BIB's, what drivers do you use?

[Rick J. B.]

As for myself I'm going to make my pair of DX-3's work in this design.

So what is everyone else using?

Rick

[Scottmoose]

For my own boxes, I've used FE166E, Monacor SPH-60X and FF165K, all to excellent results. 165 has the best bass. I built a pair for a friend with FF225K as well. BIG sound.

[pjanda1]

Hemp Acoustics FR8's. I love the drivers, and the BIB enclosures take them to a whole new level as compared to my previous BR and sealed alignments.

I've been wondering when someone would build a pair with Lowthers. I expect they will work fantastically, and it will sure be a simpler build than most of the Lowther enclosures I've seen (Martin's excluded). Obviously you beat most of us to the BIB by a couple of years, but I think you'll find much more success with one of the sim'd designs.

pj

[gychang]

mine looks and sounds great!.

gychang

[gychang]

one is "el cheapo" (tall one) and the smaller one is FE107E.

gychang

[Rick J. B.]

Originally posted by pjanda1
Hemp Acoustics FR8's. I love the drivers, and the BIB enclosures take them to a whole new level as compared to my previous BR and sealed alignments.

I've been wondering when someone would build a pair with Lowthers. I expect they will work fantastically, and it will sure be a simpler build than most of the Lowther enclosures I've seen (Martin's excluded). Obviously you beat most of us to the BIB by a couple of years, but I think you'll find much more success with one of the sim'd designs.

pj

I am certainly hoping so pjanda.

I think on my next enclosure for the DX-3's I'll mock something up in OSB first and then if they sound good I'll make some nice ones.

I'm leaning toward using 1.25" birch ply and then veneering them with something sharp like figured cherry or quartered white oak.

Rick

[badman]

Originally posted by Scottmoose
For my own boxes, I've used FE166E, Monacor SPH-60X and FF165K, all to excellent results. 165 has the best bass. I built a pair for a friend with FF225K as well. BIG sound.

FF225k is a shockingly ignored driver- the bass sensitivity is much better than most full ranges, but people see '96 dB, .3mm xmax' and get shy. Fantastic unit, no rising response (well, no relevant one) and no shout or suckout.

[pjanda1]

Originally posted by Rick J. B.


I am certainly hoping so pjanda.

I think on my next enclosure for the DX-3's I'll mock something up in OSB first and then if they sound good I'll make some nice ones.

I'm leaning toward using 1.25" birch ply and then veneering them with something sharp like figured cherry or quartered white oak.

Rick

I'm envious of your cabinets. I could veneer mine, but I know they'd be kind of ugly. I suppose you can't learn to do it well without first trying, but when they're the biggest things in your living room, you hate to do 'em ugly.

I bet the OSB will have some resonances and flex, but it will definitely let you know whether you are getting the bass you are after. Make sure you either use the recommended series resistor size, or order some plenum grade Cat5 (I'd get Belden) of the appropriate length. (One run will do, as you get four twisted pairs from each run, and you only need one per side.)

pj

[Rick J. B.]

Originally posted by Scottmoose
For my own boxes, I've used FE166E, Monacor SPH-60X and FF165K, all to excellent results. 165 has the best bass. I built a pair for a friend with FF225K as well. BIG sound.

Okay Scott, let me ask you this, why those particular drivers, and which do you like the best?

[Rick J. B.]

Originally posted by pjanda1


I'm envious of your cabinets. I could veneer mine, but I know they'd be kind of ugly. I suppose you can't learn to do it well without first trying, but when they're the biggest things in your living room, you hate to do 'em ugly.

I bet the OSB will have some resonances and flex, but it will definitely let you know whether you are getting the bass you are after. Make sure you either use the recommended series resistor size, or order some plenum grade Cat5 (I'd get Belden) of the appropriate length. (One run will do, as you get four twisted pairs from each run, and you only need one per side.)

pj

"OSB" definitely not the best material that's for sure. But I can get 3/4" 4x8's really cheap.

As for the veneering, it's really not very hard. There's one or two techniques that one needs to understand but after that it's no deal. Traditionally veneer was adhered with hide glue and that's a difficult way to do it. Mills that produce veneered sheet stock usually use pva and then hot press it. Obviously the average diy guy isn't going to do that. But some of the modern contact adhesives work great and are fairly easy to use. Maybe I could write a tutorial so the average garage warrior could both build his boxes well, but also veneer them for a better appearance.

Rick