DIY Waveguide loudspeaker kit

[pjpoes]

My problem is that I live in the Midwest with 3 foot lot lines, modern uber crap construction techniques, slab foundations, and I rent for now. I have really obnoxious neighbors living in the house next door. They actually complained to our land lord because of my vacuuming. They claimed I woke them up with it. I mean, I think they are being a bit overly sensitive.

Someday I will find a better solution, and I'm pretty sure it will include a dedicated theater room in a finished basement.

[TRADERXFAN]

I have the boxes for the abbeys all glued and sanded and shellac'd and sanded. I was going to mount the braces, (which I had forgot about) but the side to side braces are both too short, -one more than the other. about an 1/16" and 1/8".

Any ideas about how to finagle this? I though about glueing shims on both sides, oriented vertically (where thinnest point is on the top) and slide the brace down from above until they are snug and glue them in...

-Tony

[gedlee]

What often happens is a slight bow in the sides. If you have a clamp, glue the brace in and then clamp the side together. This will tighten up the fit. and expanding glue like polyurethane glue will be an advantage here. You could easily screw through the sides to draw them nto the braces, but then you have to fill the screw hole, buts that what I would do. Or a power nailer, like I have would work.

[TRADERXFAN]

Finally getting close to finished with these!

Question: What is recommended way to remove the mesh from the tweeter?

-Tony

[gedlee]

Originally posted by TRADERXFAN
Finally getting close to finished with these!

Question: What is recommended way to remove the mesh from the tweeter?

-Tony

Sharp knife through the foam and screen to the steel below. About 1/4" outside of the hole will work fine. There will be a small gap after assmebly from this, but thats what the clay is for You will note that there will be a gap from the drivers construction, you just couldn't see it with the screen on. This gets filled too. You can assemble the driver to the plate and fill that seem first and then mount the plate and do a final touch up. If you find yourself using more than a few grams - at most - of clay then something is wrong.

[amiklos]

Don't know if it is the "recommended" way, but I was successful using a small hobby knife.

I cut a few degrees around the mesh, then flipped the mesh up a little at the cut, grabbed it with a hemostat, and cut the remainder. Hemostat kept it from falling in and allowed me to tug on the mesh so I exposed a little more material when cutting (and kept my fingers away).



Excuse the background, I was sighting in a rifle that morning.

[pjpoes]

I'm confused, does the clay go where the driver meets the clear lexan adapter, or where the clear lexan adapter meets the waveguide? Or both? I only placed it where the clear lexan adapter meets the wave guide. Also, I took my driver apart and removed it that way.

[amiklos]

I put it in both places. My only reasoning was that when I ran my fingers across that area I could feel small gaps at both the driver-plate and plate-waveguide interfaces. Didn't take much at all to smooth out those areas.

[Etienne88]

Personally, I had to sand down the waveguide a little (max a few millimeters). The “throat” of the waveguide was too small for the plate… sanding it down to the right diameter was not an easy job, especially when the box is mounted and when the painting is done!
Reading Markus threat I thought that this “bug” was fixed, but not in my case… I just hope it is now for the coming customers.

Like Amiklos I put clay at both places, but very little between the plate and waveguide.

Regards,
Etienne

[pjpoes]

While I don't recall which anymore, one of those two mating points had such a small gap that I was unable to get any clay to stick without it bulging out. Once smoothed, it just sort of fell out. It's possible some stayed. I believe the only area I got any clay to stick, if I recall correctly, was between the adapter plate and waveguide.