tweaking the Fostex 206E

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Ron's design is indeed excellent by all the accounts I've heard. But it's a pig to build unless you're pretty good with the old table saw, and have a decent selection of tools. Either this or the 208ESigma cabinet would be my top choices of popularly available 'proper' BLH designs. For something a little different, the Bruce V1.1 BVR double horn should work rather nicely...

Blu-Tak? It's a removable, re-usable product usually used for, say, attaching posters or notes to the wall.
 
fergs1 said:

4. damp chassis(masses of blutack)

I used a product available from HVAC supply houses.

Might be cheaper, easier.

Product name

Sealastic -

sealing compound - stays soft permanently - used primarily for sealing refrigeration and airconditioning holes - to make airtight

Probably available under various names - the decades old brand in the US was Permagum -

good stuff
 
My BR cabient now sounds great, it wouldn't be possible without your help, thank you.

Butt I would like to try my fostex in horn cabinet, I'm too curious to see how it sounds.I start reading a lot great things about.So I'm searching this forum for projects. I don't need a horn that goes down to 20hz I need a "a rich and full bass" to 40hz, where music plays
 
Fostex FE208ESigma horn.

Bruce V1.1

Ron's Dallas II

All will thunder down to 40Hz or a bit lower. Just don't build the factory 206 horn cabinet. It could be worse, but the others are far better designs and will allow your drivers to show their full potential.

Warning: once you hear them in a decent horn, you'll never go back to reflex.
 
Any true horn action in the range of 40 hz is going to be HUGE!
The only way to realistically approach the problem is to depend on TL action for the lowest frequencies and blend in the horn action at a higher frequency.
With the proper application of K-horn theory you can smooth out the ripple somewhat, but at a loss in LF efficency (its all an average and somewhat of a trade off).
Proper designed horns will deliver a "fast " bass that if you havent heard will amaze you. They way outperform a BR simply due to the much greater BW and again if properly designed will require no BSC.
I perfer low Qts drivers as the speed makes for a very relistic sound reproduction and if you are going for a single driver FR system with a low Qts driver, then BLHs are the answer.
If you have a slightly higher Qts driver like the 207 or 167 then Martins or Bobs MLTL designs will perform well with a much simpler cab.

ron
 
Hi all
I am following this thread very closely as I have just built a MLTL cab for my 206 as per MJK's including the standard bsc + series resistors (currently set at 3.3 ohms, I welcome any comments on this value). Sounds ok but not great so I bought a couple of decware phase plugs and plan to do the surgery on the weekend. My question is would a blh cab negate the need for phase plugs.
 
testarossa2k said:
I don't need a horn that goes down to 20hz I need a "a rich and full bass" to 40hz, where music plays

Front horns have a lower acoustic cutoff relative to the size of the horn mouth.

My round Azurahorns are 38" in diameter.

They start cuttiing off around 120hz.

They're pretty much gone by 96 hz or so.

So I crossover to subs at that point

regards


Ken L
 
38 Hz with 98 dB

don´t forget one of the smallest horns for
8" driver the saxophon,

http://www.hm-moreart.de/104.htm

new technic:
membran movement interlacing and horn mouth distance

with measurements, who else have it?,
free download plan, with the cheap
BG20 from Visaton indirect and a front driver
like AN8" and Fostex 206E.

look and follow the red arrow.

google translate helps.
 

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Yes, I've heard the recommended 206 cabinet. Not impressed. Even less so when I decided afterward to run a few MathCad sims (I apply the same comments to the 166 BTW enclosure too. This cabinet type is not one of their best). The 208 box OTOH I heard recently at a friend's house, and came away very impressed indeed.
Maybe a bit OT but Scott, would the 166E's also be better in the 168E Sigma recommended BLH, as the 206 are in the 208 horn's as you suggest?

Steen:)
 
I could give you an answer, but I'd be lying. I don't know, but I'll try to have a look at some point over the next day or so. Possibly. In fact, I'd go so far as to say probably, but don't hold me to it. Although the 166 has about double the Vas of the 168, the Sigma cabinet has about 20% more volume, so I see no reason for it not to work.

I wasn't convinced about the Fostex Sigma horns for a long while -that mouth hanging in mid air bothered me. Having now heard the 208ESigma box, I can understand why it's there: there's a lot of QW action here and the power they produce in the LF is astonishing. With a low-positioned mouth it would be overpowering. I suspect the same applies to the 168 cab, to a somewhat lesser extent of course. I still reckon it's stretching a point to apply it to the 108 box though -bless it, it's not exactly a bass fiend!
 
incredible! today I was listening to my fe206e in BR cabinet and later I gone to swich off the sub but it was off:bigeyes:

I was listening to MTV dancefloorchart and joe satriani, so 2cds with good bass, that goes at least to 60/70hz. After the work I will recheck it, I hope it isn't an audio illusion in the the desert of my room:D

Anyway soon I'm going to build the horn. I read also poeple complaining about the mid/high, why? is there any small horn? first I want to try, and I don't want to spend a lot in wood
 
Hi there,

While it's clear that we should avoid the FE 206E horn enclosure and just build the one intended for FE208 sigma, now the question is:

How does the Fe206E horn (in Fe208 cabinet) compares to the BIB?

Anyone heard both?

Opinion welcomed.

Thanks

Vix
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Ken L said:
I used a product available from HVAC supply houses.

Might be cheaper, easier.

Product name

Sealastic -

sealing compound - stays soft permanently - used primarily for sealing refrigeration and airconditioning holes - to make airtight

Probably available under various names - the decades old brand in the US was Permagum -

Sure sounds like a variant of Duct-seal. I've been using it for close to 30 years now with good result.

dave
 
Sorry, maybe my question was a bit unclear. So, I wanted to know:

1. 208ESigma cab, or,

2. BIB

How do they comapare against each other? I gues they both sound astonishing. In case someone had a chance to listen to them, and compare...

Sure, a BIB is easier to build, but does it have any sonical advantage over a horn, or just remains as an option for those who find that a horn is difficult to build?

thanks
 
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