Gb: F5 Pcb

[Renron]

I happened to my Amp!



Sometimes the price we pay for learning the hard way.
I had connected the power supply (nice board BTW) incorrectly and fried at least 4 of my rail capacitors, also the beautiful isolator pads that I got from Tinitus, Yep, killed them too. Shorted out to ground and took out the TX transitors / one or two resistors and at least one of the variable pots.
At this point I'm concidering just starting over completely....again.
I'm having fun and that's the important part, right?

just in case, got any more boards available? (half joking)

I looked for you later at BA3 before the bar closed to buy you one more round. Found you with Nelson just as I was leaving. I still owe you one!
. Always good to meet a new friend.

Ron

[alazira]

Originally Posted by rtate

I have just about aquired all the necessary parts to start my project, all I need now is the internal wire for the amp.
I am curious as to what the group is using for the different connections..
What quality and gauge for:
1)DC supply wires
2)signal input wire
3)output wire to the binding posts

I have ordered premium parts like riken and caddock resistors so I don't want to skimp on the interconnect wire!!!
So what's every one using??

Hi,

I started in DIY audio by building interconnects and power cords. My favorite is the 28gauge cotton covered silver wire by either Jupiter (partsconnexion) or VH audio brand (or just make your own, but much easier to buy). I've also put together gold wire interconnects but that was when gold was under $300 and it was still very expensive, but it does have a very rich warm sound compared to silver. For internal amp wiring I used 17g flat silver wire from ccsilver which you can keep bare if you dare or use cotton sleeving.
Pure Silver, Fine 9999 and 999 wire
and 20g for speaker wire with cotton or silk sleeves from vt4c which also sells a silver panel mount fRCA.
Audio Catalog

Garrett

[CJC]

Hello Chris,

I have just send you through pay pal the payment for one full set of F5 (2 F5 PCB + 1 PSU + 2 Rectifier board)

Thanks!
CJ

[rtate]

Chris, I can't seem to find a value for the resistor for the LED(R35)
Could you please give me a value.
As for the LED is there a part number recommended or a current rating to use?

Thanks again

[cviller]

I use 33k for a normal cheap blue led. You can go lower if you want more light.

[cviller]

You can also look at this page:
LED calculator for single LEDs

[cviller]

The calculator will suggest 20mA which I think is a bit too much - but it depends on taste.

[rtate]

Should I assume that the LED's are 24vdc??

[Renron]

Originally Posted by rtate

Should I assume that the LED's are 24vdc??

You could once. Very bright and very short lived.........it's a terrible way for an LED to die.

Only if you have 7 or 8 of them in series. LOL

Normal Blue LEDs are about 3V - 3.4V and 20mA - 30mA like Christian said. Use the "forward volatage" as a reference and use a LED voltage calculator for your resistor value. Resistor can go on either the + or - side.
Start with a larger resistor than what you think you want and you can always go smaller if it's not bright enough.
Ron

[rtate]

when using the "calculator" what do I plug in as the "source voltage"
if the current is 20ma and the "forward voltage is 3.4v" ?