Adding Tweeter to Full Range

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"On that sense you would be allowing for more resolution to be assimilated (now that last bit just came out of my head, is speculation on my part, and might be a crock -- bt at 2:30 in the morning, it seems like it might be a workable hypothesis)"

That makes sense, even if conjured up in the wee small hours. The sense of direction comes from the phase difference between the ears. Spreading the beam should reduce cone introduced phase changes.

I finally got around to trying out some KSN1038s. The idea of running these without a crossover is nothing but a marketing ploy. Unmodified, I would not use them crossed over at less than 10K. Their efficiency is not that great either, above 10K anyhow.

In my application, I wanted 103dB/w/m. Recalling Fredi's suggestion in another post, I stepped up the voltage with the aid of an auto transformer. Still about 8 dB short. However it did flatten out the FR, a combination of electronic/acoustic x-over.
 

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The resultant f/r.

The best I have heard these is with the shunt 33ohm res, and a series 0.47uf poly cap. That will provide about 91 dB/w above 10Khz.

Try and use them x-o ed at 5K and they sound like a disco. The top end is worth exploiting, if you have some laying about. But I think my solution is with new whizzer cones.

Geoff.
 

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If I remember, some piezos look to be 60ohm load at 20khz (like the 1038a, medium piezos with a peak/resonance around 4.5khz). Using a 25v line transformer (can't remember which watt tap), you hook it up in reverse. The 25v transformer is like the 70v line transformers used to hook up multiple speakers from a single amplifier such as a bunch of little speakers around a hospital.

You put the 8ohm load on the amp side and the other side (around 120ohms) to the piezo side. You have a 60ohm resistor is series on the piezo side. After doing that, now you can address the amp side of the transformer ideally with a zobel (for the tranny), and I think you could then add a notch (amp side).

Norman
 
"Piezo's crossed over in this manner don't sound as harsh and spity"

yuck. I prefer not harsh at all, and definitely not spitty.

There is a 4 page pdf from either cts or motorola that explains it. I'll dig for it later. Oh yea, you can also use an l-pad (easier load for an amplifier instead of oscilating).

Norman
 
I can't find it, it was a 4 page thing explaining it (from motorola or cts)

here's something from freddyi using the 1016a with transformer

feds1016apiezoschematic.jpg


here's spec sheet of a 1016a
http://www.martinsoundpro.com/upload/item/ksn1016.pdf

But yes, you can run them wide open or with resistor/cap, but I wouldn't.
Sorry to step on some toes here. Done right, golden ears are stunned at better than ribbon detail. Now they are harder to find (not the goldwood junk), quite pricy compared to 7 years ago, and the transformer circuitry is tricky, not much of an option for those of us doing full range thing.

Norman
 
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I have Alpair 10 units - very smooth and nice but a little shy in the treble. So wanting to add a ribbon supertweeter with a simple capacitor rather than using a 2-way crossover. Alpair 10 are about 88db so one question is matching. I've been looking at Fountek Neo CD1, 3 and 3.5H and Aurum Cantus G2si. The cheapest of these is the Neo CD1, but I'm wondering if this would match the Alpair since the sensitivity is 90db - pretty identical but leaves nothing in reserve. The others are 90-something.

I'm sure adding a ribbon is nothing new, so hopefully others can report on good solutions (the JX92 would be a similar case). Can anyone give me some help and guidance or experiences of such ribbons, or indeed suggest any other tweeter type? There's virtually nothing online on the Neo CD1, but more on the other models. Specifications show the CD1, CD3, CD3.5 and G2si left to right.
 

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Halo,

I'm using G2si on top of Fostex FE204 (older brother of FE206). Crossed with 2uF Siemens MKV cap and L-padded with Mills resistors. All I can say the top end from this units are really of high quality.

I'm planning to change my speakers for something new, with bass augumantation and most probably better full range driver, most probably whizzerless as I'm little tired of whizzer's sound and probably the only thing that will stay for some time will be G2si drivers, they are really nice and worth the money.

I'm yet to try Fostex T90A or T925A, but the cheaper Fostex were not the match for the G2si
 
Halo,

I'm planning to change my speakers for something new, with bass augumantation and most probably better full range driver, most probably whizzerless as I'm little tired of whizzer's sound

I really recommend the Alpair 10 - I got the original at a good price but the 10.2 is better still. It's very smooth - lovely unit, very good mids and decent bass too - a real full range. It replaced a Jordan JX92 which I didn't like at all - quite hard and treble got on my nerves. The Alpair is quite an un-metal like sound - very neutral.

I'm thinking it would mate well with a ribbon.

Andy
 
Thanks, have no idea what is the price, but to me it looks like the driver to use in 3 way only, or 4 way as even in 3 way lower midrange can be a problem.

If it's not expensive I would love to try it in bass reflex enclosure just for fast easy two way speaker, but no chance this to get working as I can see.

I'm thinking about something serious that can play loud and without compression.

Having spent many many hours with full range drivers that is not my cup of tea to use single driver, but I consider some serious full range driver as midrange driver in 3 way system or just very nice full ranger augumented with tweeter and bass driver.

Maybe something along Supravox, Lowther or PHY-HP

As to the Aurum Cantus G2si it is great unit for it's money, really cheap actually for what it does, try them for your Alpairs.
 
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