I am running DX2s. I have both a modded Voigt (14 " square baffle that looks surpisingly good) and MJK MLTL clone cabs, using a MJK clone variable BSC.
Very happy, but am missing the 50 Hz & lower stuff, and am thinking of subs, preferably to 20- 25 Hz.
The Voigts are good to 65 ish then fade, MLTLs 55 then fade.
I have 15 foot ceiling, so an El-Pipe-O would fit, and I am also interested in some OB-Dipole styles with something 12-15 inch and not too expensive from Parts Express. Probably use a plate amp to get a free Xover too.
Has anyone succesfully integrated home made subs with such fast drivers as these. But, they need to be musical, not just for HT effects.
Any help appreciated.
Very happy, but am missing the 50 Hz & lower stuff, and am thinking of subs, preferably to 20- 25 Hz.
The Voigts are good to 65 ish then fade, MLTLs 55 then fade.
I have 15 foot ceiling, so an El-Pipe-O would fit, and I am also interested in some OB-Dipole styles with something 12-15 inch and not too expensive from Parts Express. Probably use a plate amp to get a free Xover too.
Has anyone succesfully integrated home made subs with such fast drivers as these. But, they need to be musical, not just for HT effects.
Any help appreciated.
Hmmm....
While my MLTL's have slightly different dimensions than MJK's, but not that much. Mine go into the upper 30's with authority , and so should MJK's. Have you over stuffed the cabinets? Something between 1/4 and 1/2 lb of polyfill in the upper half of the cabinet is enough. Have you played with the port tuning? 4"x4" round port is about right.
To answer your real question, the secret to making a sub work with a MLTL is to cross the sub in as low as possible. I have mine set to 40 Hz, for whatever that actually means, and it works pretty well. If you set it too high, you get bloaty upper bass. A second option, particularly for HT, is to let your HT receiver do the XO. Set the mains to "small" and set the XO to 40-80 Hz if this option is available. But the best option is to put a digital XO on the preouts.
Bob
While my MLTL's have slightly different dimensions than MJK's, but not that much. Mine go into the upper 30's with authority , and so should MJK's. Have you over stuffed the cabinets? Something between 1/4 and 1/2 lb of polyfill in the upper half of the cabinet is enough. Have you played with the port tuning? 4"x4" round port is about right.
To answer your real question, the secret to making a sub work with a MLTL is to cross the sub in as low as possible. I have mine set to 40 Hz, for whatever that actually means, and it works pretty well. If you set it too high, you get bloaty upper bass. A second option, particularly for HT, is to let your HT receiver do the XO. Set the mains to "small" and set the XO to 40-80 Hz if this option is available. But the best option is to put a digital XO on the preouts.
Bob
Bob,
I had just gone with cloning MJK's, so a 2 inch long port and a bit more stuffing. I was worried about tuning too low and so having a gap in mid bass somewhere where the TL action ran out before direct radiation cuts in, but will try.
Yeah I was going to use the LFE output of the player (120 cut) and then use the plate amp X over to filter hard. But still run the mains full range, and just dial in a mono sub to fill the lower frequencies. The 'small speakers' output of my player is filtered just too high, and even in a big room, I have plenty of volume from the Lowthers with a 5 w pc amp, without bass excursion problems (well, except on a few movies).
You have any feelings on a big TL or OB dipole (probably use the Dayton 15 IB driver for an OB dipole, lower QTs for a TL) ?
Thanks
Graham
Graham
I had just gone with cloning MJK's, so a 2 inch long port and a bit more stuffing. I was worried about tuning too low and so having a gap in mid bass somewhere where the TL action ran out before direct radiation cuts in, but will try.
Yeah I was going to use the LFE output of the player (120 cut) and then use the plate amp X over to filter hard. But still run the mains full range, and just dial in a mono sub to fill the lower frequencies. The 'small speakers' output of my player is filtered just too high, and even in a big room, I have plenty of volume from the Lowthers with a 5 w pc amp, without bass excursion problems (well, except on a few movies).
You have any feelings on a big TL or OB dipole (probably use the Dayton 15 IB driver for an OB dipole, lower QTs for a TL) ?
Thanks
Graham
Graham
Graham,
Don't worry about the TL action quiting too soon. Go with the 4" port.
Cutting the MLTL's off at 120 is way too high, so you are doing all that you can. You will just have to play with it.
The very best that you can do is in the wall IB's with a pair of 15's on either side. That's probably out of the range of possibilities, so consider a 15" sealed box. That will often integrate with the room better than a BR. As for OB's I have no experience.
Bob
Don't worry about the TL action quiting too soon. Go with the 4" port.
Cutting the MLTL's off at 120 is way too high, so you are doing all that you can. You will just have to play with it.
The very best that you can do is in the wall IB's with a pair of 15's on either side. That's probably out of the range of possibilities, so consider a 15" sealed box. That will often integrate with the room better than a BR. As for OB's I have no experience.
Bob
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