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#41 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sweden
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Does damar need to be thinned? I'm guessing I should apply it as thin as I can?
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#42 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
What vinatge is that unit... except for the whizzer it doesn't look much like any of the Philips i'm used to seeing, but as Zen Mod says if it is anything like the ones from 70s, early 80s it should do well on an OB... what wood did you use for the phase plugs? dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#43 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sweden
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I didn't make the phase plugs, they were made by previous owner.
I believe they are from the 70 - 80's hard to tell because they are in such good condition. Model is AD 706. |
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#44 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
i thin it until it is runny, and on a full range use 2 (or maybe 3) coats on the front-- using almost as little as possible. If i wwant to significantly stiffen the cone, i'll also do the back... you end up with a poor mans sandwich cone -- but in a full-range this isn't always the best thing, since the cone needs to flex to get decent HF performance. Too much and you can turn a FR into a midbass. You can't really tell that the cone has been puzzlecoated in this one, but you can see how the damar has changed the colour of the whizzer (it used to match the surround)
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#45 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sweden
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I bouht my damar in an artstore. I'll just coat the wizzers to begin with.
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#46 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#47 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sweden
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A bit of the label has been torn of the box, all I can read is Philips AD 706 60-18000hz 25W
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