I have purchase a pair of AN8 std to get me into the FR DIY world.
I built the cabinet using Commonsense cabinet plan (BR with two 3" holes cutout as port). I am driving them with a Audio Space Kt88 integrated amp.
Just wonderting what cabinet will draw the best out of these drivers. BIB or Bruce 1.1
I am planning to move up to a pair of Fostex (206 or 208) later and hopefully I can reuse the cab.
I built the cabinet using Commonsense cabinet plan (BR with two 3" holes cutout as port). I am driving them with a Audio Space Kt88 integrated amp.
Just wonderting what cabinet will draw the best out of these drivers. BIB or Bruce 1.1
I am planning to move up to a pair of Fostex (206 or 208) later and hopefully I can reuse the cab.
Depends on your room really. They'll sound very different, that's for sure. The BIBs use the room more, and are more position dependant. They'll go lower, though Bruce should still give ~30Hz. Bruce is closer to direct radiation, while the BIB, particularly in the LF, has a real feel of omni and dipole designs.
Thanks Scott for the feedback.
My room is in the basement and is rectangluar in shape with the listerning chair facing the narrow side. All carpeted. It is about 25' on the long side and 17' on the narrow side but I can only set my chair away from the speaker wall no more than 13' since there are table and chairs in the way beyond that. One side of the 25' is basement wall and the other side at the speaker wall end opens to a hallway.
The ceiling is about 7' high from the front listerning wall (big bulk-head for duct works) for about 10' and then 8.5' high beyond that.
For BIB will 7' ceiling work since I the measurment I have for BIB for the AN8 is about 70" high, that leaves about 1' clearance from the ceiling.
My room is in the basement and is rectangluar in shape with the listerning chair facing the narrow side. All carpeted. It is about 25' on the long side and 17' on the narrow side but I can only set my chair away from the speaker wall no more than 13' since there are table and chairs in the way beyond that. One side of the 25' is basement wall and the other side at the speaker wall end opens to a hallway.
The ceiling is about 7' high from the front listerning wall (big bulk-head for duct works) for about 10' and then 8.5' high beyond that.
For BIB will 7' ceiling work since I the measurment I have for BIB for the AN8 is about 70" high, that leaves about 1' clearance from the ceiling.
That should load it very nicely indeed. Better than a taller ceiling. A bloke who owns a pair of Terry's original 168 BIBs for example has them in an alcove -no problems at all. Terry's description was'it would be too much bass except there's no boom. It's all hard and pulpy bass, and smooth.' Sounds pretty good to me!
Hi Scott,
Will be starting to build the BIB for my AN8. Wanted to find out how these drivers performs in the BIB design.
Got this measurements from a thread somewhere but could not find it anymore. Just wanted to confirm them:
"... assume 3/4" build material. 70" tall with a total line-length of 140". Driver 39" from the base. 10" external width. 18" external depth. The sloping internal baffle will terminate 7 14/16" from the base and the front and rear internal walls. You'd need a wire with fairly high resistance -24AWG or something similar should do. Just pull a single twisted pair out of a run of Cat5. That should do the trick. Ideally, the cabinets should be taller, proably around 87 1/2" tall, but that would put the driver far too high to be at all practical. I used these dimensions recently for a pair of boxes with the FF225K. With the 30AWG magnet wire Terry suggested in his original article, they were stunning on orchestral pieces.."
Will be starting to build the BIB for my AN8. Wanted to find out how these drivers performs in the BIB design.
Got this measurements from a thread somewhere but could not find it anymore. Just wanted to confirm them:
"... assume 3/4" build material. 70" tall with a total line-length of 140". Driver 39" from the base. 10" external width. 18" external depth. The sloping internal baffle will terminate 7 14/16" from the base and the front and rear internal walls. You'd need a wire with fairly high resistance -24AWG or something similar should do. Just pull a single twisted pair out of a run of Cat5. That should do the trick. Ideally, the cabinets should be taller, proably around 87 1/2" tall, but that would put the driver far too high to be at all practical. I used these dimensions recently for a pair of boxes with the FF225K. With the 30AWG magnet wire Terry suggested in his original article, they were stunning on orchestral pieces.."
For reference, I'd use the dimensions I suggest on www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp for the FE206E. If you want to make it shorter, as this is a tall cabinet, then reduce to the aforementioned 70in, and install the driver at 28.5in down from the sealed end. Should do the job nicely & a bit more compact.
Ack!
Now there's a bit of info I didn't know about or hadn't noticed before.
So Scott, the taller the room the worse the bass response? Or is it the further the distance from the top of the cabinet to the ceiling, the worse it becomes?
While my current enclosures are rather tall, 86" there is still about 22" to the ceiling from the top of the cabinet!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You'll have to pardon my unfinished paint job, it's on the list.
Rick
Also Scott, while on the subject of bass response & room issues.
Should a BIB be coupled to the floor, as in sitting flat upon it?
Or, is it better to decouple the cabinet from the floor as Terry Cain usually did?
And, are there any benefits to a down firing BIB as opposed to a top firing one? Also what's the scoop on angling the mouth of a BIB?
For me this is quickly becoming an eye opening thread!
Rick
Should a BIB be coupled to the floor, as in sitting flat upon it?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or, is it better to decouple the cabinet from the floor as Terry Cain usually did?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And, are there any benefits to a down firing BIB as opposed to a top firing one? Also what's the scoop on angling the mouth of a BIB?
For me this is quickly becoming an eye opening thread!
Rick
Depends on the cabinet, the driver, & tuning as to the 'ideal' distance & it's take someone with more math ability than me to figure it out. Given that there's just about nothing we can do about ceiling height, sort of building a new room, which isn't the most practical of propositions, I wouldn't worry too much. 22in isn't bad at all. Generally, with a well-tuned cabinet, it'll be forgiving of ceiling height, so long as it's got a wall or two to boost the effective terminus CSA. A close coupling will boost the LF gain (very close will effectively mass-load the cabinet); further way will reduce it, but even in free-space it'll still give the kind of performance you see in the MathCad graphs, which is 'substantial'.
The base of the BIB wants to be as lossy as possible to help prevent the unwanted higher frequencies from leaking through the horn and messing up the imaging. Decoupling is therefore probably a pretty good idea. Mine used semi-spherical pieces of cork rather than spikes, which I've never liked.
The base of the BIB wants to be as lossy as possible to help prevent the unwanted higher frequencies from leaking through the horn and messing up the imaging. Decoupling is therefore probably a pretty good idea. Mine used semi-spherical pieces of cork rather than spikes, which I've never liked.
Hi, my take on ceiling height.
I have 1.25 m from mouth to ceiling and there's no lack of bass. I guess it's room dependant.
Cheers
I have 1.25 m from mouth to ceiling and there's no lack of bass. I guess it's room dependant.
Couldn't agree more, spikes can be good if one has concrete floor but with floating parquet, a softer (decoupling) material is preferred by me. Mouse mats is quite good as a cheap alternative also.
Cheers
Thanks guys!
You know I've always wondered about the sharp spikes you see used. That must just destroy hardwood floors. I guess in the average house with carpet over under-lament it wouldn't be so bad as long as didn't snag the carpet.
A guy could turn some from oak or birch. I guess as long as the taper wasn't to drastic you wouldn't need to worry about breaking them. Of course you could turn them from say, Lignum Vitae, those would be harder and tougher than brass!
Rick
You know I've always wondered about the sharp spikes you see used. That must just destroy hardwood floors. I guess in the average house with carpet over under-lament it wouldn't be so bad as long as didn't snag the carpet.
A guy could turn some from oak or birch. I guess as long as the taper wasn't to drastic you wouldn't need to worry about breaking them. Of course you could turn them from say, Lignum Vitae, those would be harder and tougher than brass!
Rick
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