Go Back   Home > Forums > Commercial Sector > Group Buys
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Group Buys Members group buys

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th November 2009, 02:23 PM   #961
cviller is offline cviller  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
cviller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Copenhagen
Blog Entries: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtate View Post
when using the "calculator" what do I plug in as the "source voltage"
if the current is 20ma and the "forward voltage is 3.4v" ?
Source voltage is 24.

If your diodes are to be mounted on the front-plate, select anything in the 10-40k range. With 10k normal blue leds will be plenty bright, so don't worry too much about this.
__________________
I have started a blogged guide to my F5 boards read it here: F5 pcb v2 blog
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 04:39 PM   #962
rtate is offline rtate  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Man I feel stupid, I know this is a small issue...
When I use the calculator:
24v source
20ma
3.4v forward voltage
The calculator recommends 1.2k 1watt for a resistor.

What am I not seeing here....

Last edited by rtate; 10th November 2009 at 04:42 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 04:42 PM   #963
cviller is offline cviller  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
cviller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Copenhagen
Blog Entries: 2
you're not seeing the fact that 20ma is a huge amount of current for a led which is only used for indicating power on...
As I said, I use 33k - nice and dim light. Use 33k if you want dim light or 10k if you want something stronger. No big deal.
__________________
I have started a blogged guide to my F5 boards read it here: F5 pcb v2 blog
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 04:49 PM   #964
Renron is offline Renron  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Renron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtate View Post

What am I not seeing here....

You made a funny!

You are not missing anything, as I said it all depends on how bright you want the LEDs to be. Christian likes his at a soft glow level. The 1.2K level will produce the most light safely possible from the LED, BRIGHT!
Start with something around 2K and see if it's too bright. You could always add a small 5 - 10K pot and make them adjustable. Or put a switch on the amp and make daytime listening bright and nitetime soft glow. ie: 1.5K and 30k at night.
No dumb questions, unless it's the one you DON'T ask.

Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 05:04 PM   #965
Renron is offline Renron  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Renron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
Hey Christian,
As you know, I've done my best to kill any chances of making the F5 a working amp.
Here's what my Friend Steve has discovered I did wrong.
I built the rectifier boards correct but connected their output to the PS board wrong. I bulged all the negative rail caps, they look like roasted marshmallows, all puffy on top. That in turn gave the + rail 50V and that killed several resistors and transistors. I could not troubleshoot it myself (lack of skills) because the caps were shorted and all my readings were off because of it.
New caps have been installed, but the - rail doesn't want to bias up past .5V on R12.......I think that's what Steve said..........I could be wrong.

Thanks,
Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 05:10 PM   #966
cviller is offline cviller  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
cviller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Copenhagen
Blog Entries: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renron View Post
Hey Christian,
As you know, I've done my best to kill any chances of making the F5 a working amp.
Here's what my Friend Steve has discovered I did wrong.
I built the rectifier boards correct but connected their output to the PS board wrong. I bulged all the negative rail caps, they look like roasted marshmallows, all puffy on top. That in turn gave the + rail 50V and that killed several resistors and transistors. I could not troubleshoot it myself (lack of skills) because the caps were shorted and all my readings were off because of it.
New caps have been installed, but the - rail doesn't want to bias up past .5V on R12.......I think that's what Steve said..........I could be wrong.

Thanks,
Ron
Hi Ron,
It sounds like a massacre of burning parts...

Do you have all the burned components changed and still only .5V on R12? Silly question: have you tried adjust both pots on the board?
__________________
I have started a blogged guide to my F5 boards read it here: F5 pcb v2 blog
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 05:26 PM   #967
Renron is offline Renron  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Renron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
Christian,
IT WAS A BARBECUE !!!
Yep. both pots. the P channel adjust to .6 but the neg. channel only goes to.5V
Any ideas? Low value resistor in // with the pot maybe?
Good Voltages from the PS now. +25.3V and -25.1V.
Thanks for the help CViller!

Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 05:31 PM   #968
Tea-Bag is offline Tea-Bag  United States
not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
 
Tea-Bag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kennebunk
Blog Entries: 11
lower pos rail to .5v. It will probably heat up to a higher amount.
I thought I read somewhere that low idss or unmatched JFets may cause this. But unsure.

Whenever I light an ampboard on fire, I throw it away. You dont know what kind of stuff happened, and how that will play outlong term.
__________________
SemiSouth R085/R100A JFET available now
DCB1/BiB #3 on order : SSHV2 Sign up Sheet/Payup Sheet Ends 2-26-2012 CLICK HERE
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 05:46 PM   #969
Renron is offline Renron  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Renron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
Thanks Tea Bag.
I agree,
New boards were purchased and all the transistors were replaced with new ones.
The Resistors were all checked prior to reinstalling them. New Caps were installed on the PS board. Will drop the P rail V. to .5 and see what happens.

Thanks so very much. I built a very nice case and am anxious to hear this Amp sing.

Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2009, 06:46 PM   #970
diyAudio Member
 
Steve Eddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
Actually it's not even coming up to 0.5V.

I'm getting R3 up to 4.2V, but can't get any more than about 3.2V across R4. And even at that, not getting more than 10-20mV across R11 and R12.

The MOSFETs just aren't biasing up.

se
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:59 AM.

Page generated in 0.11249 seconds (79.94% PHP - 20.06% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio