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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: house
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Here's one I've been keeping under wraps, but it's time to share.
Use the Aura NS3-194-8E, on sale for $10.50 from Madisound. http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind....9881&pid=1705 Ignore the fs, it does far better than the numbers indicate. Especially in my box. One half sheet of MDF (you might could squeeze it out of a quarter sheet, with no mistakes) Some padding for the back wall ( felt or carpet pad) 2"dia PVC (you can play with the port size) 1/2"hardwood face, or use 1/2" MDF or birch ply if you have to, but it won't sound as good. Mine is maple. I developed this for use with the t-amp, and have found it works very well with the higher powered amp6. I present this as an experimental starting point, and welcome suggestions. design goals were- cheap, simple, audiophile sound, no crossover, just a driver (mechanical mods only), rock the party. plans at - http://www.flickr.com/photos/47642593@N00/295706737/ Just build 'em- I think you'll be glad you did. Pekar |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: house
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Bottom pic. These are prototypes, I have yet to make the pretty pair.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Reminds me of the Hawaii 5.0 for the defunct RS40-1354. Nice work.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary on the Bow
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wondering if the pipe section can be replaced with a rectangular section of vent that runs up the inside of the back wall? You might even get away with just a slot in the bottom at the back edge. That way if you place a bottom on the cabinet you can stand mount the speaker and your vent still works. Is there a special interaction going on between the two vent sections in this design? As it stands the vent action will be modified depending on what kind of surface the speaker sits on (ie. smooth floor or carpeted). Comments? Regards Moray James.
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moray james |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Memo to self:
Buy some of these. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Nice little inexpensive project.
What sort of finish are you planning for the enclosure?
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DIY Audio Projects [ 10" DIY Subwoofer | FE127E Sealed Bipole | [ LM3886 Chip Amp / Gainclone | K-12M Tube Amp Kit ] |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: house
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I intended that these be set on a hard surface like a desktop or bookshelf, not the floor. It would be easy enough to incorporate a bottom for other uses.
You can do whatever you want with the vent, but I already tried the slot idea, with inferior results. Vents along walls are generally a bad idea. I plan to use some birdseye maple for the face, with a painted body. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: dallas
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Trying these same drivers in small sealed box, what volume and tuning freq are you using and are you happy with the sound? Ref my thread aurasound 3" I still think a TL is the solution but haven’t gotten any feed back yet. And to james as long as you know then box tuning freq a rect port should be easy to calculate.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary on the Bow
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provide
a broader BW in terms of load as compared to round or square ducts. Seemed simpler to construct with all rectangular vents and I can see no advantage to switching to a round tube duct (in keeping with the design goal of ease of build). You could stretch this into two ducts and have a mini Onken design. This would also provide some internal cabinet reinforcment. Regards Moray James.
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moray james |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: house
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The attached pic. is similar to what I tried, and was unhappy with the result.
Your idea is interesting, reminds me of the Solo-103. This box is really quite small, and with 3/4" walls needs no bracing, IMO. Pekar |
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