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DIY Waveguide loudspeaker kit

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#1,281
I dont know, but you may not need to order very many woofers from AE to get a discount

Maybe we could do a group-buy on custom AE woofers 🙄 but I doubt we could ever agree on it

Anyway, wouldnt it cut down cost if there was only one Geddes model
 
#1,282
markus76 said:
Even car manufacturer hire people to take pictures of their cars. You can't be good at at every detail of your business. On the other hand it's completely up to you to decide what's "good enough".



Probably yes. I tried it in the past, you know that.

Had the hope that you do better than http://www.linkwitzlab.com/ or http://www.musicanddesign.com/ to name two other ugly sites.
Click to expand...

I am not a car manufacturer and I can't afford to hire people to do everything.

To you, all sites but what you do are "ugly".
 
#1,286
noah katz said:
For rear mounting I was going to suggest L-clips similar to pjpoes' link.

For inside mounting you could make them from plywood for next to nothing; they could probably just be flat.
Click to expand...

You guys don't quit understand the construction of the baffle so a lot of that won't work. The speaker can't sit flat on the baffle, it has to be in a hole of depth 1/2". But I do think that clamping from the back has potential. Thanks
 
#1,287
"The speaker can't sit flat on the baffle, it has to be in a hole of depth 1/2"."

Maybe there'ssomething I'm not aware of, but I don't see the problem.

In fact, that's even better; with less of the basket protruding, a flat clamp will be more feasible because it will be at a smaller angle.
 
#1,290
noah katz said:
"What if the basket at that point is less than 1/2"? "

Then you use an L-shape clamp to reach in, a spacer ring, or a shim under the end of a flat clamp.
Click to expand...

I think that you are missing the point. I can do the engineering, I'm not that incompetent, but I'm not about to have "spacer rings" and "L-shape clamps" tooled and fabricated. Either the fasteners are off-the-shelf or they are not-an-option.
 
#1,291
"Either the fasteners are off-the-shelf or they are not-an-option."

You left out the easy plywood option (bet you could make a hundred or two per hour), I hear you.

The Parts Express look like they might work as-is using wood screws.
 
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#1,294
Sure, but those are EU prices
Im sure you can find them much cheaper

Someone suggested you could make them in wood
I could think of a number of versions that I would like better than those industrial one
I would suggest plywood "bricks" of around 3", and mounted with 2 screws, and a few drops of glue, so that they could be tapped loose, if needed
 
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#1,296
#1,298
pjpoes said:
subwoofer pictures?
Click to expand...

tripple-tapped7.jpg


The small sub is a tapped horn with three MCM 55-2421 woofers. About $35 a pop.

The big sub is a clone of a TH-Mini with a P-Audio SN-12MB. About $140.

The rectangular sub is a clone of an Autotuba, with an MCM 55-2421. I moved the mouth of the horn to couple with the pass-through from trunk to cabin in my Accord.

If you're good with wood working, three of the small subs could be a nice match for Summas. They're fairly flat to 500hz, and excursion shouldn't be much of a problem in a tapped horn. Admittedly, there is little output below 40hz - they're all for my car, where cabin gain gives us free output below 80hz.

tripple-tapped9.jpg


Here's some measurements I did this morning. The purple line is the tapped horn, the red line is the horn. Check out my posts on diymobileaudio and diyaudio for instructions on how to make them yourself.
 
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