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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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I am wondering if anyone knows an alternate lower cost driver that would work well in the TL cabinet design that Neil kaye did such a nice job of building as detailed in the gallery pages and his web site.
http://web.mac.com/noteldov/iWeb/DIY...7951E0B11.html I want to build a cabinet design that will fit hidden inside a wall with the driver area only stepped out 1/2" to be flush with the finished gypsum wall. This TL design looks like it would fit nicely in the wall. I would have to adjust the vent opening out the front as well. The idea is to create what looks like a simple inwall speaker but in fact have the benefit of a TL design. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Your best best is a design for your chosen driver, not the other way round. The jordan has very unusual specifications making it hard to match. Many designs can be modified to fit into a wall. /sreten.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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The proposed driver is a FR125S. The shallowest cabinet design is what I am looking for . Sealed cabinet would be simplest to install if anyone knows of a design that has been proven.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Any design can be used, just keep the cross sectional area the same, or half it in the case of bipoles. http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html /sreten.
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#5 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...564#post528564 These could be cut in half (lengthways) and used for the FR125. FR125 also works well in sealed (10-14 litres) http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL...e-MLTL-map.gif dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tennessee
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In my work in designing, analyzing, and building a FR125S/WR125S bipolar ML-TL I do have a single driver ML-TL to describe. All dimensions are internal values:
Line length: 39.56" Driver centered 14" from top Port Located 37" from top Cross-sectional area: 21.75 sq. in. Stuffing density: 0.50 lb.-ft3 Port diameter: 2.125" Port length: 3" (50 Hz F3) to 4" (45 Hz F3) You can vary the port tube between 3" to 4" long depending on how low you wish to go for the 3 dB down point. This design models very flat and will sound great. Jim |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Dave, how about that WB 127 based folded quadratic taper design you did a little while ago? Should be ideal.
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#8 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
Personally I'd go for the WR125S + supertweeter. /sreten.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Port length by memory for the WB design above needs to be between 1in & 2in depending on taste, & using the FE127E. The CSS drivers should go in if you increase vent length to 3in.
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