
Also, new Rect.B PCB---2 diode bridges, etc. vs PCB. Is improvement because of 'better' ultra fast recovery of To-247 devices like MUR3020W? Or is mainly just to simplify/organize PS input? On brd heatsink option a +plus if needed; yes but I'm using big Conrads with plenty of surplus 'sink' for To-247 RBs . If no real advantage, RectB PCB seems more costly? Just curious, cause cuz last GB you only had 1/2 of PSU brds I needed so I got a couple of Peter's PSBs with snap off RB chips. Just considering my PS options.
Thanks
Charles
Re: Back at Pass
1. And I have added a pin header footprint for the LED - but you're right - nothing serious.
2. Well lots of people have asked for these, and they make it easy to use ultra fast recovery diodes and supply more current for bigger amps. In fact I consider them of general purpose nature - and not directly related to the F5, although it seems like an upgrade well worth it.
cowboy99 said:
1. And I have added a pin header footprint for the LED - but you're right - nothing serious.
2. Well lots of people have asked for these, and they make it easy to use ultra fast recovery diodes and supply more current for bigger amps. In fact I consider them of general purpose nature - and not directly related to the F5, although it seems like an upgrade well worth it.
Some informations from Nelson PASS about Power Supplies :
http://passlabs.com/articles.htm
Download the PDF and read the section about Recifiers.
"Yeah, sure, rectifiers are important, after all, the AC has to get converted to DC, but I don't like the fast recovery types that some audiophiles have raved about. Fast recovery means that they withstand many amps and volts in a tenth of a few nano-seconds, something we don't see very often on the old 60 Hz AC line. They are essential element in switching power supplies, but for regular "linear" power supplies, I much prefer SLOW diodes, and we create them by placing small capacitor circuits across the diodes, which greatly reduces radiated noise."
Just wondering about the caps type and values...
http://passlabs.com/articles.htm
Download the PDF and read the section about Recifiers.
"Yeah, sure, rectifiers are important, after all, the AC has to get converted to DC, but I don't like the fast recovery types that some audiophiles have raved about. Fast recovery means that they withstand many amps and volts in a tenth of a few nano-seconds, something we don't see very often on the old 60 Hz AC line. They are essential element in switching power supplies, but for regular "linear" power supplies, I much prefer SLOW diodes, and we create them by placing small capacitor circuits across the diodes, which greatly reduces radiated noise."
Just wondering about the caps type and values...
korben69 said:Some informations from Nelson PASS about Power Supplies :
http://passlabs.com/articles.htm
Download the PDF and read the section about Recifiers.
"Yeah, sure, rectifiers are important, after all, the AC has to get converted to DC, but I don't like the fast recovery types that some audiophiles have raved about. Fast recovery means that they withstand many amps and volts in a tenth of a few nano-seconds, something we don't see very often on the old 60 Hz AC line. They are essential element in switching power supplies, but for regular "linear" power supplies, I much prefer SLOW diodes, and we create them by placing small capacitor circuits across the diodes, which greatly reduces radiated noise."
Just wondering about the caps type and values...
Papa has changed his mind since that article, I have read it several times in the pass labs forum, but my search only gave this reference:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=321830#post321830
This may also be an inspiration:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=17199&highlight=#post17199
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