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Old 14th February 2009, 08:56 PM   #1211
rob3262 is offline rob3262  United States
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Hi Tad.
Mills on the emitters, Vishay 1% throughout, Ohmite silicone on the R//L. I like the Mills, when they're available

The 800 isn't the industrial, check out the Weller 260W! Makes easy work when soldering the big bypass caps to the pcb. Heats up in about 12 seconds too. I really can't imagine going at this build with a 25W pencil. You've got talent!

Click the image to open in full size.


I really appreciate the info on the drill/tap process guys. I haven't done work like this since shop class in high school (just a couple few years ago) One of the daunting tasks left is the whole chassis piece. I'm more than a month out from that part.
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Old 14th February 2009, 09:03 PM   #1212
pooge is offline pooge  United States
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Originally posted by tryonziess
Rob,

It is a good idea to run a small countersink over the area afterwards to broach the burr down so the transistors lay flat.

I use a little 25 watt iron. Where you guys get of with these industrial 800 degree soldering tools. Must be nice. I think we have discussed this before. I try to treat these devices like fragile pieces of glass. As little heat as necessary. Just enough heat to wick the solder up the leads.

Tad

DEFINATELY countersink to deburr! Not only for the transistors to lay flat, but to keep from cutting through pad. Also, be careful about applying too much torque to the screws, as too much will lift the surface of the sink.

25 watts is marginal for an iron. A higher wattage is much better. It may sound counter intuitive, but higher wattage will heat the component less. This is because it will heat the solder joint much faster so you can lift the iron off before heat is conducted up the lead to the component. With a small iron, you leave it on forever and heat has plenty of time to conduct up the lead INTO the component and damage it. Good insurance would be to clip an alligator clip to the lead next to the body of the component to draw off any heat travelling up the lead.
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Old 15th February 2009, 12:07 AM   #1213
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I've got a 40W temperature controlled iron from http://www.web-tronics.com/ - similar to the blackjack station for only $45.

I'm using a 2mm chisel tip on this board. The copper is heavy so sucks a lot of heat, making a massive tip essential.

I had some success using bar soap as a lubricant. As soon as you feel the tap starting to bind, back out and clean it. Of course I am using big box store taps. I've got to try some industrial ones with my next McMaster Carr order.
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Old 15th February 2009, 12:26 AM   #1214
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Pooge,
Thanks for that little alligator clip tip. l general can get solder to flow on contact or instantly. Maybe the iron is 40 watts. Anyway it is a very fast process. I use extremely small diameter solder which seems to help. You can solder in five or six resistors in about half a minute. I need the smallest item I can handle when working under my magnifier light. The eyes just ain't what they use to be. Heck even with a small pencil iron I burn the edges of box capacitors on every build. Just old and clumsy.

I think a nice soldering station would be a nice gift to myself. I can say the dog gave it to me. You all are making this a must decision.

Rob, With the price of aluminum at retail it might not be a bad time to start looking for some scrap material. You can find small sheets of 1/8 to 1/4 sheet in dumpsters. Short lengths of angle are tossed out regularly.
I buy most of the screws from Small Parts . com or on ebay. If you use stainless or brass you for sure do not want to buy at Ace or Home Depot. They want 25 -40 cents per screw. OUCH. Small Parts stocks just about every thread and head style you could ever want. They also have major stocks of other cool stuff. Some a little bit more pricey.
Did I mention that old street signs are aluminum. Very heavily tempered. Makes good tops and bottoms for chassis. You will have to be creative with the paint removal if needed. You can find a nice stash after a big storm. You have to make some good from all the destruction. (Please no new ones-- we need those) I sure hope you have access to a table saw. A drill press is nice too and a good assortment of holesaws.

Tad
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Old 15th February 2009, 01:00 PM   #1215
rob3262 is offline rob3262  United States
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Table saw - Yes
Drill Press - no (not yet, contemplating. But I do have access)

Now about those taps. The consensus is to avoid big-box. What are some good alternate sources for tools? I don't have a Mac Tool truck running in my neighborhood...

Recycling street signs... those things are heavy guage! Something to look into.

Can someone advise on mounting the large torroids? I have a hardware kit consisting of a long bolt, formed metal plate, and 2 rubber pads. The bolt head will have to come thru the bottom chassis plate, requiring chassis to have feet or standoffs?

I noticed Chas has posted in another thread about a soured deal on some snap-in caps. I had gone thru Digi-key for 6800uF snap ins that seem well suited to the purpose. I really wanted 10000uF's, couldn't locate anything this side of reasonable cost
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Old 15th February 2009, 01:16 PM   #1216
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Your case should have feet anyway, to allow for air circulation. Raising the case up even half an inch gets more air to the heat sinks.

It's a good idea to have some ventilation through the top and bottom of the case to keep the filter caps cool.

Used signs? The streets department is just around the corner...
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Old 15th February 2009, 01:22 PM   #1217
clm811 is offline clm811  United States
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Quote:
Just wash [flux] off when you are finished with some good circuit cleaner or alcohol...
FWIW,
WJH and I both cleaned our boards using the following cleaning instructions, which proved extremely effective:

http://nuxx.net/wiki/Flux_Removal

Lacking an air compressor, we used a can of that commercial
"Dust Air" blower, sourced from Rat Shack.

Quote:
I had gone thru Digi-key for 6800uF snap ins that seem well suited to the purpose.
Anyone know where to get nice large (low ESR) snap-ins for less than $10+ each?
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Old 15th February 2009, 01:34 PM   #1218
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Default Taps for aluminum

Try out Spiral Flute Taps.

These babies will tap aluminum as if it was butter. Still tricky with the smaller sizes, but much better than regular taps.

My 0.02 worth.
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Old 15th February 2009, 01:42 PM   #1219
clm811 is offline clm811  United States
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Been looking for HQ taps, in various sizes, as well. I'd never heard of Spiral Flute Taps before, Thanks argofan!

I'd heard of Spinal Taps, but they only go up to 11
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Old 15th February 2009, 03:16 PM   #1220
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I can get some good taps from the Matco tool truck on Wednesday. I could pass them on for cost and mailing if anyone wants a few. Typically No. 4-40, No. 6-24/32. There are other sizes but they tend to get mucho more expensive as you go up.
Do not quote me on this but I think they are about 4.00 bucks each. I am VERY pleased at how they cut.

Bob, " Just around the corner." You could get just about any type of aluminum you want from there scrap pile. No one get me wrong. No stealing just recycling. That is what green earth is advocating. And yes some of the signs are quite thick. General purpose domestic signs are about 1/8, 5/32 inch in guage. You will not be able to bend into a 90 degree corner because of the temper.

Tad
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