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Old 15th March 2009, 07:58 PM   #1041
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRADERXFAN

Since the clamps were already bought and paid for it just would have been a better option for me. I am not sure if there is any real advantage to clamping it so well. But what I like to see is the glue line come out all along the seam so I can be sure I didn't miss a spot, and know its air tight. I wasn't getting that with the screws. There was a tiny bit of gap between the baffle and sides. After clamping it was very flush together.
Oh yeah, no substitute for clamps. I clamped mine up in addition to the screws. I removed the screws once the glue had cured. For me the screws were to aid with the alignment.
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Old 16th March 2009, 03:26 AM   #1042
pjpoes is offline pjpoes  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by gedlee



The Summas and all the Ai products do use cast polyurethane foam. You can't use this foam as the visible surface because it isn't hard and smooth enough. So a skin is made in fiberglass and then the baffle and waveguide were cast in the foam. It works great, best that I have found, but it is outrageous in terms of tooling and labor. The Summa versus the Abbey is a classic example - a two to one cost differential is not insignificant.

I can still make Summas, but the cost differential is just not something that many are willing to put out.
ok well that's mostly what I wanted to know. I wasn't sure how it compared in cost to good old wood for the baffle itself. I have no experience in casting parts or using this material in this way, but was impressed with the strength and dampening of some finished pieces I have of it. I can see it making a great enclosure.
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Old 16th March 2009, 12:33 PM   #1043
gedlee is online now gedlee  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by pjpoes


ok well that's mostly what I wanted to know. I wasn't sure how it compared in cost to good old wood for the baffle itself. I have no experience in casting parts or using this material in this way, but was impressed with the strength and dampening of some finished pieces I have of it. I can see it making a great enclosure.
It is great, thats why I used it, but there is a law of diminishing return on enclosure rigidity and damping and the Summas clearly exceeded it.
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Old 22nd March 2009, 04:50 AM   #1044
sba is offline sba
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Hello gedlee,

Thanks for contributing a lot of useful information on this site.

I'm interested in purchasing a pair of Nathans, primarily to listen to stereo music ( I wouldn't be using them for Home Theater, and don't have the space, budget, and electronics to incorporate the recommended subs).

What are your thoughts on porting the Nathans for LF extension? If thatís something thatís possible, would you be willing to recommend any necessary crossover modifications?

Thanks
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Old 22nd March 2009, 01:38 PM   #1045
300Z is offline 300Z  Brazil
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Quote:
Originally posted by 300Z
Any more info about it? Crossover point? Anything else other than the FR?
I take that as a NO I suppose.?.?.?
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Old 22nd March 2009, 03:57 PM   #1046
goskers is offline goskers  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by sba
Hello gedlee,

Thanks for contributing a lot of useful information on this site.

I'm interested in purchasing a pair of Nathans, primarily to listen to stereo music ( I wouldn't be using them for Home Theater, and don't have the space, budget, and electronics to incorporate the recommended subs).

What are your thoughts on porting the Nathans for LF extension? If thatís something thatís possible, would you be willing to recommend any necessary crossover modifications?

Thanks
sba,

The nathans as well as the whole summa line was designed around a complete system thought. With this in mind, multiple subwoofers placed around the room gives incredible bass. The porting of the nathans to gain a little bit of low end would be contradicting this goal.

This can sound expensive but Geddes has recommended a few 100$ units that would work quite well. This is one time in life where a quantity is better than quality.

I have a set of nathans with multiple subs and it is THE way to go.
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Old 22nd March 2009, 04:32 PM   #1047
gedlee is online now gedlee  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by sba
Hello gedlee,

Thanks for contributing a lot of useful information on this site.

I'm interested in purchasing a pair of Nathans, primarily to listen to stereo music ( I wouldn't be using them for Home Theater, and don't have the space, budget, and electronics to incorporate the recommended subs).

What are your thoughts on porting the Nathans for LF extension? If thatís something thatís possible, would you be willing to recommend any necessary crossover modifications?

Thanks
All that I can say here is that you are more than free to try such a thing, and I might even consider giving you the recommended port sizes, but I don't see that as yielding any benefit to the situation. If you can't afford to do bass, then don't do bass, but I suggest that you leave the Nathans as they are since they are right the way they are. In any case no crossover mods would be required.


Quote:
Originally posted by 300Z

I take that as a NO I suppose.?.?.?
Is this aimed at me? I didn't see the original post. What was the question? Crossover point of which product?
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Old 22nd March 2009, 07:04 PM   #1048
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"All that I can say here is that you are more than free to try such a thing, and I might even consider giving you the recommended port sizes, but I don't see that as yielding any benefit to the situation."

It sure looks like there's a big benefit to me; the plots show the 10PS26 sealed and vented, both in 1 cu ft.
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File Type: jpg 10ps26.jpg (97.5 KB, 359 views)
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Old 22nd March 2009, 07:59 PM   #1049
300Z is offline 300Z  Brazil
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Quote:
Originally posted by gedlee

Is this aimed at me? I didn't see the original post. What was the question? Crossover point of which product?
Yes.
I would like to know more about the Harper 8... crossover point and slope, waveguide specs? Anything else other than just the FR graph?
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Old 22nd March 2009, 08:40 PM   #1050
gedlee is online now gedlee  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by noah katz

It sure looks like there's a big benefit to me; the plots show the 10PS26 sealed and vented, both in 1 cu ft.
I guess if you don't use subs that would be a significant improvement. I didn't really know since I have never done it. I don't suppose you subtracted the volume of the port from the box volume. There is certainly no reason why ports couldn't be added to the enclosure. I might try this for those who don't want to opt for subs.

Quote:
Originally posted by 300Z

Yes.
I would like to know more about the Harper 8... crossover point and slope, waveguide specs? Anything else other than just the FR graph?
I don't usually look at the electrical aspects of the crossover, only the total acoustic response. The crossover point is at about 1500 Hz. The LP would be 2nd order and the HP would be (electrically) first order, but acoustically this ends up being more like third order. The waveguide "specs" are a 90 degree OS waveguide with foam plug, and a 1" throat. While I'm sure these details might interest some, its really the end result, i.e. the Polar FR that really matters no matter how you get there.

Power handling would be a conservative 100 watts with about a 94 dB sensitivity. This would give it about 104 dB MAX_SPL, which I also think is likely to be quite conservative. WIth four of them used as surrounds this would be ear splitting levels on par with the Abbey. As a stand alone speaker for stereo its acceptable, but would need some subs. A pair of these and a pair of subs would be a good choice for stereo.
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