I'm going to use these Philips AD 706 6,5" Fullrange elements, quite modified.
Measured data:
8 ohms
Q=0.7
Vas= 17 liter (0,6cu.ft)
Sensitivity = 90dB
Fs = 70Hz
supposed to roll off at 18khz
They are dusty and dirty but in perfekt shape.
I'm leaning towards horns or dipoles, what du you guys think?
Measured data:
8 ohms
Q=0.7
Vas= 17 liter (0,6cu.ft)
Sensitivity = 90dB
Fs = 70Hz
supposed to roll off at 18khz
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
They are dusty and dirty but in perfekt shape.
I'm leaning towards horns or dipoles, what du you guys think?
depending of room and space you have;
try them on temp baffles ,then- if you think they deserve that,build bigger baffles with 15" bass helper and helper tweet ( if needed) ;
look at "beyond the ariel " thread
and- google for "lampizator" , then check his speaker pages
if you have no room for OB, find this :
http://www.sonido.hu/adat_pdf/DIY/DIY-MH-14-light3.pdf
try them on temp baffles ,then- if you think they deserve that,build bigger baffles with 15" bass helper and helper tweet ( if needed) ;
look at "beyond the ariel " thread
and- google for "lampizator" , then check his speaker pages
if you have no room for OB, find this :
http://www.sonido.hu/adat_pdf/DIY/DIY-MH-14-light3.pdf
Zen Mod said:
The speakers I'm building are for my brothers daughter, it's her first stereo I'm putting together. For ampification I'll use LM3886 chipamp.
My brothers budget for this build doesn't allow for further drivers.
Do I understand you correct that you suggest open baffle design?
I use that myself with Dayton 15" IB, Seas P17RCY and B&G NEO8.
Mayday said:
even if not completely adequate - and you can find out only building it- it will be miles ahead any boxie box you can made for it.
all that - if that driver is anywhere near old good AD Philips series.
anyway-little girl will be thrilled with completely unique spks
now-serious- good horn construction are way more forgivable to various driver than closed or BR boxes.
at least for my limited knowledge
Mayday, would you believe I am currently working on some 6" Panasonics, with a Fs of 76Hz, on little OBs. The idea was to extract as much sound from these as possible.
OK, they won't shake the floor, but do go quite low for what they are.
The size of the baffle is 460mm high, 300 wide, with sides, 165mm at the lower end, tapering to 118mm at the top, (to be reduced) and a full width top shelf of 76mm.
All made from recycled MDF. I started with just the baffle. Played with different sized wings, to bring the bass up. I have lost a bit of sound stage, that's why I am trimming down the sides. in my case, a bass helper will fix the bottom octave or two.
I would give the back of the cone 1 coat of PVA, the whizzer 1 coat, front and back, the area behind the whizzer a coat, then 1 more coat over all the front of the main cone.
If you have some bitumen paint/sealer, some around the perimeter of the whizzer kills of some edge resonance. A light coat on the roll surround will raise the Fs a bit, which is OK on the small baffle. Mine started at 70Hz.
She will be pleased. I have passed on a few tweaking experiments to younger folk.
Geoff.
Edit: Hey Zen, they are old Philips. Not old enough for alnico though.
OK, they won't shake the floor, but do go quite low for what they are.
The size of the baffle is 460mm high, 300 wide, with sides, 165mm at the lower end, tapering to 118mm at the top, (to be reduced) and a full width top shelf of 76mm.
All made from recycled MDF. I started with just the baffle. Played with different sized wings, to bring the bass up. I have lost a bit of sound stage, that's why I am trimming down the sides. in my case, a bass helper will fix the bottom octave or two.
I would give the back of the cone 1 coat of PVA, the whizzer 1 coat, front and back, the area behind the whizzer a coat, then 1 more coat over all the front of the main cone.
If you have some bitumen paint/sealer, some around the perimeter of the whizzer kills of some edge resonance. A light coat on the roll surround will raise the Fs a bit, which is OK on the small baffle. Mine started at 70Hz.
She will be pleased. I have passed on a few tweaking experiments to younger folk.
Geoff.
Edit: Hey Zen, they are old Philips. Not old enough for alnico though.
You got it. Actually you end up with two coats on the front of the main cone under the whizzer. This stiffens up that area to boost the top end a little.
Be patient treating the back of the cone, working under the basket. Avoid the surround, spider, and leads. Artists brushes are fine for this. You could even have your niece involved with that.
Be patient treating the back of the cone, working under the basket. Avoid the surround, spider, and leads. Artists brushes are fine for this. You could even have your niece involved with that.
Re: 12 inch philips speakers
digg them and look what type they are;
but I'm almost sure that you'll receive answer (at least from me) that they're good for nothing,and I'm generous to give proper disposal service for them,if you pay shipping............
I saw several projects on net for them ..........
bombardons?
Jaap said:
digg them and look what type they are;
but I'm almost sure that you'll receive answer (at least from me) that they're good for nothing,and I'm generous to give proper disposal service for them,if you pay shipping............
I saw several projects on net for them ..........
bombardons?
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