Craftsmen questions are handled pretty well at
audioroundtable.com. It's another audio forum with skilled
builders who will answer questions. There may be areas within
DIY here as well.
It depends on where you're starting from.
If you have a table saw, the Finewoodworking dvd's such as
Mastering The Table Saw and the rest of that series is great.
If you are using hand tools such as a circular saw, then knowledge
of the Guideboard will help a lot in straight cuts.
If you have no tools a local kitchen cabinet maker likely has the
sort of cabinet grade ply and can cut a 'flat pack' from measuerments
that you can put together. Circle cutting and whatnot is handled
by anything from a jigsaw to a router with a circle guide.
I also have interest in starting a community craft center here.
Does anyone know of such a community craft center where power
tools such as table saw, router table and other large tools are
available for do it yourself projects?
audioroundtable.com. It's another audio forum with skilled
builders who will answer questions. There may be areas within
DIY here as well.
It depends on where you're starting from.
If you have a table saw, the Finewoodworking dvd's such as
Mastering The Table Saw and the rest of that series is great.
If you are using hand tools such as a circular saw, then knowledge
of the Guideboard will help a lot in straight cuts.
If you have no tools a local kitchen cabinet maker likely has the
sort of cabinet grade ply and can cut a 'flat pack' from measuerments
that you can put together. Circle cutting and whatnot is handled
by anything from a jigsaw to a router with a circle guide.
I also have interest in starting a community craft center here.
Does anyone know of such a community craft center where power
tools such as table saw, router table and other large tools are
available for do it yourself projects?
more options than I can count
A circular saw run along a clamped or screwed straight edge will provide reasonably straight saw joints.
An option is making cuts slightly over-sized, assembling and then trimming with a flush-cut router bit to make your edges match better.
This assumes you don't have a table saw. Check local trade schools or adult-education classes for access to their shops.
A circular saw run along a clamped or screwed straight edge will provide reasonably straight saw joints.
An option is making cuts slightly over-sized, assembling and then trimming with a flush-cut router bit to make your edges match better.
This assumes you don't have a table saw. Check local trade schools or adult-education classes for access to their shops.
You really need a fairly large and accurate table saw with good support tables to manage 4x4 or 4x8 MDF sheets, - in fact the clamped straight edge and hand electric is a much better solution. If the sub panels are not very large, precutting slightly oversize and trimming on the table saw is the best solution. Try to sort the pieces so that all parts of same dimension can be trimmed without moving the fence. This minimizes the problems of the "odd millimeter off".
On several occasions in the field, I've put the sheets on top of a setup of cardboard boxes, when cutting large sheets.
On several occasions in the field, I've put the sheets on top of a setup of cardboard boxes, when cutting large sheets.
A hand drill and hole saw (available in various diameters which will
work for up to the 4 in Fostex (3in Tangband W871s) etc.
I have worked with this system so far.
A couple systems for circle cutting are documented on the
net. The most precise is to use a router with the Jasper Jig
available at Parts Express (occasionally on sale-- like now, I think)
or Woodcrafters outlets. A hole is drilled for a metal insert in the
Jasper system in the center point on which to work the router.
The jig is incremented at 1/16th inch. Small increases in depth of the
cutter routes out the circle. This prevents certain kinds of tear out
which can happen when cutting a circle 'freehand' or with a jigsaw
circle jig.
The couple times I did large circles I made the cut in 2 parts (so the
disk wouldn't fall free) and then used a coping saw to do the final
trim.
Using a hole cutter is best done on a drill press. I've chucked them up
in a hand drill. Many will caution against this. The cutter can catch
and hurt your wrists if not used to just nibble a little at a time.
There is a story about someone who tried to use one of those
Milwaukee right angle hand drills with a circle cutter and dislocated his shoulder.
Also avoid adjustable 'fly cutters'. I was in the Woodcrafters and a salesman actually recommended using one of these dangerous
gizmos.
Everybody has tool horror stories. But with proper precaution
tool use can be learned.
I've been doing the hobby for years and still have all eight fingers.
work for up to the 4 in Fostex (3in Tangband W871s) etc.
I have worked with this system so far.
A couple systems for circle cutting are documented on the
net. The most precise is to use a router with the Jasper Jig
available at Parts Express (occasionally on sale-- like now, I think)
or Woodcrafters outlets. A hole is drilled for a metal insert in the
Jasper system in the center point on which to work the router.
The jig is incremented at 1/16th inch. Small increases in depth of the
cutter routes out the circle. This prevents certain kinds of tear out
which can happen when cutting a circle 'freehand' or with a jigsaw
circle jig.
The couple times I did large circles I made the cut in 2 parts (so the
disk wouldn't fall free) and then used a coping saw to do the final
trim.
Using a hole cutter is best done on a drill press. I've chucked them up
in a hand drill. Many will caution against this. The cutter can catch
and hurt your wrists if not used to just nibble a little at a time.
There is a story about someone who tried to use one of those
Milwaukee right angle hand drills with a circle cutter and dislocated his shoulder.
Also avoid adjustable 'fly cutters'. I was in the Woodcrafters and a salesman actually recommended using one of these dangerous
gizmos.
Everybody has tool horror stories. But with proper precaution
tool use can be learned.
I've been doing the hobby for years and still have all eight fingers.
I've been collecting stuff for months now to try a first project. I've been using gift cards and what not to buy stuff.
I have the jasper jig for cutting up to 7", a craftsman router ( I still need bits) and tang band drivers. Now, I just need a new work bench (left mine behind from a move) and clamps, and a electric saw. I have a mask and goggles to work with.
I don't have a drill press, just a air drill.
I have the jasper jig for cutting up to 7", a craftsman router ( I still need bits) and tang band drivers. Now, I just need a new work bench (left mine behind from a move) and clamps, and a electric saw. I have a mask and goggles to work with.
I don't have a drill press, just a air drill.
Bob2 said:
For a fat fee no doubt. I just see the need for access to tools outside of the educational system for the casual user.
Years ago there was a piece in Speakerbuilder about a short course program at MIT for speaker design. It was hands on class where the
students had a set of speakers at the end of it. This would be great.
A session on building a tube amp kit would be neat too. But I see this as a function of a community project not unlike a senior center where the activities have less structure.
The issue of insurances always comes up when I mention this.
Well, if you go to a rental place, the rental place doesn't guarantee
you won't cut your fingers off and they still rent tools. You perhaps sign a responsibility agreement for rental gear and the same would be true for a community craft shop.
The advantage I see with a community craft center (years ago
they were called do it yourself shops and there was one in my
neighborhood when I was a kid (1962 or so) is that there's an
extra hand around to help out when you need it.
loninappleton
Up here in the frozen north, I know of one school that has a evening course, cost is quite reasonable. The idea is to expose people to woodworking and how to use the appropriate tool.
Also Canadian Woodworker, a local wood working tool supplier offer various classes on the use of different tools. Of course they cost a bit more, being a private company.
Point being, if you look around you may be surprized with what you may find, good luck.
Bob
Up here in the frozen north, I know of one school that has a evening course, cost is quite reasonable. The idea is to expose people to woodworking and how to use the appropriate tool.
Also Canadian Woodworker, a local wood working tool supplier offer various classes on the use of different tools. Of course they cost a bit more, being a private company.
Point being, if you look around you may be surprized with what you may find, good luck.
Bob
Yes I have seen night courses around and whatnot.
However what I'd like to see is a facility open to the public.
I was a kid when the do it your self shops were around so I have little
in the way of info on how they worked for sign-in, tool use, materials
acquisition etc.
But today my idea was to have a location such an old supermarket
or other building of the right size with loading facilities etc purchased
by the municipality for sustainable energy projects and the craft shop
all in one. So the place would be an energy lab and craft shop... a community center like a senior facility. The senior facility here was put together in such a supermarket location. Tools could be donated or the recruitment of vendors could be used as promotion for their products.
Done in the right way, it could get coverage from the national
magazines for hobby work and also architecture/building trades.
However what I'd like to see is a facility open to the public.
I was a kid when the do it your self shops were around so I have little
in the way of info on how they worked for sign-in, tool use, materials
acquisition etc.
But today my idea was to have a location such an old supermarket
or other building of the right size with loading facilities etc purchased
by the municipality for sustainable energy projects and the craft shop
all in one. So the place would be an energy lab and craft shop... a community center like a senior facility. The senior facility here was put together in such a supermarket location. Tools could be donated or the recruitment of vendors could be used as promotion for their products.
Done in the right way, it could get coverage from the national
magazines for hobby work and also architecture/building trades.
You can also fasten the part that will fall free (the "hole") to a piece of sacrificial board using hot-melt glue and clamp the whole set-up down on the bench; this allows doing it without resetting the router, etc.
Nothing wrong with fly-cutters if used in a drill press - they are safe, versatile, and can be used to make circle sizes not available in hole saws.
Me too - though sometimes they feel like all thumbs
Regards.
Aengus
"Eight fingers," said tongue in cheek just to clarify. No smiley
as I originally indicated.
Yeah, I've been looking for the right kind of fabric or whatevs to
suspend using a couple of sticks to clamp the fabric and drop it
down in there. Such a contraption would allow turning for adjustment
though I think Greg said that placing it on the diagonal would be preferred.
All this could be better laid out in the build process. As it is these
things are thought off after the glue sets and some listening is done.
as I originally indicated.
Yeah, I've been looking for the right kind of fabric or whatevs to
suspend using a couple of sticks to clamp the fabric and drop it
down in there. Such a contraption would allow turning for adjustment
though I think Greg said that placing it on the diagonal would be preferred.
All this could be better laid out in the build process. As it is these
things are thought off after the glue sets and some listening is done.
loninappleton said:
Interesting idea, particularly if the municipality in question relies on the woodworking industry for jobs. Or perhaps you are thinking of the artists' colonies during the Arts & Crafts period?
Woodcraft, which I think you mentioned earlier, also has The Woodworker's Club in some locations. You need to pay-to-play, but the rates didn't strike me as too outrageous for small project needs. Their shops have more gear than I'll ever be able to afford, let alone fit into my two-car garage.
Aengus said:
You can also fasten the part that will fall free (the "hole") to a piece of sacrificial board using hot-melt glue and clamp the whole set-up down on the bench; this allows doing it without resetting the router, etc.
Nothing wrong with fly-cutters if used in a drill press - they are safe, versatile, and can be used to make circle sizes not available in hole saws.
Me too - though sometimes they feel like all thumbs
Regards.
Aengus
Personally I always try to cut the driver hole(s) before permanently attaching the baffle panels to the enclosure. When using a router (either a Jasper jig or shop made hole jig for custom sizes), plunge through with a 1/2" bit on the 2nd or 3rd pass, and then back off to leave approx 1mm remaining - now worries about the bit slipping when you complete the circle.
Then flip the workpiece over, and trim off with 3/8" flush trim bit for a clean hole. The other option, if the baffle panel(s) are already attached would be to make the final pass with a top bearing pattern following bit - reference the bearing to the outside circumference, and you can let the center cut-out fall into the box.
You might get a little burn or tell-tale marks if your jig's pivot hole is sloppy or the bit is dull / nicked - but far less than if you let the centre fall through. With smaller diameter drivers ( e.g. 6" or 4.5" ), which generally benefit with chamfer to rear of opening, it's much easier to complete all machining before attaching the baffle, particularly if you want to leave some pads for installation of T-nuts or threaded insert fittings.
I tried a fly cutter once - no thanks, and there's always the limit to size of your drill press work table.
OK, I'm getting a bit confused (and likely I caused some confusion).
I agree with chrisb - cut the holes before attaching the baffles. That's what I was thinking of when I talked about fastening the thing to a sacrificial board; you couldn't do that if the baffle was already part of a closed box.
Bob2, I don't have a Jasper jig, I use a shop-built circle-cutting base (less convenient, since I have to measure for each hole, but cheaper ). Agreed that a flush trim and a rabbeting bit will do the job too.
Regards.
Aengus
I agree with chrisb - cut the holes before attaching the baffles. That's what I was thinking of when I talked about fastening the thing to a sacrificial board; you couldn't do that if the baffle was already part of a closed box.
Bob2, I don't have a Jasper jig, I use a shop-built circle-cutting base (less convenient, since I have to measure for each hole, but cheaper
). Agreed that a flush trim and a rabbeting bit will do the job too.Regards.
Aengus
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