DIY Waveguide loudspeaker kit

[gedlee]

Originally posted by pinkmouse
Earl, I think you're making life difficult for yourself with all the options. Stockholding and order processing could get very complex. I'd go for two options 'till you get yourself up and running, baffle with waveguide and foam, and complete kit, your options 1 and 3. You can always add more choices, depending on how sales go, later down the line.

Thats not really true, because the drivers are shipped out directly from the warehouse, I don't have to handle them. And the crossover parts will be too. So actually the top four options are not really a problem for me. The baffles and foam plugs I have to make so thats where the big task is and why the cost is the highest. If I elliminated anything I'd like to elliminate the whole kit (thats a real pain!), but I wonder if this wouldn't seriously limit appeal.

Comments?

[Bratislav]

Earl,

would you consider including the plans for the crossover (active or passive) to integrate subwoofer(s) ? With 100Hz -3dB it is more of a requirement than an option.

Bratislav

[JohnG]

I'd be most interested in options 3, 4, and 5. My order of preference depends on total cost including shipping, which is not really predictable at this time?

John

[gedlee]

Originally posted by Bratislav
Earl,

would you consider including the plans for the crossover (active or passive) to integrate subwoofer(s) ? With 100Hz -3dB it is more of a requirement than an option.

Bratislav

The thing is that integrating the subs with the mains is room dependent, so there is no fixed answer. I may do subs, I may not, it all depends on the success of the first trial.

[gedlee]

Originally posted by JohnG
I'd be most interested in options 3, 4, and 5. My order of preference depends on total cost including shipping, which is not really predictable at this time?

John

I gave you the estimated costs on the basic kit, shipping costs would be about another $60 I would estimate (depends on where of course - East coast is cheapest, west coast higher). Thats for option 4. Option 5 would be a little more because of the extra weight. The big shipping is on the drivers. Good drivers are heavy and they cost a lot to ship.

Upstate NY would be quite reasonable for the drivers as they come out of NJ.

[Bratislav]

Originally posted by gedlee


The thing is that integrating the subs with the mains is room dependent, so there is no fixed answer. I may do subs, I may not, it all depends on the success of the first trial.

I do understand that, and that is not what I had in mind. As you are the person who knows best what the natural roll off of the 10" in a suggested box is, you are in perfect position to suggest ideal crossover frequency and slope in order to integrate with a sub (with minimal phase shift).
What happens below that is - well - up to each individual I suppose. Multiple subs scattered around room, active correction, DRC, you name it. I'm just after the suggested high pass to mate with say 4th order LR on the sub end.

[djarchow]

Earl,

I looked at the AI speakers and are you talking about doing a baffle like the ESP10 with the roundover on the waveguide/tweeter opening?

As a DIY'r who doesn't like painted baffles at all I would rather have the waveguide etc mount just like a driver on my own veneered baffle. This way, all I would have to do is route the proper sized through hole and rebate for the waveguide and then mount it just like a a driver.

I am sure this would result in extra tooling for you but think this would give the most flexibility to the builder.

Kind regards,

Dennis

[gedlee]

Originally posted by djarchow
Earl,

I looked at the AI speakers and are you talking about doing a baffle like the ESP10 with the roundover on the waveguide/tweeter opening?

As a DIY'r who doesn't like painted baffles at all I would rather have the waveguide etc mount just like a driver on my own veneered baffle. This way, all I would have to do is route the proper sized through hole and rebate for the waveguide and then mount it just like a a driver.

I am sure this would result in extra tooling for you but think this would give the most flexibility to the builder.

Kind regards,

Dennis

As I said, this is not desirable since the rounding on the waveguide is critical to performance. Not doing it is just not something that I would ship. I want to sell something of quality. If someone justs wants a waveguide there are plenty of those on the market.

Sorry.

[gedlee]

Originally posted by Bratislav



I do understand that, and that is not what I had in mind. As you are the person who knows best what the natural roll off of the 10" in a suggested box is, you are in perfect position to suggest ideal crossover frequency and slope in order to integrate with a sub (with minimal phase shift).
What happens below that is - well - up to each individual I suppose. Multiple subs scattered around room, active correction, DRC, you name it. I'm just after the suggested high pass to mate with say 4th order LR on the sub end.

Well the system as I designed it would come with a complete set of specs so matching a sub would not be a problem. But, as I say, I would always set the sub parameters in-situ and that includes the crossover frequency. There is no way to set this independent of the room.

[critofur]

Pictures please. (or link to where we can see them)