simple, full range, bookshelf

[dsavitsk]

I am likely asking too much ... I am looking to put together a very simple full range speaker for an office. I'll power it with a low watt SET amp, and it will not need to be particularly loud.

Ideal is to use all off the shelf parts to cobble something cheap and effective together. Even more ideal is a single driver, and no crossover.

To that end, I was looking at the DIYHiFiSupply neo-phone drivers. They list a plan to put the driver in a 13L enclosure with a small port. parts express has a .50ft^3 enclosure which is about 14L. So, all told this wold run slightly under $300. Is this worth doing, is there something easier/better/less expensive that fits what I am looking for? Is the change in enclosure size an issue? Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[bluegti]

I use the Fostex FE127E in the Folded N-monopole ML-TL design with a set of bottlehead paramours (2A3 SET around 2.5 watts) in my office.

At a recent gathering of other DIY folks, everyone liked the way they sounded even though they had a little trouble filling the large room. Small office, they are more than adequate.

 

[Fast1one]

Try searching for the "delsol" Project...

 

[VoltSecond]

Small speaker

I heard an Audio Nirvana Super 10 in a parts express box over the weekend. I was impressed. It probably could have used a bigger box. The box looked about 17 inches tall.

 

[dsavitsk]

Try searching for the "delsol" Project...

This looks intriguing, and a lot less expensive, but there are a couple of problems with the design for my purposes -- not with the design as such, but only with my ability to build it. The first is that I have no wood working facilities right now (other than a drill press to put a big hole in the front) so building my own enclosures is simply not an option. The second is that I was planning to wall mount the speakers, and I am guessing that the port in the bottom means that they need to be set on something flat.

So, if you'll bear with a couple of total newbie questions -- if they are going to be near a back wall, would it suffice to put the port in the back, or perhaps, would it be okay to put the port in the front. And, if there is something you can point me toward to read up on what ports do, and how to position them, that would be great too.

Second, the cabinets are about 0.16ft^3. What would be the effect of increasing this in size, and changing the shape. I ask because there are plenty of pre made .25ft^3 cabinets that I can use.

Third, using a ready made .25ft^3 cabinet, it might be possible to add a false bottom and more or less simulate the port system in the design by drilling some holes in the front. Is that worth considering?

And finally, the design uses the NS3-194-8E. However, the NS3-193-8A1 has, at least to my very untrained eye, a more reasonable frequency response graph (80-15K instead of 150-20K). Is this is worse choice for a driver or might it also work?

Thanks again

 

[bjorno]

Here is a 7.5L box with the Aura NS3-194-8E driver I’ve designed for low wattage and low level listening situations.
The driver is of a Qm and absorption-dampened vented-box type.

b

1(1)

 

[Fast1one]

That looks promising, what about for higher powered situations?

 

[bjorno]

Fast1one,

That looks promising, what about for higher-powered situations?

Don’t expect too much from the small Aura NS3-194-E and for much higher power, just use another size.
See my picture comparing two different drivers for different power requirements: 1(2) , the larger is an AuraNS18_992_4A I really can recommend for sub use.

Submitting a simulation of a 1.4 Litre MLTQWT with improved power capability and still with a flat FR response: 2(2) , use a sub for extension.

1(2)

 

[bjorno]

2(2)