need cabinet for 4 1/2" fullrange, please...

[gychang]

I have a pair of these "el cheapo" speakers, excellent in BIB I had built before, so I bought more.

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...duct_id=51-075

Please recommend a larger cabinet (not a bookshelf) so I can try these. Can they be put in Cyburg Needle or TABAQ like cabinet? Thanks,

Specifications:
Power capacity: 20W/30W RMS/peak
Sensitivity: 96dB (1W/1M)
Impedance: 8ohm
Re: 7.6ohm
Le: 0.25mH
requency response: 68Hz ~ 15KHz
Fs: 68Hz
Qts: 0.38
Qes: 0.47
Qms: 1.40
VAS (liters): 8.7
Xmax: 1.0mm

thanks,

gychang

[Scottmoose]

Another? You're addicted, my friend...

So, you want another cabinet for these MCM units, but not a bookshelf. 'Larger' you say? OK, that we can do. To those that ask, shall recieve.

They'll go into Harvey, no modiications required: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...ans-030107.pdf Don't be put off by the apparantly complicated box -in reality, they're a very easy build. I constructed the prototypes in my leaking garage, with no mitre-box, no clamps, no power-tools of any kind, and a 30 year old handsaw (got the local DIY yard to cut the side-panels and the rest of the material into strips of the correct internal width, and did the rest myself. I'm a rotton woodworker too. So if I can do it, anyone can.

However, if you want to improve things further, a few changes to ~optimise the cabinet for these units will reap rewards in a flatter response & greater extension. If you fancied trying it, then reduce the back-chamber volume to 12.1 litres (mass-load the chamber with sandbags or pebbles, or use a couple of blanking plates), reduce the height of the single throat at the rear of the chamber to 1/2 inch, and the depth of the twin throats to 6/16 inch each. Everything else stays as per the plans for Harvey. These modifications are basically those I made for Bob, which I developed from Harvey for the CSS125. As it happens, they appear to improve things for other drivers too, especially the smaller throat CSA.

Any use?

Scott

[Scottmoose]

Frequency response: These appear to be pretty accurate in terms of F3 & F10 -in-room performance tallied nicely to what you'd expect from the predicted plot, despite the over / under vent location. With room-gain, expect them to be useable down to the bottom string of a bass guitar -that's what we get out of Harvey with the 126.

[gychang]

Originally posted by Scottmoose
Another? You're addicted, my friend...

They'll go into Harvey, no modiications required: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...ans-030107.pdf Don't be put off by the apparantly complicated box -in reality, they're a very easy build. I constructed the prototypes in my leaking garage, with no mitre-box, no clamps, no power-tools of any kind, and a 30 year old handsaw (got the local DIY yard to cut the side-panels and the rest of the material into strips of the correct internal width, and did the rest myself. I'm a rotton woodworker too. So if I can do it, anyone can.

However, if you want to improve things further, a few changes to ~optimise the cabinet for these units will reap rewards in a flatter response & greater extension. If you fancied trying it, then reduce the back-chamber volume to 12.1 litres (mass-load the chamber with sandbags or pebbles, or use a couple of blanking plates), reduce the height of the single throat at the rear of the chamber to 1/2 inch, and the depth of the twin throats to 6/16 inch each. Everything else stays as per the plans for Harvey. These modifications are basically those I made for Bob, which I developed from Harvey for the CSS125. As it happens, they appear to improve things for other drivers too, especially the smaller throat CSA.

Any use?

Scott

Scott: Indeed u have turned me into an addict. I think should thank u since I get enjoyment out of this without hurting others ...

You have given me another project, will study every detail of this before getting things sawed up, thanks again.

gychang

[Scottmoose]

Playing with single drivers is a harmless and enjoyable pursuit that can offer potential to let creativity loose. It's great to be able to help when I can. Have fun...

BTW: you can roll drivers with these cabinets. As essentially they're just reflex boxes with gigantic vents, and should be viewed as such (although as they couple to a large amount of air, they posess a real horn sound) they'll happily take the 126, 127, the 108 with a few tweaks, although the last might stuggle at high SPLs. Even the Monacor SPH-60X (great unit). Driver-rolling = an interesting way forward, and the antithesis of this throw-away socienty we seem to be living in at the moment. The BIBs are good for this too.

[hm]

Hello,
an alternative might be

the small Posaune:

[Scottmoose]

Out of interest, what's the back unit on that one? Same as the front, or a smaller driver?

[hm]

Hello,

Frontdriver
Tang Band
W4-1320 SB

back, invers
and change the pol:
Tang Band
W4-657 B

or
Monacor
SPH-68X/AD

[gychang]

Originally posted by Scottmoose


1. If you fancied trying it, then reduce the back-chamber volume to 12.1 litres (mass-load the chamber with sandbags or pebbles, or use a couple of blanking plates),
2. reduce the height of the single throat at the rear of the chamber to 1/2 inch, and the depth of the twin throats to 6/16 inch each.

Scott

1. Are u suggesting "C" be smaller volume?
2. don't understand...

exciting stuff...

gychang

[Scottmoose]

1) Well, the volume of the chamber to the rear of the driver could do with reducing for these units. It's currently set to 14.1 litres: reduce this to 12.1 litres however you like, either by blanking part of the chamber off, or adding sandbags or pebbles.

2) See the vertical gap at the rear of the chamber between the two throats? It's currently 1in tall. Make it 1/2in tall instead (i.e move the throats closer together, narrowing the gap between them).

The two throats currently are 3/4in deep each (i.e. both are 3/4in away from the internal back wall of the cabinet). Change that so that each is 6/16in deep (i.e. 6/16 away from the internal back wall of the cabinet.) It'll mean changing the angle of that panel fractionally, but you'll get a smoother response. BTW -the optional mouth-braces are mandatory if you use MDF. With birch ply, you should be OK without them.