Delsol- inexpensive full range bookshelf. - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 14th November 2006, 01:42 AM   #11
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Default good picture....

yes that is what I had thought as it keeps things very simple with now round holes to cut or pipe to buy. What ever the tunning of the pipe you are using it can be matched this way without much effort. Dave Dlugos (PLANET 10) has a design for a mini Onken for a Fostex Fe127e on his site. While the tunning is lower than would be for your design the size is close and retunning the vents could be done to suit your driver. Though given the rather high Fs I am not sure there is really a lot of point to it as a sealed bos of not a lot of volume should attain the similar results but it is a nice design. Regards Moray James.
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Old 14th November 2006, 10:53 AM   #12
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As built, that lower chamber forms an acoustic lowpass which probably helps stop any upper midrange leakage from the port. Pekar, have you tried listening to these on their side (defeating the slot-loading of the vent)? Do you notice a change in performance? Or, can one be measured?
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Old 15th November 2006, 08:29 PM   #13
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I don't find round ports especially inconvenient. I've done it with a 2" holesaw by butting the pvc to the hole and gluing it in place.
I did use a router to cut the 2 3/8" hole for the enclosure in the picture.
It depends on which tools are at hand.


When tipped on its side bass performance suffers.

I would also like to point out that this driver was designed by Ben Tang, and that it has a neodymium magnet.

Pekar
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Old 19th November 2006, 11:09 PM   #14
pekar is offline pekar  United States
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I've modeled Delsol in google sketchup.
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Old 19th November 2006, 11:12 PM   #15
pekar is offline pekar  United States
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another view
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Old 19th November 2006, 11:20 PM   #16
pekar is offline pekar  United States
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Bottom view.

If there's any interest I can figure out a way to pass on Delsol's Sketchup file, if you want to give it a spin. I haven't seen many using this program yet, but it's free and pretty powerful.

Pekar
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Old 20th November 2006, 03:36 AM   #17
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Go to the Google menu & Share the Model

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Old 20th November 2006, 03:57 PM   #18
pekar is offline pekar  United States
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Thanks, I've uploaded it. A search for DelSol should locate it.
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Old 29th November 2006, 03:33 PM   #19
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Construction tips.*

1. Tune up your tablesaw. http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf

2. Rip the bottom and backs first at 5"wide.

3. Crosscut them oversize, and label each. Check your parts for square. Square parts fit together much better!

4. Rip the sides at 8 1/4".

5. Crosscut the sides at 9" (you can use the rip fence here). Label them and draw lines on the inside face indicating where the back and bottom meet. Use a square and be precise. Check that these parts are square.

6. Rip the top and face slightly oversize at 6 3/4"

7. Locate and cut the port hole in the bottom. This is either 2" or about 2 3/8" dia.. Round over the bottom of the port with a router only if butting the PVC to the inside of a 2" dia hole (1/4" bit).

8. Draw on the inside of the back where the bottom meets it 1" up.
Test assemble one side, back and bottom. if happy with the dimensions, test clamp these three parts.
Once happy, I like to assemble this much and let it dry overnight, before adding the other side and top. This method is more time consuming, but avoids fasteners like nails, screws or splines.
The lines you drew act as glue lines now. Square assembly is crucial. Jorgenson bar clamps work best. I like to dry clamp a square scrap piece to the face and bottom to make sure that dries square. I'll try to upload a picture ofthis setup next time I build a set, which could be a while. It is a maze of clamps at this point!

9. Remove clamps, test fit the other side and top again. If happy, rip the top to final dimension and glue on the side/top. I leave the speaker on its side with a HEAVY weight on top to hold the side on, and clamp the speaker top.

10. When dry, test fit the face, cut the face to final dimensions, cut the holes. For the bottom slot port, I use a 1" bit to cut the curved sides, then cut across with a high quality jigsaw. Drill in a little from each side to reduce tearout. Round over the slot port.

11. Drill and install speaker wire. Seal with silicone. Use something lighter than lamp cord. Monster cables are not recommended at these power levels. Round the edges of and glue in the PVC port. Install carpet pad damping on inside of box.

12. Chamfer or round over the INSIDE of the speaker hole. Make sure to not remove material required by the speaker screws. Attach face. When dry, round over the right and left sides of the face with a router.

13. Insert tasty beverage.

14. Install speaker. Predrill holes slightly smaller dia than the screws.
I solder the wire to the speaker, leaving enough slack to remove it and set it on top of the speaker for tweaking. Solder connectors or tin ends of wire to connect to amp.

15. Test and tweak! Keep the screwdriver out of the cone!

16. Remove speaker and apply finish if required.




These are not the most efficient instructions, but are designed to ensure the greatest chance of success, especially since many won't be using professional grade equipment.
For quick prototyping, I use a finish nailer, and assemble in one shot, without clamps.

I love PL premium construction adhesive for speaker assembly. It is a no odor, polyurethane construction adhesive that comes in caulk tubes. It expands slightly, like Gorilla glue, but has a lot more body. I buy it at Menards, I don't know if it, or a similar product is available at your local home center or not.
Please let me know of any similar products you've found. So I can recommend them to others. Polyurethane is the key word here.


*I haven't tested these directions. There may be errors and omissions. Be safe! Please check down the thread for possible updates.

Pekar
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Old 29th November 2006, 04:50 PM   #20
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Thanks for the tips! These will be useful for any one of us noobs, whether we're building Delsols or not.
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