Gb: F5 Pcb - Page 73

labjr · 19th April 2009, 01:05 PM

I'm only wondering which rectifiers sound best in the F5 since it appears there are regular bridge rectifiers in the factory model.

vdi_nenna · 19th April 2009, 03:43 PM

Soft recovery type might be the way to go, but I'm sure the experts will have great explaination of what's better.

http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/Me...ry_Code=DIODES

RonD2 · 20th April 2009, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bobodioulasso

Did you try to disconnect one channel at a time from psu?

Yes. Connecting either channel one at a time gives the same 24v output.

bobodioulasso · 20th April 2009, 04:00 PM

Both channels the same fault!
Logical would say your PSU is the issue.
Sounds crazy?
Did you check the PSU with charging resistors ( bulbs) instead of amps?

bobodioulasso · 21st April 2009, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bobodioulasso
Both channels the same fault!
Logical would say your PSU is the issue.
Sounds crazy?
Did you check the PSU with charging resistors ( bulbs) instead of amps?

Sorry for incorrect words.
Instead of "logical" read: logic
instead of "charging" read: loading.

RonD2 · 21st April 2009, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bobodioulasso

Sorry for incorrect words.
Instead of "logical" read: logic
instead of "charging" read: loading.

I agree with the logic, but....

I removed one of the boards and tried it in another working amp's PS and it gives the same result.

I built a backup board last night and will test it tonight. If it works then I can troubleshoot the failed boards but I am not sure how best to do that.

Thanks for your help! I really miss the amp.

bobodioulasso · 21st April 2009, 03:53 PM

I cannot understand what happened simultaneously to your both channels!
Anyway:
You can serial connect a 110v bulb between mains and the amp, that will allow you some live measurements without burnig components...( do not connect any speaker.)
If no result:
Checking the boards shouldn't be too difficult as they are so simple.
First, have a carefull look at them in case you could notice something wrong. Something burnt, bad soldering...?
If no result, unsolder the the transistors and check them.
If you have new transistors, it may be faster to replace all of them an make a trial with serial bulb connected. (current limiters transistors are facultative)...
What else to check?
some resistors two trimpots, that's all.

dinama · 23rd April 2009, 11:06 AM

The boards arrived today.
Many thanks cviller.

Ren · 23rd April 2009, 07:13 PM

Boards arrived today in perfect condition.

Many thanks, Christian! They look great.

BR,

Ren

sandbasser · 23rd April 2009, 09:10 PM

Christian -

My boards arrived in today's mail. They all look GREAT; and, the black rectifier boards are absolutely AWESOME.

Many thanks for this Group Buy.

Regards,

19th April 2009, 03:43 PM	#722
vdi_nenna diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: PA, USA Blog Entries: 1	Soft recovery type might be the way to go, but I'm sure the experts will have great explaination of what's better. http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/Me...ry_Code=DIODES __________________ I build, therefore I am.

23rd April 2009, 09:10 PM	#730
sandbasser diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Riverside, CA - USA	Christian - My boards arrived in today's mail. They all look GREAT; and, the black rectifier boards are absolutely AWESOME. Many thanks for this Group Buy. Regards, __________________ - Ray

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

19th April 2009, 01:05 PM	#721
labjr diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: MA	I'm only wondering which rectifiers sound best in the F5 since it appears there are regular bridge rectifiers in the factory model.

20th April 2009, 04:00 PM	#724
bobodioulasso diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	Both channels the same fault! Logical would say your PSU is the issue. Sounds crazy? Did you check the PSU with charging resistors ( bulbs) instead of amps?

21st April 2009, 03:53 PM	#727
bobodioulasso diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	I cannot understand what happened simultaneously to your both channels! Anyway: You can serial connect a 110v bulb between mains and the amp, that will allow you some live measurements without burnig components...( do not connect any speaker.) If no result: Checking the boards shouldn't be too difficult as they are so simple. First, have a carefull look at them in case you could notice something wrong. Something burnt, bad soldering...? If no result, unsolder the the transistors and check them. If you have new transistors, it may be faster to replace all of them an make a trial with serial bulb connected. (current limiters transistors are facultative)... What else to check? some resistors two trimpots, that's all.

23rd April 2009, 11:06 AM	#728
dinama diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Italy	The boards arrived today. Many thanks cviller.

23rd April 2009, 07:13 PM	#729
Ren diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Northern Virginia	Boards arrived today in perfect condition. Many thanks, Christian! They look great. BR, Ren