Best cabinet design for ten thumbed lowther EX3 owner!? please - diyAudio
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Old 22nd November 2006, 02:16 PM   #1
klykx is offline klykx  France
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Default Best cabinet design for ten thumbed lowther EX3 owner!? please

I was overtaken by a fit of speaker envy and bought a pair of EX3s on ebay for about half retail price....

I now need to do them justice by putting them in a suitable cabinet. I am also terrible at woodwork and blew all my money on the drivers (I know that was not too smart) so I will not have the funds to get somebody else to make the cabinets.

Therefore, I throw myself on the mercy of diyaudio gurus and humbly ask for suggestions for the oxymoronic easy horn design for EX3s.


sincerely

Peter
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Old 22nd November 2006, 02:28 PM   #2
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Check these out. Should be pretty simple to build, supposed to sound very good.

http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pa...2000/Main.html
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Old 22nd November 2006, 02:38 PM   #3
klykx is offline klykx  France
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Thanks for the link. I came across Mr Brines outstanding work when I was looking for my first project, fe207e MLTLs (MJK's project 5) which are currently producing good sound but (with my lousy woodworking skills) look pretty awful.

With these EX3's I'd really like to find a BLH design that is easy to build but, to date, everything looks REALLY difficult.

I should also mention that I live in a small apartment with NO outside space so any building I do will occupy the living space I have until it is finished....


cheers


Peter
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Old 22nd November 2006, 04:48 PM   #4
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Probably a pair of Fostex horns like the FE208ESigma or the FE206ES-R designs would do the trick. Although they look complex, they're simple enough to build as it's all right angle construction. That's about it for high quality, simple-to-build cabinets at the moment though. A BIB might be possible, but it would depend on if you a) have corners to load them properly, and b) don't mind a pair of 80in tall cabinets in your room.
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Old 22nd November 2006, 05:48 PM   #5
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EX3's are not well suited for resonant cabinets such as mine or BIB's. The extra basket of the back prevents them from loading the cabinet well. To make them work in resonant cabinets, you must remove the basket and convert them to DX3's -- simple mod, but it does void your warranty. If you can accept the somewhat reduced dynamics of a MLTL over a backhorn, you will find the clarity and detail of the DX3 simply awesome.

Bob
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Old 22nd November 2006, 06:22 PM   #6
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Good catch Bob. I saw EX3 but was thinkng DX3 for some reason. My bad.
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Old 22nd November 2006, 06:40 PM   #7
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You and me both. Thanks Bob.

Good job I mentioned the Fostex horns before the BIB (OK, I didn't get away with it! I hold my hands up on that one! )
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Old 22nd November 2006, 07:14 PM   #8
KeithC is offline KeithC  United Kingdom
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I initially built a pair of Voigt pipes for my EX2's, then ran them open baffle with a subwoofer.

Upgraded to EX3's, bought a pair of Icon Audio rear horn cabinets, and have now upgraded again to EX4's.

You can't get any simpler than open baffle, and the Lowthers sound superb, but lack bottom end. However a subwoofer at relatively low level (say 45db to the Lowthers at 80db) with the sub rolled of as steeply as possible from around 100Hz fills in the bottom end nicely. Only problem is that I have yet to hear a sub that integrates well with the Lowthers.
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Old 22nd November 2006, 07:55 PM   #9
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A problem with adding a sub to the bottom of an OB: Your OB, Lowther or anything else, is rolling off at 6 dB/octave, and with EX4's, that roll off starts pretty high. You need to roll your sub off at a LOW rate to match the OB roll off. Better, you really need to high-pass the OB. A second problem is that the driver is going to be exceeding the 1mm Xmax long before the sub rolls in.

I've had good luck, at least with BR's and MLTL's using the receiver DSP to do the cross-over. I presume that using a digital cross-over would work equally well. I doubt that you will get it to work very well with a passive XO.

Bob
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Old 22nd November 2006, 09:33 PM   #10
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For reference, James D runs AER MK1 drivers, with Supravox bass units in his Quasar panels (with extended side-pieces), drivers wired in series, with a series XO, the bass unit low down to the floor. That works. Oh boy, does it work. I heard them last Saturday, along with a couple of budget versions using Fostex drivers, Nick's 167 with Eminence Beta 15, and Paul's 108ESigma with a spectacularly cheap 12in wide-range units who's name has temporarily escaped me, and was left stunned. Not entirely to my taste, as TLs and horns remain my great loves in speaker terms, but this method is staggeringly effective.

I wouldn't want to try it with a dipole Lowther and a normal monopole sub though.
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