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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Earth
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Hi
I just got a pair of fe166e last month, but have difficulty to get the Fostex's BLH cabinet built -- it's too complicated. I am looking for another cabinet that is simpler to build. Is there any PAWO or simple Bass Reflex design esp. for floot standing one? Thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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There is a small bass reflex cabinet at the bottom of this *.pdf at Madisound:
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexdrivers/FE166E.pdf A stand could easily be built into the design to make it tall like a floor standing one. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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Martin King has a project for an older version of that driver, but, I think I've seen someone say that the 166 is a drop-in replacement .
Also there's the BIB project, for various drivers, that has a version for the 166e, fifth down. Tom.
__________________
Now, we can do this the hard way, or... well, actually there's just the hard way. -- Buffy Summers (Buffy the Vampire Slayer) |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Earth
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Quote:
Fostex's recommended bass reflex looks simple but not sure if it will work properly since Fostex said this driver is unsuitable for BR ( Do I worry overly? ). The BIB looks good I will try checking for reference if it can be used with FE166e. Any other advice are also very welcome. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
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See what anyone has to say about an MLTL for your build.
Possibly Bob Brines at Brines Acoustics or audioroundtable as well. The Mass Loaded Transmission Line has performed the best for me and the build is a lot simpler than it sounds. I'm using 4 inch Fostex FE127e's for the MLTL so the mileage will vary. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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The FE166E is not a drop-in replacement for the 164 unfortunately. It's the FE167E stablemate that's the equivalent unit.
I'm afraid your options with the 166 are far more restricted than with the 167, as the Q of the 166 is too low for it to make a natural match to an MLTL or ML TQWT. Wanting a simple box just restricts your options still further -I'm not ciriticising here, just working through in stages. You can make the 166 work in an MLTL / ML TQWT cabinet, but you'll need pretty heavy correction to get the response into line (it will rapidly rise with increasing frequency). Either massive (active) EQ, or a passive correction circuit. This will work, but the trade-off is either increased expense, if you don't already have an Eq box, or severely reduced sensitivity. The BIB is probably about the best simple cabinet option for this unit IMO, and will work fine with the 166 -you'll find some cabinet dimensions I suggested for this unit on the Zilla pages. And it will have bass. Oh yes. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Earth
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thanks for all your comment.
(though I am pretty regret for buying the fe166e -____") |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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i can vouch for the bib!
i built one, quite easy actually, and bass? ....i can vouch for the bass as well, so can every picture on my wall and every small tiem on my shelf. but i actually throoughly enjoy the bib, even without anysort of filter its amazing.
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CREEEAAAAAMMMMM CHEEEEEESSSSSSEEEEEEE!!!!! EEEEESSSSEEEEEEHC MMMMMAAAAAEEEERRCCC!!!! |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Earth
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Quote:
Thanks a lot. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
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I've been learning a bit how the BIB works in room space.
I don't have the setup for sitting back 20 ft on a big couch so my listeind space is close up in a big room. The BIB probably performs better with a larger soundstage in a big room so I'mn trying to figure where my adjustments should be. No china rattling nor do I wish for any. My exploration of these builds has been of the a/b variety-- sampling one against another so it's not true 'stereo' or surround or anything else. Still, I feel it gives an adequate representation of the device itself. for that reason and for my purposes, I always come back to the MLTL as the best solution. Still playing with all the variables, but I notices that in a/b comparison I did not care for the BIB in a corner placement. For one thing, baseboards heaters and the build itself (which is pretty much a mockup yet) did not allow for true corner placement. This leads me to think that a build like the Metronome might give the best of both worlds: relative nearfield positioning, lowered volume and good overall sound representation in the bass and treble. |
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