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7th February 2009, 05:59 PM
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#631 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
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__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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7th February 2009, 06:01 PM
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#632 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Surrey/Hampshire borders
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F5 BOM check
Peter,
Just starting to put the F5 boards together and noticed that the BOM does not include any small caps for the psu board and checking your photo it seems that you do not populate them. So is it just the four large caps plus either 4 or 8 resistors (for 5W or 3W versions) on the psu? Thanks Alan |
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7th February 2009, 06:01 PM
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#633 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
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..
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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7th February 2009, 06:09 PM
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#635 | |
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not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Those are update to the original circuit. Nelson changed it later on. These values will work more better. |
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7th February 2009, 06:14 PM
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#636 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
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Re: F5 BOM check
Quote:
 The picture also shows what resistors I'm presently using.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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7th February 2009, 06:22 PM
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#637 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
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That assembly will be mounted between two tall heatsinks.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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7th February 2009, 06:24 PM
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#638 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Surrey/Hampshire borders
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Peter,
So two capacitors per channel - what look like Caddocks, Mills and Rikens resistors, but.... how do you attach the output devices to the heatsink - it seems that they must be mounted near the edge of the heatsink.? So is there anything left on the capacitor board? Would you be using the copper bar then as your star-ground? Alan |
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7th February 2009, 06:30 PM
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#639 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
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There are two more caps on the other side, as to resistors I used whatever I had available. I will be using only rectifier section from capacitor board. The copper wire bridging the caps will be indeed the star ground.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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7th February 2009, 06:34 PM
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#640 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Surrey/Hampshire borders
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just missed your second post
Peter,
So that is one channel? If so then I take it the caps at the back are also attached to that one board? Yet again it looks like a work of art in the making. Alan |
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