Destroyer x Amplifier DX HDII version. - Page 62 - diyAudio
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Old 4th February 2008, 08:21 AM   #611
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Default Germans are very clever... i have strong appreciation about them


They have clever solutions into everything they do.

I have some fear about them too...because recent Hystory, but i can dennie they are great.

And no good to say they are good, as problems starts when they perceive they are special.

Good solution my dear.... variable voltage supply can feed many different amplifiers, also clever, as it is very stupid to have 5 supplies to 5 different amplifiers we build...and we do not listen them at same time...so....more clever is to adjust your supply and use amplifier A, and them the amplifier B and so on.

I feel happy when i see people using the brain.... everybody has, but only few put them to work.

I have friends, despite clever folks, intelligent folks, that switch brain off almost all the time.

If you suggest them to build another amplifier they start to complain that have not another 35 volts supply when they have already one amplifier assembled that has that supply inside...they need just to solder 3 wires and run those wires into the new circuit they are assembling...but people do not think on that...or are bad in brain flexibility..they say.

-" No!..that supply is for amplifier A, not for both of them!"

By the way... i love languages ...and "Eingang" and "Ausgang" is beautifull!

ahahahahahah!

regards,

Carlos
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Power supply; ripple, filter, noise, stability and the use of capacitance multiplier... Portuguese and English; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSm0ku1eIgg
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Old 4th February 2008, 08:50 AM   #612
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It can be regulated from 10V to 90 VDC and the current is 10A RMS and a peak of 20A;so I could use this supply for many amps.
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Old 4th February 2008, 10:01 AM   #613
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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Just some notes... the capcitor spaces on the board, can easily carry 100V caps..

Also related to the size of caps (capacitance), although I know the source or person the comment was attributed to , and have very few people I respect more in this line of things....

My experience, was that the big caps I used, increased details in the mid and top range if anything...
Doing AB test.. the sansui sounds muffled in comparison and even the DX classic. I do also believe (and eperienced) that some electrolytics jsut do not belong in audio circuits, and this is not price dependant, had some realy nice sounding cheapies...

The units on my boards at the moment are Panasonic TSUP caps. at 2 x 10000 and a cheap, but clear sounding 4700 on the input side... considering the little current useage of the input side, the 4700uF caps are undoubtably overkill and a sign of my inexperience at the time... I do however like a cap that has a ripple current rateing exceeding the maximum instantanious potential current draw of whatever it is connected to...

Bottomline is if you got something you think will fit the holes and voltage requirements... give it a shot. Worst case scenario, you swap those parts later on... if your HRII sounds muffled in any way, I suspect something is very wrong... It is one of the clearest sounding amps I have heard. And even giving acceptable sound through a set of test speakers that makes jsut about any amp sound like fog horn.
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Old 4th February 2008, 10:58 AM   #614
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nordic


The units on my boards at the moment are Panasonic TSUP caps. at 2 x 10000 and a cheap, but clear sounding 4700 on the input side... considering the little current useage of the input side, the 4700uF caps are undoubtably overkill and a sign of my inexperience at the time... I do however like a cap that has a ripple current rateing exceeding the maximum instantanious potential current draw of whatever it is connected to...

So for the input cap 2200F can be enough but take a good one.
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Old 4th February 2008, 11:08 AM   #615
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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Do you mean the The ones at C2 and C22 o the board? they can in fact be as low as 470uF, but try the ones you have... and see what results you get

Input cap normaly is the name of the cap on the positve input signal line... just want to avoid confusion...
The value for the input cap should optimaly be between 5.6uF and maybe 10uF if you realy want to have an overload of bass. Mine are 6u8. It is marked as 2u2 on the board, which is the only "error" that made it through due to misunderstanding... a relic form the DX amp. Will still work with 2u2 but the bass roll off will be earlier.
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Old 4th February 2008, 11:24 AM   #616
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I mean C1 and C2 need that to be good ones and what about C9 and C10?
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Old 4th February 2008, 11:37 AM   #617
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I was wondering if you could change soundquality by using good bypass caps for C1, C2,C9 and C10?
I also can get my hands on some Paper in Oil caps from Dublier and Cordell with a value of 8F,I want to use them for Cin.
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Old 4th February 2008, 11:55 AM   #618
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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Sorry, man, I looked at the bypass cap's number...

look between the holes for c1, 2 9 and 10...
There are alleady holes for mounting bypass caps there, provided of course you use caps that fit the clip on holes.... otherwise just solder them to the bottom over the pins.
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Old 4th February 2008, 12:10 PM   #619
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nordic
Sorry, man, I looked at the bypass cap's number...

look between the holes for c1, 2 9 and 10...
There are alleady holes for mounting bypass caps there, provided of course you use caps that fit the clip on holes.... otherwise just solder them to the bottom over the pins.
Yes I know but can it be by using good bypass caps that the sound can changes in the positive way?
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Old 4th February 2008, 01:12 PM   #620
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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I think, not as much as the guys running "boutique" parts shop would claim... I think you can get a bunch of "flavours" by just getting a handfull of diffirent elcos from 470u to say in theory 4700uf.

There are probably as many arguments for bypasing as there is against... I say its cheap enough to buy a handfull of spare caps and find what suits you.

You wouldn't send someone else to go choose icecream for you anymore than you should want anyone stamping their view on what is best sound-wise.

You will normally find the bigger the price on their last receipt, the more truthfull they proclaim the benifits of installing brand new screws made of crabshell or something like that.

When I built chipamps I was always awatre how much better they sounded with more acceptable quality components (something that actualy had a half decent datasheet)... As I started building te DX range, I have become more immune to that.
They sound good, almost regardless what you throw at them.
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