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Old 15th December 2008, 04:18 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally posted by cetoole

1. I have posted 5v and 3.3v versions of the shunt reg, using a LED for the voltage reference. Just for you though, here it is again: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...huntreg33v.png
Great, I thought that only the 5V was posted.

Quote:
Originally posted by cetoole

2. How much heatsinking can you provide? Honestly, I dunno what the limits are, I havnt simulated or built above 100mA.
I figured as much, just thought I would ask.

Quote:
Originally posted by cetoole
3. Only if you are a madman, and I mean that in the best possible way. The current draw in a HTPC is so high as to make linear supplies of any sort impractical, and a shunt regulator would be much worse, especially since a computer isnt a constant load. You thought Papa used big heatsinks to keep his stuff cool? Now, if you wanted, you could selectively power items, such as the soundcard, from a separate supply.
The sound card was my main concern. How do I do such a thing?

Thanks,
Rodent
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Old 15th December 2008, 06:33 PM   #102
steenoe is offline steenoe  Denmark
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I changed R5 to 10K and everything works fine. Thanks to Andrew for spotting that little mistake. I have hooked up the Toolereg/D1 I/V stage and everything sounds just great. There is no noise or any other nasties to be heard.

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Old 15th December 2008, 06:42 PM   #103
Manu is offline Manu  Europe
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Old 16th December 2008, 08:15 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally posted by steenoe


Do you think Dennis requested a quote for 1000 pcs? Seems that we could end up there
I am not sure what the record is, but I think the Aleph-X boards went over 1000 pcs .


1000? pshaw.. I think I sold 6000 MKP1837 caps and a few thou LSKs.
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Old 16th December 2008, 02:21 PM   #105
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Hello,

I got some updated quotes yesterday from the
PCB fab shop. The prices have leveled off.
Current price is $4.20CAD in quantity of 1000.
I have verified that the quoted price includes PCB
scoring.

I also inquired about leaded finish. They can do
leaded tin, but prefer non-leaded since practically
all their work is RoHS. They are also closed from
Dec 24 to Jan 4. This gives us time to finalize the
PCB designs, collect payment, and fire off the
order in the new year.

Cheers,
Dennis
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Old 16th December 2008, 03:34 PM   #106
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Well, the only opinions I’ve heard so far regarding the solder plated finish is that we should go tinleaded finish since most of us are using this type of solder material; opinions are welcomed at this point in time.
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Old 17th December 2008, 03:15 PM   #107
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I will be using WBT 4% silver solder, will this affect my joints? If so, I vote against it. If there are benefits for 4% silver and tinned PCBs, what are they? If it is perfect for everyone then it should be a given. However, I would rather not if it is not "perfect" for everyone and make it universal. It would be easier to tin your boards as you do the joints than to de-solder and clean tham bfore you ever do a joint.
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Old 17th December 2008, 03:29 PM   #108
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apassgear (Tony)

Did you replace VR 20K to 10K (R15/R115) ?

Thanks and best

JC

Edit - Skip this post. Reissue schematics is OK
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Old 17th December 2008, 03:34 PM   #109
h_a is offline h_a  Europe
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Quote:
If there are benefits for 4% silver
The only reason for high-% silver solder is that it conducts heat better (thermal conductivity).

Have fun, Hannes
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Old 17th December 2008, 05:11 PM   #110
glt is offline glt  United States
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Easiest type of solder to use is the high flux leaded type. Flows like water. For silver loaded and/or lead free, you need higher temperatures and may not flow as good, and if you make a mistake, it is a pain to desolder.
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