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Old 14th September 2010, 03:24 PM   #1321
Horio is offline Horio  United States
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Boards received and they all look great. Can't wait to get going on this build. Thanks again!
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Old 14th September 2010, 08:55 PM   #1322
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Default Renron - amp power switch

Renron,

Where did you source the power switch on your F5 from - would really good on an amp I'm building (not a F5 unfortunately).

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 14th September 2010, 09:31 PM   #1323
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Looks like he used a Bulgin anti-vandal style switch. You can pick those up from Mouser or Digikey for around $20/ea. I think you need to use a seperate transformer & PCB to power the LED's and switch the relay for your power. Here is some information on the one I used for a headphone amp I built.

AMB Epsilon 24
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Old 15th September 2010, 12:15 AM   #1324
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Horio, Your close.
It is an anti-vandal switch made by Bulgin. Mouser.com. 18mm
Model #MP0045/1E2

The model I use does not need a relay, it's rated at 250V AC /3A mains voltage. I took the power for the led ring from the F5 board's led output and added resistance in series to not fry the delicate LED.
Some of their switches are rated at 12V. and people mistakenly use that to provide power to the LED, (once). Non replaceable LED in the switch, Best to start off very low power and work up from there. I've used these switches before and they are great and supreme quality!
PDF file:
http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Swi...lessSwitch.pdf
Mouser webpage link:
MP0045/1D2BL012 Bulgin Pushbutton Switches

Ron
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Old 16th September 2010, 02:13 PM   #1325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renron View Post
Horio, Your close.
It is an anti-vandal switch made by Bulgin. Mouser.com. 18mm
Model #MP0045/1E2

The model I use does not need a relay, it's rated at 250V AC /3A mains voltage. I took the power for the led ring from the F5 board's led output and added resistance in series to not fry the delicate LED.
Some of their switches are rated at 12V. and people mistakenly use that to provide power to the LED, (once). Non replaceable LED in the switch, Best to start off very low power and work up from there. I've used these switches before and they are great and supreme quality!
PDF file:
http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Swi...lessSwitch.pdf
Mouser webpage link:
MP0045/1D2BL012 Bulgin Pushbutton Switches

Ron
Ron,

Want to double check with you on something. You state that you are using the E2 version of the switch but you have linked the D2 version. The difference seems to be that the D2 version is a momentary switch versus the E2 which is a latching switch.

I'm a newbie to the terms momentary versus latching. Can anybody explain? Otherwise the switches look identical. FWIW, Ron (in a private e-mail) stated that the LED in this cool switch has a forward drop voltage of 3.3V and recommended a current of between 5-10mA (max 30mA), so you should definitely have a series resistor in line with the LED anode, or else the LED will be fried! The resistor calculator is right here:

Alan Parekh's Electronic Projects - LED Resistor Calculator

Thanks again Ron...

Anand.
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Old 16th September 2010, 03:29 PM   #1326
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My understanding (which is basic) is that a normally open momentary switch only makes the connection when you push down the button. As soon as it is released it goes back into its open position again. That is why I used that board I linked above in conjunction with a separate relay on the AC to the transformer.

Someone please correct me if I've got it wrong.
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Old 16th September 2010, 05:01 PM   #1327
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Horio,

Thanks for the response. But why would you want a momentary switch then? Forgive me, I'm just used to the usual SPST, SPDT type switches. Basically you switch it on and it stays on until you switch it off. This is what the 'latching' switch sounds like to me.

Anand.
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Old 17th September 2010, 03:05 AM   #1328
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Anand,
So much for "Personal" email correspondence....

You are correct, the type of switch SHOULD be a latching, not momentary type. If you read the PDF linked above you will see that the /1E2 model is the latching. Mousers weblink is incorrect. I found the correct one on their website and their link brought me to the page for which I provided a link. I should have read it better. Sorry.

I have used this switch on my Aikido preamp. Looks great.
As far as the mA value to start with, I stand by my opinion. Start low and work up from there.

Keep us informed of your progress.

Ron
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Old 17th September 2010, 05:11 PM   #1329
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Wow. You are an artisan sir! Care to tell us where your attenuator is from? Very, very cool. I've ordered the switch btw, and I will start with a high valued resistor in series to limit the current. Don't want to fry a $14 switch!

Anand.
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Old 18th September 2010, 11:21 AM   #1330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markblun View Post
Renron,

Where did you source the power switch on your F5 from - would really good on an amp I'm building (not a F5 unfortunately).

Thanks,

Mark
Check out Farnell part number 133-2000
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