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Can't wait to hear them, I'm building some open baffles for them tomorrow so I can burn them in and just get an idea for how they sound.
Does anyone else have Sigs with the tinsel leads attached to the bottom of the cone with that white goopy stuff? I hadn't seen that before, wondering if that's a design change or something from Fostex.
Speeding up Fostex break-in time.
When originally experimenting with Fostex drivers in BLHs I got tired of waiting to tune the horn while the bass came fully on line. My solution is not novel, by any means, but it works better than anything else I've tried and I treat every Fostex driver right out of the box.
Get some really thin silicone oil. I now use 1.5 wt Airsoft-Innovations stuff that's sold as a paintball magazine lubricant by Airsplat (www.airsplat.com). Then get a disposable insulin syringe from your local pharmacy; one with the smallest bore needle they have.
Draw a small amount of oil into the syringe, and holding the driver with the cone facing upwards, and, keeping the syringe with the point of the needle above the horizontal (the stuff is so thin it will easily leak otherwise), put ONE drop of oil on the spider in each of the openings in the basket. Try to deposit the drop of oil midway between the outer edge of the spider and the former. Even with a very small bore needle it's hard to consistently dispense one drop, so practice on something else before you treat the spider.
Then store the driver with the cone facing upward. Within several days the oil will have been equally distributed in the spider fabric by capillary action (you'll know because the color of the spider will darken uniformly). If for some reason you don't see uniform darkening of the fabric after several days, deposit ONE drop of oil in the center of any light patches.
Then break in the driver with a break-in track for a couple of days, which is much less of a noisome bother if you do it before mounting the driver in your cabinet.
George
When originally experimenting with Fostex drivers in BLHs I got tired of waiting to tune the horn while the bass came fully on line. My solution is not novel, by any means, but it works better than anything else I've tried and I treat every Fostex driver right out of the box.
Get some really thin silicone oil. I now use 1.5 wt Airsoft-Innovations stuff that's sold as a paintball magazine lubricant by Airsplat (www.airsplat.com). Then get a disposable insulin syringe from your local pharmacy; one with the smallest bore needle they have.
Draw a small amount of oil into the syringe, and holding the driver with the cone facing upwards, and, keeping the syringe with the point of the needle above the horizontal (the stuff is so thin it will easily leak otherwise), put ONE drop of oil on the spider in each of the openings in the basket. Try to deposit the drop of oil midway between the outer edge of the spider and the former. Even with a very small bore needle it's hard to consistently dispense one drop, so practice on something else before you treat the spider.
Then store the driver with the cone facing upward. Within several days the oil will have been equally distributed in the spider fabric by capillary action (you'll know because the color of the spider will darken uniformly). If for some reason you don't see uniform darkening of the fabric after several days, deposit ONE drop of oil in the center of any light patches.
Then break in the driver with a break-in track for a couple of days, which is much less of a noisome bother if you do it before mounting the driver in your cabinet.
George
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